Removing exhaust

[74Nitro]

I just use the Yamaha bolts for the header flanges on the Apex/Nytro. Flanged and take a 10mm wrench. I use two of them and stick with the stock remaining four that are easy to access with the torx.
I find that the holes in the turbo are not tapped very well from the factory. Sometimes difficult to remove the bolts on an almost new machine.

 

[jonlafon1]

Got some and was doing some bench testing to compare. Im second guessing using stainless hardware. Put in vice to see what they would handle and was snapping heads off. Based on my research they are not even designed to handle the recomended torque spec.
Main concern is if one does seize, will not be able to apply any force to remove.

In comparison. Did same testing with factory bolt and it did much better and actually pulled threads out of nut and did not snap

Probably overthinking but going to stick with oem or someing comparable.

If your not comfortable with something don’t use them. I understand completely. I run light torque with them and had no issues. But I understand your point and others that feel they are not AS strong as stock ones.

 

[no1b4me]

.... If your insistent on using stainless steel fasteners do not use any hardware store grade. Normally they offer a grade 5 equivalent strength hardware. ARP manufacturers stainless steel fasteners with a tensile strength 170K psi which is slightly stronger than a traditional grade 8 carbon fastener,which I recommend if stainless is your needed comfort fix. Remember as well to use nickel anti seize and only coat the threads that will be used to load, avoid lubrication under the contact head, be aware that fastener lubrication will have torque reduction requirement. Lubrication can add up to 45 to 55% torque reduction to the axial load on the fastener, hence many people do not consider this and either have a failure or compromise integrity due to over torque limits of the material specification. Follow the OEM spec of initial torque of 9ft.lbs then final torque to 18 ft. lbs in a criss-cross pattern. The other less costly option is a standard 10.9 grade carbon steel hex head exhaust manifold fastener which will provide basically the same performance without the bling factor.... At a significantly lower cost.
ARP 771-1001(stainless)
Dorman 03413 (carbon)(will have to be easily cut to length size)
Cheers

 

[WarriorDan]

.... If your insistent on using stainless steel fasteners do not use any hardware store grade. Normally they offer a grade 5 equivalent strength hardware. ARP manufacturers stainless steel fasteners with a tensile strength 170K psi which is slightly stronger than a traditional grade 8 carbon fastener,which I recommend if stainless is your needed comfort fix. Remember as well to use nickel anti seize and only coat the threads that will be used to load, avoid lubrication under the contact head, be aware that fastener lubrication will have torque reduction requirement. Lubrication can add up to 45 to 55% torque reduction to the axial load on the fastener, hence many people do not consider this and either have a failure or compromise integrity due to over torque limits of the material specification. Follow the OEM spec of initial torque of 9ft.lbs then final torque to 18 ft. lbs in a criss-cross pattern. The other less costly option is a standard 10.9 grade carbon steel hex head exhaust manifold fastener which will provide basically the same performance without the bling factor.... At a significantly lower cost.
ARP 771-1001(stainless)
Dorman 03413 (carbon)
Cheers

Great info, thanks. One question, if you use the Dorman bolts would you still use the nickel anti seize?

 

[no1b4me]

Great info, thanks. One question, if you use the Dorman bolts would you still use the nickel anti seize?

Yes, use nickel grade anti seize even with the Dorman hardware or in any high heat exhaust application.
Cheers