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Removing exhaust

dude...drill it and heat that f*cker up with mapp gas and use an ez outmost big box stores have them....if you use the old z1 gasket with rtv copper you have a chance.....but they leak sometimes even with all the bolts...so ...
dude...drill it and heat that f*cker up with mapp gas and use an ez outmost big box stores have them....if you use the old z1 gasket with rtv copper you have a chance.....but they leak sometimes even with all the bolts...so ...
I did drill it, broke the bit in it, told dealer the issue I had, Yamaha wanted to inspect the sled....

Just ordered a rescue bit to drill it out. I'll get it, not worried after talking to "The Original Rescue Bit" people. Fantastic to deal with. A positive experience.
 

You could just drill it out and replace it with a bolt and lock washer and nut. I read in one of Td exhaust threads that 5 bolts were more then enough if the middle hard to get at bolt was a problem with some exhausts.


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Does anyone have the length of the exhaust bolts? I'm going to try and replace them this weekend and the sled is not near a hardware store. I went to pick some up and they had a lot of different M8 x 1.25 grade 8 bolts to choose from. Also just regular lock washers work? Thanks in advance.
 
Does anyone have the length of the exhaust bolts? I'm going to try and replace them this weekend and the sled is not near a hardware store. I went to pick some up and they had a lot of different M8 x 1.25 grade 8 bolts to choose from. Also just regular lock washers work? Thanks in advance.

22mm in length.

Use a stainless bolt, grade 8 means nothing as it's not a strength issue, it's the material it's made out of.
 
I removed my exhaust today and all six bolts came out very easy. I only have a few miles on it so that probably explains why they came out so easy. I think I'm going to change out the bolts but was wondering about drilling out the threads and putting bolts and nuts on instead. I think this can be done on 4 of the six bolts.
 
My bolts came off very easy but my 8x1.25 hex heads don't seem to fit. Has anybody else found this?
I would bring the original bolts with you and check to see if the nuts that size will fit. I guess you can run a tap through the holes on the turbo and then try the new bolts.
 
My bolts came off very easy but my 8x1.25 hex heads don't seem to fit. Has anybody else found this?
I've been using the stock bolts, I've had them on and off about 6 to 7 times now and they work perfectly.... Just food for thought
 
after doing mine, i just want to stress what has been said, if you haven't done this, DO IT! easy to see you WILL regret not doing it sooner if you wait. even if just to never seize them if nothing else. thank you for the heads up to all.
 
after doing mine, i just want to stress what has been said, if you haven't done this, DO IT! easy to see you WILL regret not doing it sooner if you wait. even if just to never seize them if nothing else. thank you for the heads up to all.
Did you replace yours with regular bolts?
 
I put never seize on the stock bolts one time.It was gone the next time i took it apart the copper stuff as well...
 
Did you replace yours with regular bolts?
yes, i sent the wife to the parts store with the torx bolt and she brought back 8.8 & 10.9. put the 10.9 on, alloy steel, quenched and tempered. Cap Screw Flanged Hex Head Class 10.9 M8 1.25 x 20Mm Dorman 875-420
 
I would bring the original bolts with you and check to see if the nuts that size will fit. I guess you can run a tap through the holes on the turbo and then try the new bolts.
Thank you. I of had the bolts with me and they seemed like different threads. I tried the 1.25 pitch when I got home and the hex heads are installed with anti-sieze and Nord locks. Silly to have those T50s behind that pipe like that.
 


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