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Reverse light flashes, but does try and shift into reverse

phazerwill

Lifetime Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2006
Messages
78
Location
Dekalb, IL / Presque Isle WI
My phazer is 300 miles away, I think my engine rpm may be set to high. Anything else to check next if that is not it. I had the complete reverse gearbox out, checked everything, replaced both sensors and by using 12 volts directly was able to shift the servo motor for forward and reverse, all worked fine(thanks to previous posters on how to test). I know it does not even try and shift, when I am able to hit throttle with track of ground, the engine cancels out but a breif engagement the drive is still in forward as the track spins forward. Rocking back and forth and secondary clutch shim is not it. Any other thought would be helpful. Thanks will
 

Can you explain exactly the sequence of what it does when you push the reverse button? Does it engage in reverse at all?
 
I push the reverse button and the r light starts flashing, I don't believe it even tries to shift into reverse, but I did not probe wires at servo to see if voltage is going to them. How ever in order to to get back into drive mode I have to turn the key off( it will not go back into drive when pushing the d button while engine is running). It then starts back out In drive fine again.
 
More than likely, the idle is too high to allow the reverse to engage. I think the manual even says to wait until the idle drops. Your servo is probably fine if it works at other times. The reverse on these sleds is finicky at the best of times so being at a fast idle doesn't help.
 
If rocking it back and forth doesn't work, try lifting the rear of the sled off the ground. Worked on my '07 Phazer 100% of the time.
 
If rocking it back and forth doesn't work, try lifting the rear of the sled off the ground. Worked on my '07 Phazer 100% of the time.

I second that opinion.... the high idle could be to blame as well, does it do it once sled is fully warmed up and idled down?
 
Try squeezing the throttle partially then while holding it turn key on. With key in run still, release throttle and start. Works on the wife's every time.
 
Damn, I figured it out after looking at wiring diagram and troubleshooting in service manual , The 4 amp fuse was blown (it is in the smaller fuse box). There is also 3 relays in the system. Yamaha sure made what should be simple, complex!!!
 
I second that opinion.... the high idle could be to blame as well, does it do it once sled is fully warmed up and idled down?
I'll 3rd this one. Same prob on my 07 until the update was done. Don't ask, I'm not sure, thicker washer or something. My 14 used to do it as well, brought the idle down a couple hundred and it's flawless now.
 
I tried the update, which is an extra secondary shim and updated belt, which is narrower and possibly shorter, so it winds up lower in the secondary sheaves. Was actually worse for me. Leaving the shim in place, I put the original belt back and it shifts 90% of the time. Out the 10% left, 9% it will shift by rocking it back and forth and 1% I have to get off and lift the rear.

Before that, I found it helped to adjust the chain on the loose side. Manual calls the chain adjustment to be finger tight and then back off 1/4 turn. By loose, I mean instead of "finger tight", which is very subjective, I adjust it until I feel just a little resistance on the bolt and then back off 1/4 turn.

And then there is the "push the button and NOTHING happens", as if the button didn't work. No flashing light, no beeping, nothing at all. A few have talked about this particular issue here. My MP is the only one of our three sleds that is affected by that one. The only fix for this one is to turn off the sled and restart. I thought it could be an electrical load issue when the fan was running, nope. Then just as recently as last year, tried pushing the reset button on the gauge pod and it then worked. But it could have been a coincidence because just when I took it out of storage, it did it, tried the reset button, no go. It could be an issue with the ECU so I might try swapping it with one of the Phazer's to isolate that.
 


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