mikeRX
Extreme
Is it worth the money to just take it to the dealer to diagnose? Sounds like it could be anything from bad rings to crankcase valves to carbs ect. ect. I will try to get my hands on a compression tester and start from there. Sleds are fun.......
low slung
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The most fun thing on the planet,period.
mikeRX
Extreme
It probably would have been cheaper for me to just leave it in the bush the last time it broke down!!!!
vx700xtc
Expert
Just ride it.
mikeRX
Extreme
Ok. I just did a compression test (because I don't know what a leak down test is!) and the results are from clutch side 125, 125, 130 and 135. Back at the beginning I heard it was to be between 179 to 206. I let it warm up for about 10 mins before I did the test. So whats the bad news???
Bob Miller
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mikeRX said:Ok. I just did a compression test (because I don't know what a leak down test is!) and the results are from clutch side 125, 125, 130 and 135. Back at the beginning I heard it was to be between 179 to 206. I let it warm up for about 10 mins before I did the test. So whats the bad news???
I believe you have to hold the throttle wide open while doing the test
mikeRX
Extreme
I kept turning it over until it wouldn't get any more pressure. Why do you need to hold the throttle open????
Bob Miller
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mikeRX said:I kept turning it over until it wouldn't get any more pressure. Why do you need to hold the throttle open????
This is off the Valvoline website:
Testing Day
There are some general guidelines to follow when running a compression test on a four-stroke gasoline engine. Rotary, two stroke, diesel, and other types of engines require a different procedure. It's always a good bet to follow testing steps recommended in a service manual before drawing any conclusions based on test results. The service manual will also have compression service limit numbers.
Make certain the battery is in good shape, as it will have to spin the engine quite a few times. Warm up the engine. The reason for this is that heat makes all the metal parts inside the cylinder expand and seal up better. Having things warmed up will give a more accurate compression reading. A cold engine will give inaccurate compression readings. Stop the engine, and remove all the spark plugs. This way the starter can spin the engine freely. Disable the ignition system by either pulling the coil wire, or disabling the ignition coil. To perform the actual test, insert the compression tester into one of the spark plug holes and crank the starter to rotate the engine in order to build compression in that cylinder. There may also be other required steps, such as disabling the fuel system or . holding the throttle open.Record the compression number for that cylinder. Move onto the next cylinder until numbers have been recorded for each cylinder. Once all the numbers have been recorded they can be compared, and an overall conclusion can be drawn.
Even Burning
In a perfect world, the parts inside an engine all wear out together at the same rate. In every other world, this rarely happens. If your car or truck is using or burning a great deal of oil, has lost power, or is just plain running poorly despite a tune-up or other mechanical measures, a compression test is a good way to check what's going on inside the engine without taking it apart. Keep in mind that the numbers will mean nothing unless they are referenced against manufacturer recommendations found in a service manual. The thing to look for in a compression check is even numbers. If all the cylinders check out within 10 or so PSI of each other, and those numbers sync up with the factory specifications, then you're good to go.
If one or more of the cylinders show a difference of 15 or more PSI, then there are problems inside. If one cylinder shows a low reading, remove the compression tester and squirt a small amount of motor oil inside and test again. If the second test reveals a higher reading, then worn piston rings or cylinder walls may be the culprits. If the reading stays the same then suspect worn valves or valve seats. If the gauge shows a very low or no reading on any one or more of the cylinders, then serious internal damage has occurred. Any time a low compression reading is indicated on one or more cylinders, the time is right for engine work. There are a few tips to determining what these problems are, but keep in mind these are very general guidelines. The key point here is that an engine with low sealing compression in one or more cylinders will never run right—no matter how many new parts are connected to it.
mikeRX
Extreme
Is there anywhere on this site that explains how to do a leakdown test? Or is that something the dealer needs to do?
SnoWarrior
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Just GOOGLE Leak down test, or leak down tester. It will tell you everything you want to know.
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