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RX1 BENDER TURBO HELP

The billet T's are must have items, if you don't have them go get them. The same goes for the Carb caps, get the STM billet ones they won't ever leak on you.
 

have sled all together installed boost guage,and water temp guage,let sled run up to 125 degrees and tried running it on the grass.Sled goes about 20 to 30 foot and starts spudering im not seing any boost on the guage seem when it starts to make boost it wants to die out, possible over fueling.Is there supposed to be a restricter in the line going to the carb from the pitot tube or what could be causing this issue.One more thing is there a restricter going to the turbo for the oil line im getting oil out my exhaust.The oil is only coming out turbo exhaust not out of sled exhaust, sled exhaust is dry. thanks ken
 
Ken,
There is an oil restricter in the oil feed line already from Bender. It's actually a small hex main jet inside the rubber coupler that is up on the left side of the gas tank connecting the two steel lines together (should have 3 clamps on it, the middle clamps the jet inside the hose).
Make sure your electric oil scavenge pump is returning oil, disconnect it's return hose at the oil tank and make sure it's spitting oil out when the engine is running. If not, that is why your turbo is pushing oil.

Like the guys mentioned ont he previous page, the plastic T's in between the carbs are prone to leaking. The key to making these turbo kits work with the CV carbs is nothing can leak pressure. If the float bowls aren't seeing a strong boost signal because something is leaking then they will be lean because the boost in the carb blows the fuel back down the jets the wrong way...
Carburetors work on pressure differential, the pressure in the float bowl needs to be greater then the pressure in the throats so the fuel flows from the bowls up the needle jet, etc. (high to low...)

The other possibility is you are bleeding off too much pressure at the pitot tube. What main jet size do you have in the bottom of the pitot tube? The pitot jet...
 
thanks guys where can i get the billet t s .if im understanding there is a jet in the pilot tube ,or is it in the bottom of the charge tube the one in the bottom of the charge tube is a 400.
 
1000 KEN said:
thanks guys where can i get the billet t s .if im understanding there is a jet in the pilot tube ,or is it in the bottom of the charge tube the one in the bottom of the charge tube is a 400.
TY sponsor Ted Jannetty at Turbo Addiction Parts...

yes, that is where the pitot jet is. OK, it should run with a 400 jet. The bigger the jet orface, the leaner the AFR because it allows more boost bleed off... less pressure at the float bowls.

Before you go the billet T route just yet, two more things to check.
What spark plugs do you have in the machine? Are they new?
I'd suggest running brand new stock 9's gapped at 0.018".

Try that, if it's a spark misfire under load / boost.

Next is you need to check the whole charge side for air leaks. Easy and quick way to do this is grab a Shop-Vac, hook the hose to the discharge side so the air is blowing out...
Remove the air filter off the turbo and duct tape the end of the hose to it. Put tape over the pitot jet, turn the Shop-Vac on and pressurize the charge side of your turbo system.
Take a spray bottle of windex, etc and spray around every friggin fitting and hose joint on the intake side of the sled... around the carbs, the T's, the boots for the intercooler airbox, the carb boots at the cylinder head, the pitot tube, etc.

Fix any bubbles!

report back...
 
i will try that and get back with my finding.Sorry we installed brand new 9 and there gapped around 28
 
Heck, just try re-gapping the plugs first then...
 
You'll never get it to run right without either gluing the tees or putting in the billet tees. Also like I said earlier a good air/fuel gauge is a must to figure out fueling problems. You can either do it right and ride it or do it half a$$Ed and let it sit on the trailer like I use to do.

Ken....
 
will a exhaust leak up front mess with anything sound s like i have a exhaust leak at motor now, wouldnt think it will effect getting this thing to run right working on list of thing that im checking get back with out come.
 
ONE THING I DID NOTICE WAS WHEN I BLOW IN THE LINE FROM THE INNERCOOLER TO THE CARB ALL FOUR SLIDES DONOT OPEN EVENLY TWO GO UP BEFORE THE OTHER TWO NOT SURE IF THIS IS CORRECT BUT DUE TO THE T VERSE THE ELBOW I THINK THIS IS CORRECT BECAUSE THE ELBOW IS GOING TO PRESSURIZE BEFORE THE T WILL BUT ALL FORE DO GO UP. IS THIS A PROBLEM?
 
Post a pic of your piping at the carbs. If I remember correctly there was a problem with the piping going to the slides.

How is the hose setup for the slides?
 
You definitely want to use two hoses, one to each pair of carbs. Easiest to add another to bottom of intercooler for this season.

One of the guys on here several years ago suggested the shorter the hoses the better.Thats why I put mine on top. Seems more responsive with the shorter hoses. Also the Bender set up had some mid range lean problems. Shorter hoses helped.

But the 2 hoses will be much better than one, no matter where you put them.
 

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BigDog - X2

1000 KEN is BigDog's setup different from yours, if yes copy his setup.

MCX and Powder Lites IC's use the stock black hoses, turned them forward and hooked them onto the barbs coming from the IC.
 


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