SD26 on BTX

NorthernRider

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Yamaha Sidewinder BTX Se
Hi, was searching the forum but can’t seem to find the answer any where and I’m scratching my head. I have a 18 BTX that was randomly throwing code SD26 last season. It would reset after the ignition was turned off. I figured was a boost leak thanks to this forum so I tightened all the hose clamps. Flashed maybe once after that. Now this season after riding for a week the SD26 code is on solid it won’t reset even if disconnect battery. I have tightened all the clamps, checked turbo bolts, pulled all sensors brought them in to warm up, checked sensor vacuum line routing, cleaned all charge tubes, even pressure tested the system after tightening everything. It will hold about 16-17 psi before BOV goes. Sled is running great and feels like there is tons of power. I just can’t get the code off tho. Any one have any ideas? The sled is bone stock with 1100km.
 
Long shot but pull the power red battery lead off battery and ground out that lead to the negative on battery for 30 seconds. Try it with the key in the off and on position. If your not sure what I’m saying or unsure don’t do it. It’s just a simple way to pull any remaining power out of the system To ground.
 
Sled pulls good on hard pull? Doesn’t fall when code comes on? Code is on all the time and sled runs great?
 
Pulls great, Hang on tight pulls. Had it up to 160kph yesterday very quickly with no issue even tho code was present on dash. Last season it flashed Sd26 on WOT runs and would reset when turned off sled after tightening clamps never came back apart for maybe one lake run. Last week it came on and now is staying on but runs same as it did last season.
 
Pulls great, Hang on tight pulls. Had it up to 160kph yesterday very quickly with no issue even tho code was present on dash. Last season it flashed Sd26 on WOT runs and would reset when turned off sled after tightening clamps never came back apart for maybe one lake run. Last week it came on and now is staying on but runs same as it did last season.
Try what I posted above if you understand what I’m saying to do.
 
I find it strange that the code is active and present and the sled hold psi and pulls hard with no hesitations.
 
So I turned sled on brought up to operating temp code was present. I turned it off and put red battery lead to negative on battery with the key on and off for about 30 seconds in each key position. Restarted sled code was gone but came back on within about 1 min. I find it very strange. I have been reading a lot of forums chasing this problem. I’m beginning to wondering if it’s a sensor or solenoid but don’t wanna just guess and replace them.
 
So I turned sled on brought up to operating temp code was present. I turned it off and put red battery lead to negative on battery with the key on and off for about 30 seconds in each key position. Restarted sled code was gone but came back on within about 1 min. I find it very strange. I have been reading a lot of forums chasing this problem. I’m beginning to wondering if it’s a sensor or solenoid but don’t wanna just guess and replace them.
Yes strange. So the battery trick did pull code off. But back on. Don’t know on your situation. Very strange it still runs great. Mine was a loose clamp coming from turbo. Right side while looking at turbo in front of sled.
 
Yes strange. So the battery trick did pull code off. But back on. Don’t know on your situation. Very strange it still runs great. Mine was a loose clamp coming from turbo. Right side while looking at turbo in front of sled.
Yup got that one. Changed it to be safe. I don’t ride with any one that has a winder to compare my sled to but mine feels the same as the ones I test rode on the demo day before I purchased mine.
 
What I found is the code would come on when really hammering it. And then the sled would fall or cut out with code flashing. But mine NEVER stayed on the whole time. You might have a bad sensor? Not sure bud but a code that stays on is a active code and usually is a possible failure of a sensor? Or something is wrong with a obvious thing. No holes or cuts in the rubber charge tubes? It’s weird that is holds pressure when testing
 
What I found is the code would come on when really hammering it. And then the sled would fall or cut out with code flashing. But mine NEVER stayed on the whole time. You might have a bad sensor? Not sure bud but a code that stays on is a active code and usually is a possible failure of a sensor? Or something is wrong with a obvious thing. No holes or cuts in the rubber charge tubes? It’s weird that is holds pressure when testing
Ya it’s why I built the pressure tester I was sure I had a hole or leak some where but did test several times and it held for all them. The code last season would have the engine cut out briefly. So I know what it feels like. It won’t do it this season even tho the code is permanently on the dash. I’m anal about my stuff and this code is keeping me up at night lol.
 
Ya it’s why I built the pressure tester I was sure I had a hole or leak some where but did test several times and it held for all them. The code last season would have the engine cut out briefly. So I know what it feels like. It won’t do it this season even tho the code is permanently on the dash. I’m anal about my stuff and this code is keeping me up at night lol.
Well I hope you find it. Sounds like you have eliminated many things. If a sensor is throwing this code which it surely seems it is. You may be able to test it with a electric meter/ohms tester? Ask me how I know? Lol just had a crank sensor failure at 7500 miles on mine. It tested at 10,000 ohms! Suppose to be around 500. I do not have the shop manual but maybe it’s in that? Bad wire connector somewhere that the sensor is wiring into? Let us know what you find.
 
Next question any one know where find the info to test the boost sensor and the related solenoids or a shop manual?
 


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