SD26

[lakercr]

One of the guys I ride with is getting a persistent SD26 code when he tries to do a WOT pull. I've read through all the prior posts on this, and we've double-checked all clamps, pulled/cleaned all lines going to MAP sensor, boost solenoid etc. Pulled the IC and cleaned it, checked throttle body clamps, cleaned out intake plenum and the problem persists.

Has anyone got a suggestion that we haven't covered yet? On a related note: every winder in our group will be getting a ROV delete this week. Can't believe the mess in there.

 

[DranttelSS]

Stock or flashed? Does it have a boost gauge to verify its making boost?

Did you check the condition of the charge tubes? Seen factory ones split.

 

[BlueByYou2000]

Jim, Eddie had one in the shop that had same issue. It turned out to be a bad sensor. Chased his tail with all that stuff you did and would still throw the code. Once sensor was changed, it still had the code until you ride it for a few minutes and give it some full throtle pulls. It wont clear until you load the motor.

 

[lakercr]

Stock or flashed? Does it have a boost gauge to verify its making boost?

Did you check the condition of the charge tubes? Seen factory ones split.

Thanks, tubes are good - it's making boost.

 

[lakercr]

Sled has a 240 flash with a Heartbreaker exhaust.

 

[lakercr]

Jim, Eddie had one in the shop that had same issue. It turned out to be a bad sensor. Chased his tail with all that stuff you did and would still throw the code. Once sensor was changed, it still had the code until you ride it for a few minutes and give it some full throtle pulls. It wont clear until you load the motor.

Thanks Matt. Which one did he swap out?

 

[Mileage Quest]

My buddy’s was doing this... it was a wire rub through under the fuse box... Good luck!!!

 

[jonlafon1]

I had this and thought I was tight on all clamps but I actually replaced the cheap narrow stock clamps. Little wider clamp. I found the boost leak to be coming from the turbo. If you standing in front of sled right hand side of turbo. The clamps are slightly narrow. I cranked that one down and still had it I finally stripped it out and put a wider one one and never saw sd26 again. I know it been said by many but those clamps are junk.

 

[sledding rocks]

Sled has a 240 flash with a Heartbreaker exhaust.

how much boost u making with the 240 flash ? had the same problem the sled was over boosting at 17 psi on a 240 tune , contact Dave he can help u out

 

[lakercr]

I had this and thought I was tight on all clamps but I actually replaced the cheap narrow stock clamps. Little wider clamp. I found the boost leak to be coming from the turbo. If you standing in front of sled right hand side of turbo. The clamps are slightly narrow. I cranked that one down and still had it I finally stripped it out and put a wider one one and never saw sd26 again. I know it been said by many but those clamps are junk.

Thanks, Sandale has a nice set of constant tension clamps for the sled. I'll call Mike and get them ordered up.

 

[Doug Heald]

Repair the wire under fuse box, then take a self stick foam pad and stick it on under the wires and put fuse box back in it should keep that from happening again.

 

[BlueByYou2000]

Thanks Matt. Which one did he swap out?

Boost sensor. Its the one by the fuse box that has a hose attached

 

[lakercr]

So I talked to my Service Manager (who is a champ, btw) and he did a little homework for me. Yamaha has suggested that the line from the back of the airbox be disconnected, then cap off the airbox nipple. leave the other end of the line connected to the WGV solenoid; let it hang down and secure it with a tie. Apparently being connected the way it is (stock) can give false readings and is not needed.

The sled is 1.5hrs away from me, but the owner has this info now and will report back once he's tested/confirmed.

Stay tuned I guess.

.

 

[1CoolZ71]

Dealer just fixed my Cat with the P1236 code which is the same as Yamaha SD26.
He found the large hose off the turbo had a loose fit on the turbo side.
Cheap clamps couldn't pull tight enough to seal it up.
He cut off the hose a little shorter to get a tighter fit and used a stronger clamp...Code gone!!

 

[rock doc]

So I talked to my Service Manager (who is a champ, btw) and he did a little homework for me. Yamaha has suggested that the line from the back of the airbox be disconnected, then cap off the airbox nipple. leave the other end of the line connected to the WGV solenoid; let it hang down and secure it with a tie. Apparently being connected the way it is (stock) can give false readings and is not needed.

The sled is 1.5hrs away from me, but the owner has this info now and will report back once he's tested/confirmed.

Stay tuned I guess.

.View attachment 146251

I coded today with a stage 3 precision tune. First time I was able to really stretch the legs on the machine since it was tuned and it cuts power at around 95mph in loose conditions . How did you make out unhooking the sensor?

I have other things to check 1st but this was an interesting post and would be easy to try tomorrow while on the trails. I also have the jaws/precision.