Secondary Change Advantages?

Ruggybuggy

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Kenora, NWOnt, Canada
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Snowmobile
2007 Phazer FX 144
So what's the advantage in both the performance and maintenance of switching out the secondary to a older Vmax 500-600? I found a few secondary Viper 600 secondarys for fairly cheap but what helix and spring do you use? I've already order Ulmers clutch kit. The last sled I had was a Crossfire 7 with mods and by comparison the Phazer Secondary looks archaic.

Old Sled

Crossfire

New Sled

CIMG2271.JPG
 
I have a clutch off of a 4 stroke vector, took some machining. Same clutch as a rx1 or Apex.

The stock phazer clutch has a week spot where if the c clip breaks the clutch is done.

The other style is held on by 3 nuts and is much more reliable.
 
X2 really only reason I changed mine. Reliability because of that stupid clip.
 
Also, if the clip goes it will probably dig into the jackshaft bearing.
 
So Vector, RX1 or Apex and machine. What material did you have to remove to get it to work. Also read something about a bushing that needs to be purchased. Did you use the Vectors helix and spring or did you have to buy something?

Thanks for the replies.
 
The spline on the inside needed to be shortneded. UPBushman has a step by step and just follow his instructions and everything will fit perfectly. All aligned perfectly.

I'm running stock vector GT helix and spring art to 3-3 if I remember right.
 
So I found a 2009 Vector clutch for $75 on fleebay. So all is required is to have the spline inside cut back 1.25 so that the clutch can slide all the way onto the jackshaft using the existing spacer. How do you check clutch alignment or does this result in the correct alignment? Then get a spacer from an Apex and cut it down. Will the mounting bolt for the Vector work and spacer from the Vector work?
 
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=101732

follow his instructions and you're good to go, there are even the part numbers for the spacer to you need, he made a great step by step.

Buy a 14mm x 1.50 pitch x 40mm bolt and you're good to go using one of the stock phazer washers.

Just a heads up though that not all shops will be able to do the work for you. I tried one and he said the metal was too hard for his tools I needed to find a show with the right equipment.
 
Thanks for the reply I have a buddy that has his own lath and he thinks he can do it so zero cost in machining.
 
The secondary is also easier to work on and adjust without the silly clip to deal with every time. And I believe it is also more adjustable than the old style
 
So my clutch came in today and it's in very good shape. For those that have the new style clutch, how did your reverse work after installing? I've had an issue that sometimes when I put it in reverse it doesn't engage and I have to rock the sled side to side then it works. I've head the fix was to install a shim in the secondary to give a little more clearance between the sheaths. So how does the new clutch work for most? Did it fix or worsen any reverse issues?
 
I HAD to use the newer secondary on my turbo Phazer as the original just won't cut it. Anybody with boosted Phazer, use Nytro weights in primary and put on Mountain Max secondary and you are set!
 
Can you still run the stock belt with a different secondary? If not, what belt do you use?
 
Ruggybuggy said:
So my clutch came in today and it's in very good shape. For those that have the new style clutch, how did your reverse work after installing? I've had an issue that sometimes when I put it in reverse it doesn't engage and I have to rock the sled side to side then it works. I've head the fix was to install a shim in the secondary to give a little more clearance between the sheaths. So how does the new clutch work for most? Did it fix or worsen any reverse issues?
It certainly didn't make the reverse any worse with the secondary change - I'd say maybe a little better but it is hard to judge.
 


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