• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Sidewinder with Electrical gremlin

Blownhard

Veteran
Joined
Mar 20, 2017
Messages
48
Location
Niagara Falls
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
Nytro xtx
Sidewinder ltx-le
2019 Winder ltx-le blew main fuse while out riding lost power on everything. Reinstalled a new 30 amp fuse and reassembled Sled turn the key on and within two seconds blew that one as well.
After running a few diagnostic tests the voltage regulator was found to be faulty changed it and everything seem to be fine. Next right out proximately 10 miles out The ignition fuse 15 amp let’s go try to install a new 15 amp fuse key off reassemble Sled turn Key On and it blows. Trailer the Sled back to the shop and needed more fuses so Sled had time to cool down ran out picked up new 15 amp fuses and installed them and to my surprise it started and is running but I’ve lost confidence for now. Retested voltage regulator as well as stator But unsure of stator values for a 2019 winder ltx-le. As a sidenote I’ve checked on the fuse box and most of the wiring harness with no apparent short the grounds. Any help would be appreciated
 

 
The stator readings on a winder should be between .2 and .24 ohms. Many multimeters will have problems with values that low so make sure you using a decent multimeter.

PSA: If you have a 23 winder without EPS there is most likely a spare 30amp fuse above the main relay. It is for the EPS normally but someone at Yamaha seems to be populating the fuse holder even when there is no EPS available. Think of it as a spare main... not the 'why did I opt out of EPS' reminder. :)

324951668_1210906993167108_3614201197957064504_n.jpg
 
Check to make sure your wires below the fuse box aren't rubbing. It's a common problem. Sounds like you did this already.
 
Thanks guys for all the help as I continue to diagnose this issue, the metre I’m using is a fluke 179 and I’m getting .3 value the shop has an interior temperature of under 60
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys for all the help as I continue to diagnose this issue, the metre I’m using is a fluke 179 and I’m getting .3 value the shop has an interior temperature of under 60 may be the reason.
I disconnected the battery negative and hook the metre in line and to my surprise I was Pulling 10.5V.
To reduce this value I started pulling out the relays noting shift reverse dropped the voltage drain to near 0 discharge. This is really throwing me off.

10.5v? (not amps? from the way you described the connection is sounds like you are measuring current) Had a quick look at the schematic. The relays are designed as a simple logic gate to allow the ECU to flip the two wire circuit between forward and reverse. It appears that the ECU simply supplies ground to the relay it wants to deactivate, the power to the coil is from the shared 12v bus. The relays are wired NC by default and the ECU supplies the logic (pin 85) for which way current should flow by supplying ground, pulling the relay to ground (pin 87a) The motor itself is what controls current draw as it hits an internal limit switch and disengages for either direction.

Physical layout of the shift relays although I believe the relays are upside down relative to this drawing.
1674676947125.png

Schematic layout from yamaha. 85->86 should only be energized if the appropriate shifting mode is NOT- enabled (FWD/REV), the logic is opposite (ground means off).

I believe the machine comes up with the shift reverse relay (closed 30->87a) allowing it to act as ground for the motor while shift forward is in its default state (NC 30-87). When you select reverse the relays energize opposite (fwd closed, rev open) which allows the circuit to flip directions. Hope this helps.

1674676967347.png


Does reverse work?
 
Make sure the inside of your power plug on the dash hasn't come apart too. Had this happen once but it only blew the dash and rear brake light fuse
 
Yes reverse works
I’m stumped lol.
What start it off as blowing my main fuse 30 amp from there found a voltage regulator had issues change that out replace the 30 amp fuse and I was good. Next outing 10 minutes into the ride it blew the ignition fuse 15 apmp blew the spare as soon as I put it in.
A few hours later Sled cool down replace the 15 amp fuse and it started right up and has ran ever since. Voltage regulator test fine stator Tess fine and no short to ground on the stator with no visible short to ground on wiring harness.
Disconnected negative battery terminal in and put tester in line in which shows voltage is this not considered to be a short?
 
Look in from above the primary clutch at the front left engine mount, frame portion. Had one just recently wear through.
 
Yes reverse works
I’m stumped lol.
What start it off as blowing my main fuse 30 amp from there found a voltage regulator had issues change that out replace the 30 amp fuse and I was good. Next outing 10 minutes into the ride it blew the ignition fuse 15 apmp blew the spare as soon as I put it in.
A few hours later Sled cool down replace the 15 amp fuse and it started right up and has ran ever since. Voltage regulator test fine stator Tess fine and no short to ground on the stator with no visible short to ground on wiring harness.
Disconnected negative battery terminal in and put tester in line in which shows voltage is this not considered to be a short?

Not sure what you were testing. Between negative terminal and what, and the negative battery cable?

Battery Negative -> Multimeter-> Battery Cable

like that?
 
I’ve removed all the harness up to the handlebars with no visible signs of damage
 


Back
Top