Ski glides installed!!!

[yzf1999]

This is what I've came up with so far...haven't done a test run thru with the sled yet so there still might be some fine tuning. Also need to install more traction matts.

 

[moab11]

looks good, just be VERY careful walking on the ramp in the winter. Those standard glides are slipperier than polished ice! Especially with how much you have, be sure to only walk on the traction mat.

Also, on the rear ramp, I'm thinking that your ski's may be running on the middle traction mats, could just be the pic though.

 

[yzf1999]

Yeah I know those ski glides get real slick when wet...if you notice the end of the trailer to the back door the glides turn out a couple inches and that still put the glides 42" on center...but if their off a little ill move them over a bit.

 

[yamadoo]

Looks great

 

[kinger]

How much was all that? I'm shocked at how high priced the glides are. I have a new 28' enclosed and looking at a $500+ bill for simple guides.

 

[yzf1999]

I probably got $500 in everything...I agree to set up the interior of the trailer is stupid expensive. I still got $250 more to spend on track matts

 

[DSimps10]

i have always thought about doing this when i get a bigger trailer, i would probably go the the junkyard and take bed liners to cut up for ski guides, not as clean looking but i use them for my truck and they work great for super cheap.

 

[Yamadog]

How much was all that? I'm shocked at how high priced the glides are. I have a new 28' enclosed and looking at a $500+ bill for simple guides.

I know wow! I am doing an 8.5' x 26' hauler and am using the utility puzzle flooring for the entire floor.

http://www.menards.com/main/floorin...p-2272756-c-6614.htm?tid=-1584747416815343426

I have ski guides and track mats for the rear door

And then the Caliber Ski Edge guides 10 wide from the main floor to the rear door and then removing the fold down tail piece and another 10 of these to the ground

http://www.caliberproductsinc.com/snowmobile-trailer-accessories/EdgeGlides.php

Just hoping to prevent what happened to my older hauler, some places look like a beaver lived in the trailer!

 

[BOUNTYHUNTER]

WOW....That looks WAY KOOL

Reminds me of those Little Electric Slot Cars that Race Around On Those Tracks

 

[Deeppow16]

It looks very good. They do help a lot. Once your in the trailer you don't even have to steer.

 

[NOS-PRO]

I know wow! I am doing an 8.5' x 26' hauler and am using the utility puzzle flooring for the entire floor.

http://www.menards.com/main/floorin...p-2272756-c-6614.htm?tid=-1584747416815343426

I have ski guides and track mats for the rear door

And then the Caliber Ski Edge guides 10 wide from the main floor to the rear door and then removing the fold down tail piece and another 10 of these to the ground

http://www.caliberproductsinc.com/snowmobile-trailer-accessories/EdgeGlides.php

Just hoping to prevent what happened to my older hauler, some places look like a beaver lived in the trailer!

I was looking at Menards for those also...seems like a good thing

I just got 64 feet of slide guides for $136 shipped to my door...and that was with tax. This company, I also bought my sled lifts from. Can't say the name but they are in Wisconsin.

 

[NOS-PRO]

This is what I've came up with so far...haven't done a test run thru with the sled yet so there still might be some fine tuning. Also need to install more traction matts. View attachment 110203View attachment 110204View attachment 110205View attachment 110206 View attachment 110207

Looks great man!

Little tip that I learned..... If your rear flap used to lay flush on the ramp door when closed...after the guides and mats are installed...the rear flap sticks up a bit, you will have problems with keeping the screws tight. I had mine fall off a few times, thank god nothing was scraped or damaged by it.

An easy fix I did to my trailer rear flap which worked great was....cut 2 pieces of wood that fills the gap and place 1 on each side. I made mine about a 1/4 inch taller and fastened using 2 90° angle aluminum brackets. This allowed the rear flap to rest on the wood pieces instead of binding down at the bottom and loosening the screws.