equillibrium88
Extreme
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2010
- Messages
- 123
- Age
- 42
- Location
- North Bay Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Phazer GT
I've read a lot about ski spindle bushings. I am assuming we are talking about the ones that are pressed into the bottom of the spindle? Problem is I can't inspect them because the collar that the ski bolt goes through and the spacers that go on this collar to fit my Slydog skiis are rusted on. I tried heat, liquid wrench, hammer and zippo. There stuck on there good. I got about 1/8" gap so I was going to cut them off with a sawzall. Any ideas?
Also my understanding is that if you jack up the front of your sled and grab the spindle there should be little to no movement laterally or vertically insinuating that I need to replace my ball joints. Its an 07' and no steering components have ever been changed.
I'd like to use the front end removal instructions to get the subframe off to do the A-arm bushings, Spindle bushings and ball joints. Also looking at a lower A-arm shim kit and the Sloppy steering fix. My sled is mad darting right now and I think its a combination of all these worn parts. I run Slydog Trailhounds with 6" shaper bars.
Also my understanding is that if you jack up the front of your sled and grab the spindle there should be little to no movement laterally or vertically insinuating that I need to replace my ball joints. Its an 07' and no steering components have ever been changed.
I'd like to use the front end removal instructions to get the subframe off to do the A-arm bushings, Spindle bushings and ball joints. Also looking at a lower A-arm shim kit and the Sloppy steering fix. My sled is mad darting right now and I think its a combination of all these worn parts. I run Slydog Trailhounds with 6" shaper bars.
porkchop
TY 4 Stroke Master
Get with RuggyBuggy on some parts.......
My Phazer he has now JUST had alot of those issues over 4K miles worth of riding and problem was fixed to a better degree, it still darted so I switched the skis to SLTs and got 1 last ride on it.
Riding on groomed, hard packed snow I could go about 52 MPH safely before it started bouncing side to side to almost being out of control- ran Curve skis (no LE on them).
I'd installed UP's steering kit, new OEM ball joints ($140 pair), Oilite A-arm bushings, spindle bushings this year- maybe 450 miles on it all.
Good luck,
Alot of pivot areas & such make it really hard to chase it to the point of "tight" without going broke.
My Phazer he has now JUST had alot of those issues over 4K miles worth of riding and problem was fixed to a better degree, it still darted so I switched the skis to SLTs and got 1 last ride on it.
Riding on groomed, hard packed snow I could go about 52 MPH safely before it started bouncing side to side to almost being out of control- ran Curve skis (no LE on them).
I'd installed UP's steering kit, new OEM ball joints ($140 pair), Oilite A-arm bushings, spindle bushings this year- maybe 450 miles on it all.
Good luck,
Alot of pivot areas & such make it really hard to chase it to the point of "tight" without going broke.
Gone Blue
VIP Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2006
- Messages
- 1,628
- Age
- 62
- Location
- Howell, Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 08' Nytro RTX 40th Anniversary - Stretched
yeah, you might be left with cutting the bolt with a sawzall. You will be pressing out the stock bushing anyways and replacing it with Bushman's , so will jsut need a new ski bolt. If it is that rusted, then a new bolt would be good. I coat my ski bolts with anti-seeze. They can still be hard to get off but it helps.
G.B.
G.B.
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