Skid Installation Help

[Dalton]

Alright so this has been the biggest pain in the world of the hole procedure so far.

Its a 136" track that I'm going to. We got the skid all extended for it.

Our first try we got it in the track and lined up the wheels inside fairly easily with the back end jacked up.

We attempted to lineup the holes in the front of the skid first but then realized it looks like the skid has to go in to the holes first at a certain angle. If the skid is too far forward we wouldn't be able to get the holes lined up for the front due to bolts being in the way.

I read on here that one guy said to tip the whole sled on the right hand side but i thought that drains oil out or oil gets dumped into something.

Needless to say this is by far the hardest part of the change and looking for some advice on what to do to get this puppy in.

 

[biffdotorg]

A ratchet strap to help compress the shocks always helps. I lift the rear end up enough to get it in. Yes it is a pain, but get those two front ones in first then line up the rears.

Good luck!

 

[Dalton]

Yeah I got both the front and the rear shock compressed down. The part that is getting me is that if I get the two holes up front lined up then the back of the track wont fit over the skid. Is there a special way of doing that part?

Thanks for the reply!

 

[ATV PRO #11]

I use pin bars (or punch or Philips screw driver) to help align the holes. Had mine out at least 5 times in 3 seasons and it never goes in the same lol.
You'll get it, busted up knuckles and some foul language but you'll get it!!

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Oh, and I have the rear wheels out usually. Found that helped a lot.
One other thing, when I get two front holes lined up, and bolts started I slide a 2x4 under the skid roughly where the front wheels start. Then I raise and lower the rear helping compress the front giving me that extra 1/16 -1/8" to get those darn rear ones in.
Hope this helps YA.

 

[Dalton]

That is a good idea and I can see how it would help to keep the fronts in place while trying to pry the back of the track on.

For the front holes though it seems like there is a groove you have to follow otherwise if you go to far with the skid you can't bring it back far enough because of the bolts that are in the way.

So I'm assuming you have to follow the groove and do the fronts first and just deal with how tight the back is going to be to get on?

Thanks for the quick reply!

Edit: And while your doing this both of the shocks are compressed or just your front one?

 

[Mooseman]

I know some have had track tightness issues when they extended it. They have it at the loosest adjustment and it's still tight. Could this be your problem? Try removing the rear wheels and see if that helps. Also the ratchet strap tip is good for compressing the skid.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

That is a good idea and I can see how it would help to keep the fronts in place while trying to pry the back of the track on.

For the front holes though it seems like there is a groove you have to follow otherwise if you go to far with the skid you can't bring it back far enough because of the bolts that are in the way.

So I'm assuming you have to follow the groove and do the fronts first and just deal with how tight the back is going to be to get on?

Thanks for the quick reply!

Edit: And while your doing this both of the shocks are compressed or just your front one?

YA if you look underneath you see where the arm bumps into that. Kinda have to keep the front up then slide in. Keep an eye on the plastic bushings. I break mine almost every time. Slide bolts in then move to the rear.
Moose is right tho, lots of tight 136 installs.

 

[Dalton]

Okay sounds good guys. I will be trying this tomorrow as I work all night tonight. Thanks for all the quick responses! I will keep you updated on it and if anyone else has suggestions thank you!

 

[biffdotorg]

Start with the ski

Yeah I got both the front and the rear shock compressed down. The part that is getting me is that if I get the two holes up front lined up then the back of the track wont fit over the skid. Is there a special way of doing that part?

Thanks for the reply!

start with the skid fully in the track and I'm the tunnel. The rear can then be lifted and the skid slid backwards to take the slack out of the track and line up with the holes. The skid can go further forwards than the holes.

Also take an outside wheel off the back of the skid to help you wrangle it into the track. Sometimes that is tough too.
Good luck

 

[Dalton]

Alright guys! My dad and I got it in! Thank you everyone so much for all the advice and help!! I can't thank you enough.

We ended up taking off the wheel but leaving the other two on. We got the skid back into the track like biffdotorg said. We got stuck again because the holes wouldn't line up and then magically a light shined on us and they fell right dead nuts on the holes. So we were pretty pumped to get those in. Then the backs we had in pretty quickly after that.

I had the skid compressed in the front and along with the torsion springs off load. Which helped a great deal.

Took it for a spin around the yard with no issues! Just in the yard I could already noticed the hook up was a HUGE improvement. I was actually able to tighten the track up a bit because there was a decent amount of sag in the track.

My brother has another Phazer that is a FX 121" track and we parked em side by side and the difference is amazing.

The tunnel extension will also be done shortly here! Will post that up once done!! New bumper will be going along with it as the one in the picture I broke last season falling on it.

Thank you everyone very much again. This track extension wouldn't have happened without this site and the generous users on it.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Sweet looking machine there Dalton!! Boy the rear sits high.

 

[3-UP]

Back looks OK , the wrong length shocks on the front or something, its slammed.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Back looks OK , the wrong length shocks on the front or something, its slammed.

Almost level a-arms, pull that strap up one more in the skid and it would be a trail demon!! New skid may have a lot more weight on skis. So common to see springs set lower in front. I may tear down an old set of Elkas I have and try a dual or triple rate in the front on stock shocks. Would probably sit that low idle. Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee!!

 

[Ruggybuggy]

I'm the guy who posted to put the sled on its side. It's much easier and you can do it yourself. You roll the sled on its right side so the oil doesn't come out. I put something under the right handle bar end so it didn't roll all the way over and a quad tire under the tunnel to lift the back up. You slid the skid in the track at almost 90 degrees to the sled and bolt the front of the ski in first. Upright the sled then bolt the rear in. I didn't even have to ratchet the skid down but easier if you do. I did use a ratchet strap to pull the skid forward to line up the rear bolts.

Clear as mud?