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SNAP! Exhaust bolt


Yup, your right. Probly would if it's good and hot. If not maybe file a flat on both sides to get a small wrench on it
 
Get rid of those factory "bolts"and get hex heads and use copper antiseize as mentioned.
 
I find the factory bolts to be better than any aftermarket bolts. I have to run small hex bolts on two of them, but they never stay tight and are week tending to stretch and break. I've tried stainless high grade and header bolts, all are weak and will not stay tight. I've only had luck with the stock ones myself.
 
I use grade 8 bolts for those 2 that are tough to get on with a Torx.
BTW- the recommended factory torque for those bolts is like 18 ft.lbs. It's easy to over-tighten these bolts especially when using a T50 Torx on a 3/8" ratchet.
 
Not rubbing salt on the wound but when you get them all removed, run a tap through the holes to clean the threads up. I do that every season when it’s off - to clean up the baked never seize on the threads. When re installing you can feel the threads way better.

I changed all the crappy torx with SS hex heads with lock washers. Never had issues of them staying tight. Far easier to remove.
Ms
 
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I put these in NEW every year with Nickle anti seize. I just snug them up(no need to torque the h#$% out of them.. Never had a issue removing(with heat) or installing new bolts every year. Put these in at 200-300 miles on sled. 9K and never had one loosen up and or break. Chased a few threads to clean them out. That's it!
I also have had good luck with new ss hex heads and lock washers every year, although I use copper anti-seize. I think a key to whole deal is, every time you pull a bolt, replace it and chase the threads to clean the hole. For the $10-15 in bolts/year, I'm hoping is cheap insurance. I wish I had 9K miles on my sled...lucky sob lol
 
weld a nut or try to drill but becareful when drilling so the drill bit don't walk the cast iron will drill very easy. otherwise I have a new turbo in stock.
 
should be easy to drill, use the flange as your guide.....
 
Good news so far, warmed the sled up and used the cut torx to remove the remaining 2 bolts. At least I can continue my chaincase oil service, and chain tension.

This happened to me as I am switching my winder back to winter trail from asphalt. I religiously use anti-seize and I had one break. Tried heating up and it would not budge. I started out small, drilling straight thru and stepping up till I could use an easy-out. Still couldn't get it out so I drilled to the minor diameter and ran a tap thru...all good now.
 
This happened to me as I am switching my winder back to winter trail from asphalt. I religiously use anti-seize and I had one break. Tried heating up and it would not budge. I started out small, drilling straight thru and stepping up till I could use an easy-out. Still couldn't get it out so I drilled to the minor diameter and ran a tap thru...all good now.

Good to know as a last resort. On my list is to pick up a metric tap set before I reinstall.
 
Good to know as a last resort. On my list is to pick up a metric tap set before I reinstall.

Just be careful on the blind holes .....you don't want the tap to load against the blind hole !!! they are the bottom right and left on the turbine housing
 


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