NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
RowdyRoddy said:NyTrOMaNIaC said:Mine is not as bad since I removed ALL the tunnel protectors, but it still holds snow in this area somewhat. My buddy works for our municipality and has access to a product that snowplow operators use on the blades of their plows to eliminate snow build-up, I'm gonna spray it on the inside of the tunnel and see how it works, I'll let ya know
Whats the name of this product??
RR
As soon as I get it in my hands, I'll let ya know
(my supplier is a slacker
)I also removed the tunnel protectors , had some issues with the "stalagtites" last year,they formed on the tunnel protectors and GREW,and GREW then froze rock hard that night. This year removed them, and made a attempt to close off tunnel. Results are much better, but not solved, slowly starts to build at the back of the tunnel, i believe the water comes from the snow melting on the header and blown back in the tunnel and starts to stick, then just grows. The exhaust does get very hot I'am still keeping an eye on that.
Attachments
walty
Extreme
i got a question, the plate you fab, does it get warm or hot....maybe very hot so the snow is NOW melting on this plate???maybe a 2nd plate over the 1st one leaving a gap (beetwind the 2 layers)ktm010 said:
should do the trick??
i will do about the same but leave the front portion open so cold air can get around the muffler and "cool" this section so plastic and seat melting souldnt be a problem!!!
skyboz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
ktm010, do you get a lot of snow dust on the back of your jacket??
Plate gets very hot mainly towards the front closest to header connection, no snow on this for sure. Even if I add another plate the header is exposed all the way to the front of the tunnel. Has anyone else closed off there tunnel, maybe some louvers cut in the close off plate, or directing some air into the upper part for the silencer to be cooled would also cool the close off plate. Also no snow dust on my jacket at least nothing I noticed. Keep in mind snow and ice build up is way less, mostly in the snow flap area. But this was a 75 mile ride, add more miles and I'am sure build up will grow. Next I need to check a couple of 2-strokes and maybe they now have the same amount, Originally it was excessive now might be normal.
skyboz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I had to ask. I partially closed mine off and my back gets a lot of snow dust!!!
Snoxracer242
Expert
What do you guys think of putting the plate to the top side of the tunnel protectors? I think that I might try that, starting at the back and going as far forward as I can, til I bump up to the muffler. But then I thought that it would just create a place for the snow to sit on too? I don't know what is the best solution but this is terrible.
dooflyinryan
Newbie
Has anybody tried a teflon spray? Fairly cheap, lasts a long time and nothing sticks to it. Maybe too flammable????
RowdyRoddy
Expert
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2007
- Messages
- 244
- Location
- Corner Brook, Newfoundland, Canada
- Website
- www.westernsnoriders.ca
A friend of mine used "Rust Check" spray on the tunnel of his vector and he said it helped stop the build up of ice. I think I'm gonna try this.
RR
RR
If you google Ecological Coatings they have a product called ICEPHOBIC. The NAVY uses it on their ships. I tried their contact info a couple times last wed but no answer. I left a message but still have not heard anything. They are located in N.Y. so there may be a chance that someone is close to them. I also found a product called t65 mr. slick that the city of Fargo N.D. uses on their snow plows. Its made by teamlab.com but is only avail in 5 gal. containers. I have a product called EZ-SLICK that I am going to try and I'll post the results. If that does not work I am going to fab a alum. plate that gets riveted to the tunnel protectors. On that plate I'm going to fasten what is called slip plate (polyetholene) not sure how long to make it yet but I want to cover as much as I can. Heat is going to be an issue. Teflon spray is a great idea! I searched DUPONTS web and they have a couple options on there. This is not a hard fix we just need to try every option and keep everyone posted. GOOD LUCK!!dooflyinryan said:
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
Here's what I intended try to fend off the ice build-up;
Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search for this part number 2208T21. Then buy some, install it and report back on if I should spend my money on this too. Thanks.
KTM010 with that large flat panel you installed you're probably the best candidate to run this experiment for the Team.
Good luck. We're all behind you, man.
Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search for this part number 2208T21. Then buy some, install it and report back on if I should spend my money on this too. Thanks.
KTM010 with that large flat panel you installed you're probably the best candidate to run this experiment for the Team.
Good luck. We're all behind you, man.
You might be on to something there! If it can take the heat. And not expensive either.arteeex said:
nytrose
Pro
just throwing ideas out and thinking out loud...... I used to have a snow blade that was made of lexan a very incredibly durable type of plexiglass....its available in less than 1mm thickness.Take a look at your i-pod their gleaming white plastic is Lexan.To fasten you can also get self-drilling, self-tapping screws with neoprene washers,although I,m not sure if that method can be used.Or I have used aircraft quality rivets on my sled before amazingly durable and dont come loose.Just drill hole a little bigger than fastener to allow for exp/contraction. I noticed that the build-up tends to happen mostly along the inside sides midway of the tunnel and then bridges across to the tunnel protectors and in front of snow flap. I think another member commented that the header melts the snow and shoots the water back and it sticks on the cold aluminum and builds from there. I agree this is exactly whats happening and its unfortunate cause I need my protectors!!
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
1050THMPR The PTFE is good for about 700F. The issue will be the adhesive. The specs indicate an operating temp to 300F. I think this will be fine, just keep it 6" from the exhaust.
Similar threads
