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So whats the deal now with closing off of the tunnel?


.032" or .040 aluminum would be good for closing the tunnel.

HERE is a link to some .032 sheet that is cheap enough for this DIY project... they also have .040
 
ndc821 said:
Where are you guys buying the excell tunnel kit from? I cant seem to locate a distributor...

Excell Motorsports
Hubbardsville NY
315-691-6916

I just ordered mine straight from them. Looking forward to putting it on when I get it.

Has anyone covered up the hole and left there side panels on? Havent decided if i should leave them on or take them off once the hole is covered!
 
I'm gonna leave the side covers on mine cause I think they look sharp. I have an aftermarket pipe tho. plus it's gonna be wrapped with header wrap.


Later,
Will
 
cannondale27 said:
Exhaust ALWAYS works better when hot.Keeping the heat in the pipes where it belongs is a goal of just about any highperformance vehicle and is reason there is Ceramic coatings and headerwraps..

You are right – but basically on 2/’s not 4/’s.

The 2/ pipe works to push the unburned charge back into the cylinder. The coating is done to maintain the gas inside at high temperature. A un- shielded pipe can dissipate a lot of heat. On modern race sleds, a timing button is used to allow the gas to build heat for the start. That can add about 20 hp for the spilt second initial launch.

Most 4/ pipes are coated to keep the heat away from the engine compartment not performance.

A 4/ wants to remove all the exhaust charge. A 2/ wants to push the unburned fuel back in.
 
close the tunnel

my brother and i each have an 07 fx. i closed both holes and he did not. on our ride together yesterday, my tunnel and running boards were dry with no snow build up. his machine, on the other hand was a mess. ice on the outside and inside, probably 30 pounds worth. he is not ready to close the tunnel yet but its only a matter of time before he gets tired of knocking the ice off.
 
RJH said:
cannondale27 said:
Exhaust ALWAYS works better when hot.Keeping the heat in the pipes where it belongs is a goal of just about any highperformance vehicle and is reason there is Ceramic coatings and headerwraps..

You are right – but basically on 2/’s not 4/’s.

The 2/ pipe works to push the unburned charge back into the cylinder. The coating is done to maintain the gas inside at high temperature. A un- shielded pipe can dissipate a lot of heat. On modern race sleds, a timing button is used to allow the gas to build heat for the start. That can add about 20 hp for the spilt second initial launch.

Most 4/ pipes are coated to keep the heat away from the engine compartment not performance.

A 4/ wants to remove all the exhaust charge. A 2/ wants to push the unburned fuel back in.

Well look at it this way.How well do you think a 4stroke pipe filled with carbon deposits will flow?Now if pipe is hot enough to burn those out how well will it flow?
How well does a pipe that is hot hold up to being quenched with Icewater every so often?
Show me proof a hot exhaust hurts power.Even if it does loose a couple hp I would rather be able to keep my feet on runningboards a thick layer of Ice is dangerous.
 
i closed off my tunnel this weekend with a sheet of aluminum i sheared at work, wow what a difference, i had the yamaha side panels put on during the week and never noticed much help in curing the icing problem, it was only -5 degrees out this weekend and never had any problems with anything melting even with the new panels being really close, and i found that the sled pulled harder with the heat being kept into the muffler, i highly recommend closing off the tunnel the sled is 10 times better now
 


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