Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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The factory solenoid is just undersized for the current it carries. Over time, the contacts just get burnt, which increases resistance and amps, which then causes it to fuse to the contacts. Also heard that the spring inside gets weak. In any case, if the OEM one has failures, imagine cheap Chinese crap.
Since trails are still not open here, I might do this, add a cutoff switch, LED warning light and booster posts before mine fails.
Since trails are still not open here, I might do this, add a cutoff switch, LED warning light and booster posts before mine fails.
74Nitro
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It's not a big issue at all. I worked at a Yamaha dealer from 1997 through 2004. Since 2004, I've been an independent shop. I've worked on hundreds of these during that time. I saw this happen once on a ten year old 2007 Apex with over 30000kms that still had the original parts. One time.Now as I do get your point, I wonder with how many threads there are in this, the oem failure is a big issue. Until recently I didn't know how prevelant this issue was but that makes me wonder why not go a different route with an old school solenoid? It's not a huge job but really don't want to do it again. If when it failed it just didn't start I would be less worried but when these fail it doesn't shut off which on the trail can be a big problem trying to get the battery unhooked fast enough to prevent damage.
My OEM went out and I without knowledge replaced it with a cheap Amazon option, that ate my starter. The last couple weeks all I have read it seems to be a normal maintenance item which seems silly, I just think there must be a better way. Maybe I am naive
The internet forums blow everything out of proportion.
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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Then why does Rock have a warning LED kit for when it does happen?
74Nitro
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There's plenty of sledders that love to add every accessory available.Then why does Rock have a warning LED kit for when it does happen?
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quote from roc in his starter saver thread.
It takes a while to fully cook/destroy the starter/wiring/etc. Usually 20+ minutes. (Most sleds with s stuck starter die within 15-20 miles)
A few minutes of running is unlikely to seriously damage the starter.
However to prevent permanent/expensive damage you must KNOW something is wrong AND act on that info!
Knowledge & Time are important! A few minutes ok, 15 minutes NOT OK!
Meaning: If you know & act on the issue right away, it is not likely to hurt your starter, one way clutch, stator, wiring, etc.
The stator does not have enough power to run the starter and your sled, so if you disconnect the battery with the starter engaged, your sled will shut itself off..
The Starter Saver is intended to let you know if have a problem so you can act on it, & save you many $$$
The idea is to provide an easy to install, low cost device that will help you if needed.
Not all sleds will have an issue at all, many never will.
(So adding a disconnect is not really necessary for most, as most will never have an issue, and you still must know you have an issue for it to do any possible good)
The Starter Saver gives you peace of mind and saves you lots of grief if you DO have an issue.
On my Apex, I pulled the throttle body clamps & threw them in my toolbox.
The boot clamps are a PAIN to install, and are somewhat pointless, as the boots fit tight to the throttle bodies. (Mine do anyway)
(Or you can very lightly snug the clamps as maim mentioned, removing them just makes it easier to re-install the airbox also)
Once you eliminate the boot clamps, it is insanely easy & quick to access everything under the airbox.
1) Release the rubber hold-down on front of airbox.
2) Unplug air sensor.
3) Pull drain hose.
4) Lift airbox out.
You don't even need any tools! Super fast & easy!
Your airbox won't go anywhere. Will work just as before.
Try it, you will wonder why you ever messed with the clamps prior!
Hope this helps
It takes a while to fully cook/destroy the starter/wiring/etc. Usually 20+ minutes. (Most sleds with s stuck starter die within 15-20 miles)
A few minutes of running is unlikely to seriously damage the starter.
However to prevent permanent/expensive damage you must KNOW something is wrong AND act on that info!
Knowledge & Time are important! A few minutes ok, 15 minutes NOT OK!
Meaning: If you know & act on the issue right away, it is not likely to hurt your starter, one way clutch, stator, wiring, etc.
The stator does not have enough power to run the starter and your sled, so if you disconnect the battery with the starter engaged, your sled will shut itself off..
The Starter Saver is intended to let you know if have a problem so you can act on it, & save you many $$$
The idea is to provide an easy to install, low cost device that will help you if needed.
Not all sleds will have an issue at all, many never will.
(So adding a disconnect is not really necessary for most, as most will never have an issue, and you still must know you have an issue for it to do any possible good)
The Starter Saver gives you peace of mind and saves you lots of grief if you DO have an issue.
On my Apex, I pulled the throttle body clamps & threw them in my toolbox.
The boot clamps are a PAIN to install, and are somewhat pointless, as the boots fit tight to the throttle bodies. (Mine do anyway)
(Or you can very lightly snug the clamps as maim mentioned, removing them just makes it easier to re-install the airbox also)
Once you eliminate the boot clamps, it is insanely easy & quick to access everything under the airbox.
1) Release the rubber hold-down on front of airbox.
2) Unplug air sensor.
3) Pull drain hose.
4) Lift airbox out.
You don't even need any tools! Super fast & easy!
Your airbox won't go anywhere. Will work just as before.
Try it, you will wonder why you ever messed with the clamps prior!
Hope this helps

grizztracks
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I really don't believe the relay is undersized. With my years of experience diagnosing starter and starter relay issues I've found If the relay can't handle the amperage draw from the starter it's probably do to a bad starter. I've documented issues with theses starters many times. Slipped magnets and worn brushes are common problems which cause the starter to be less efficient. Water intrusion in and around the OEM starter relay has been problematic but can be delt with by applying dielectric grease and shielding or relocating the relay. I covered the starter relay on my 2008 Nytro with a rubber boot not long after I purchased it new and it's still starting the engine with no issues. Keeping it dry is important.
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