jpaw
Newbie
Actually the gaps on the CR8EK need to be the correct gap. Excessive plug gap can cause ignition delay and damage coil packs. The Ignition system being used dictates spark plug gap, not spark plug type.
As far as iridium plugs not starting? I have had no issues. They maintain the proper gap up 5~10 times as long as a standard plugs. They also require less ignition energy and are better at carbon shedding.
There’s a reason iridium plugs are more expensive, they just plain work better than nickel electrode spark plugs. M2C
Considering using the CR9EK, what's the consensus on proper gap? Reading through this, it looks like some run the stock gap and .020" is also recommended. If gap adjustment is required, are there any tricks? It looks like there'd be challenges in using traditional gapping tools on this plug type.
KnappAttack
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Considering using the CR9EK, what's the consensus on proper gap? Reading through this, it looks like some run the stock gap and .020" is also recommended. If gap adjustment is required, are there any tricks? It looks like there'd be challenges in using traditional gapping tools on this plug type.
You don't need a gapping tool, just tap them on the bench or something solid to tighten the gap up. I run them at .020" and you have to to gap two electrodes per plug. They come at .024", if you want to run them there that seems fine too. The 998 does not seem to misfire with larger gaps.
Kevin
Lifetime Member
Any plug updates for stock sidewinders?
The cat dealer told my buddy that there is a better plug than stock but they were out and he didn't get the part number
The cat dealer told my buddy that there is a better plug than stock but they were out and he didn't get the part number
Turboflash
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What is "something better?" Something "new?" Not sure about 2020-2021 998s but prior to that stock plugs were CR8E NGK. NGK CR8EIX is platinum tip. Does that make it "better?" Also, NGK has a "EK" series plug that is dual ground electrode (CR8EK). Ski Doo put them in their 1200s and said they were the only plug that made a tiny bit more power.
General Motors spent years and millions of dollars trying to see if any of the "new technology" plugs made more HP or otherwise performed better in their engines. Answer was 'no.' Their conclusion was either it lights the charge or it doesn't.
Lots of threads here on TY about spark plugs.
General Motors spent years and millions of dollars trying to see if any of the "new technology" plugs made more HP or otherwise performed better in their engines. Answer was 'no.' Their conclusion was either it lights the charge or it doesn't.
Lots of threads here on TY about spark plugs.
yamadoo
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What is "something better?" Something "new?" Not sure about 2020-2021 998s but prior to that stock plugs were CR8E NGK. NGK CR8EIX is platinum tip. Does that make it "better?" Also, NGK has a "EK" series plug that is dual ground electrode (CR8EK). Ski Doo put them in their 1200s and said they were the only plug that made a tiny bit more power.
General Motors spent years and millions of dollars trying to see if any of the "new technology" plugs made more HP or otherwise performed better in their engines. Answer was 'no.' Their conclusion was either it lights the charge or it doesn't.
Lots of threads here on TY about spark plugs.
We need to understand that GM and studies in general have a mathematical definition of ‘significance’.
Knapp already said its 2-3 hp, thats at or just less than 1%a change/ improvement, so for the OEM it is NOT significant BUT is it better YES.
It’s paying attention to 100’s of variable details and optimizing as many as possible that leads to winning races by hundredths of a second. So GM says NO not significant does not mean its not real or present. Many studies of the internal combustion engine have gone on for years trying to get a more powerful ‘explosion’ or burn-shape of the head, AFR, ETC. But the take home message is NOT all burns or combustion’s or Explosions are the same.
THose OEM studies have lead to amazing technology that has us now drive fuel injected trucks, cars, sleds that start in the COLD, produce way more HP per Cubic inch and have less harmful emissions ...I could go on but you get my point.
So when we are told by someone who has more dyno time than some have sled seat time something makes a slight difference, I believe it does. BUT because I am NOT racing for a living it is NOT significant to me. So stock plugs are just fine.
My two cents
jonlafon1
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Stock plugs > 9700 miles ... pulls like a freight train. Spend more time on your drive shaft wear.
Turboflash
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Or making sure all the wheels in your skid are turning free and easy! Or, your clutches are aligned correctly. Or, your skis are aligned correctly. Etc, etc.
SledFreak
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I went to a colder plug on the Nytro and was confirmed from Ulmer that they made more hp... The real issue that I seen going away from the stock plug, was how easy other plugs fouled, and they did not start as well in really cold whether, like -25 to -40 range. It always took a couple of more cranks, so that is the reason why I would stay away from them, unless you are someone that is craving every last bit of HP. These tunes make an abundance of hp more than stock, I dont see why you need to screw with having starting issues on a cold morning.. Even on a stocker, why would one bother..
KnappAttack
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I went to a colder plug on the Nytro and was confirmed from Ulmer that they made more hp... The real issue that I seen going away from the stock plug, was how easy other plugs fouled, and they did not start as well in really cold whether, like -25 to -40 range. It always took a couple of more cranks, so that is the reason why I would stay away from them, unless you are someone that is craving every last bit of HP. These tunes make an abundance of hp more than stock, I dont see why you need to screw with having starting issues on a cold morning.. Even on a stocker, why would one bother..
Yes, but the colder plug was a "EK" series NGK spark plug.
As I have said, the only plug ever found to make a bit more power is the NGK "EK" series of dual electrode plug as it exposes the fuel air charge to the flame kernel better igniting the charge quick and allow a more fuel burn quicker. The same could be done with regular plugs I suppose if you indexed them properly, and some people may have never heard of such a thing as indexing plugs, so in essence every time you use a "EK" plug it just simply makes more power.
SledFreak
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Right... I am in agreement.. But, All I am saying of cold whether starts come into play when switching to the EK. Its weird though, because my 1200's never had an issue, but Nytro should did not like them..
KnappAttack
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Right... I am in agreement.. But, All I am saying of cold whether starts come into play when switching to the EK. Its weird though, because my 1200's never had an issue, but Nytro should did not like them..
The 1200 used a 8 heat range, the Nytro used the 10 heat range in the EK when it came with a 9 heat range stock plug. Just a matter of using the proper heat range for the job to prevent fouling...
Also to prevent fouling, do not start an engine just to load on a trailer and shut it down without bringing it up to temp. The reason they foul is the the machine is in rich mode when cold and people do not get them up to temp before shutting them down. So the fix is to quit firing them up for just a short period of time to load or unload say on a trailer or to move a machine in or out of the garage, and this is good advice for any engine to prevent fouling plugs. It's also hard on the engine, not just the plugs. It's also a reason the relays freeze on these things too, they don't get brought up to temp under the hood properly.
Turboflash
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Been running CR9EK for 2 years now and never have had a starting problem (or fouling problem), even with sled sitting outside in -25 degF at night. IMO, it's more about the fuel map.
74Nitro
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Mike, would you ever be concerned about the electrodes glowing, since there is more of it compared to other plugs.Yes, but the colder plug was a "EK" series NGK spark plug.
As I have said, the only plug ever found to make a bit more power is the NGK "EK" series of dual electrode plug as it exposes the fuel air charge to the flame kernel better igniting the charge quick and allow a more fuel burn quicker. The same could be done with regular plugs I suppose if you indexed them properly, and some people may have never heard of such a thing as indexing plugs, so in essence every time you use a "EK" plug it just simply makes more power.
KnappAttack
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Mike, would you ever be concerned about the electrodes glowing, since there is more of it compared to other plugs.
No, never been a concern more so than a std plug. The EK style of plug is used in many hi-performance engines. They are used on engines that make way more power and boost than the winder has ever dreamt of making. No plug on the market can make claims of making more power than another, typically plugs either make a spark or they don't, but the EK series is one that actually is capable of making a gain in power production simply because it generates a bigger flame kernel quicker as the ground electrode isn't shrouding the spark from the AF charge. They will show approx. 2-3 HP gain on an engine dyno on a 3 or 4 cylinder Yamaha. Cheap HP gain to be quite honest.
74Nitro
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Why do you think the ECS series of plugs was designed, first used in the SRX, and also Skidoo models later on. I was told that the shorter electrode was likely to glow. Do two strokes have more heat at the electrode since there is no cooling cycle stroke like a four stroke?No, never been a concern more so than a std plug. The EK style of plug is used in many hi-performance engines. They are used on engines that make way more power and boost than the winder has ever dreamt of making. No plug on the market can make claims of making more power than another, typically plugs either make a spark or they don't, but the EK series is one that actually is capable of making a gain in power production simply because it generates a bigger flame kernel quicker as the ground electrode isn't shrouding the spark from the AF charge. They will show approx. 2-3 HP gain on an engine dyno on a 3 or 4 cylinder Yamaha. Cheap HP gain to be quite honest.
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