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Sr Viper 2016 flash poll and Thread

Let us know how your Viper start when cold with the new ECU flash

  • start instantly

    Votes: 21 13.7%
  • Now it take 2 attemps to start

    Votes: 114 74.5%
  • start better than before

    Votes: 19 12.4%
  • no difference

    Votes: 7 4.6%
  • My speedometer is now unaccurate

    Votes: 17 11.1%
  • Has your sled stalled since latest flash

    Votes: 7 4.6%
  • Has Your sled had a extremely loud backfire since flash

    Votes: 8 5.2%

  • Total voters
    153
so not enough change in afr to really be concerned with it?
No shouldn't be. It's different though for sure. I will need to lean out my start and idle since I previously richened that up. Funny thing thought was a 900 doo in parking lot this morning purring steady as a clock. That used to be Yamaha.
 

Seems like an very rich idle for a warm engine. Mine definitely sounds/smell like its rich at idle but I have no idea which flash mine has right now. Mine is an auction sled that was a Factory Demo with a Oct/13' build date, and the dealer didn't get a chance to flash it when I bought it since the battery was shot and test ran it off a jump pack. I really didn't want them to flash it anyhow since it might have the original 14' flash still. With a brand new battery at -15*f it cranked a good 5 count before it started to catch on one cylinder and took another 3 count of cranking to fire up. Tried it 3 times since then at +15*f and it fires up after a 2 count. The exhaust smells rich at idle and it has a pretty good burble hot or cold. Does Yamaha still use paint stick marks somewhere on the sled when updates are done?
 
I just returned from a fun spring trip to the Big Horn Mountains in WY. We rode almost 300 miles over 2 1/2 days (remember this is boondocking country) and I was happy with how my sled started and ran with this new flash. Yes it still took a couple tries when cold, but always fired right up first try when warm.

Sadly I think there is just something up with the ECU or electronics on these things that creates a "if we fix this... that will break" situation. Maybe they just decided a couple spins to start when cold was better then having kick back or a hot start issue. It seems like every flash has some little issue. Two tries to start cold is by far the lessor of the evils this ECU seems to introduce into the engine. The funny thing is it always fires right up when you turn the key a second time when cold.

The sled performed well and of course there is hero snow all over right now so I had a blast and never got stuck.
 
Seems like an very rich idle for a warm engine. Mine definitely sounds/smell like its rich at idle but I have no idea which flash mine has right now. Mine is an auction sled that was a Factory Demo with a Oct/13' build date, and the dealer didn't get a chance to flash it when I bought it since the battery was shot and test ran it off a jump pack. I really didn't want them to flash it anyhow since it might have the original 14' flash still. With a brand new battery at -15*f it cranked a good 5 count before it started to catch on one cylinder and took another 3 count of cranking to fire up. Tried it 3 times since then at +15*f and it fires up after a 2 count. The exhaust smells rich at idle and it has a pretty good burble hot or cold. Does Yamaha still use paint stick marks somewhere on the sled when updates are done?
Ok yesterday morn was a 26 deg F cold start. So below freezing. Got on sled cranked key and it started first try. No Prime. AFR is VERY rich at start. 10.2 AFR WITH TUNER. Sounded like a TopFuelDragster on Methanol! I would not Prime the sled at startup. Even stock. Mine started every time all weekend on first crank. That covers start.
Morning was below freezing but still a warm day. There is a point about 1/3 throttle where it is extremely lean 16.3 AFR. Just cruising. Yet Sometimes not all. Kind of reminded me of the Nytro burble. I did have many backfires out exhaust throughout day along with more engine braking. All of mapping was leaned out AFTER warmup with the flash. Sometimes I have a idle as smooth as that 900Doo. It is at 12 AFR when that smooth idle is there. Its only random though when its smooth. The 16.3 lean spot must be corrected. I found myself riding in that range twice and would not have known unless AFR gauge was there. Conclusion If modded you need to check your AFR's and correct them. I can live with this flash easily so far and if it protects my starter I am glad. The mapping of the flash itself needs work. I will get mine perfect next year and hopefully Yamaha does it for everyone else. Nothing is consistent right now and it can be felt,heard and seen with AFR. But it made whole weekend starting with one crank and always started never overheated and was faster than the 800 cat I was with so I am happy.
 
This weekend my sleds starting was all over the place. After reading Cannondale's comments I tried not priming and it worked a few times and didn't a few times. Once, I primed it and it didn't go, so I primed it again and it gave a HUGE backfire. So I still don't know what works the best yet. I have to say I'm still in love with this chassis though! Access to the fuse panel sucks, but it rides like a dream.
 
You need to be more specific. Did a gear break or just magnets fell off starter. Two very different issues. Thank you


Got my sled back yesterday...gear was fine just a stuck starter...said it was seized solid...that's all they could tell me as they didn't take it apart.
 
Got my sled back yesterday...gear was fine just a stuck starter...said it was seized solid...that's all they could tell me as they didn't take it apart.
That's a good thing then. Consider solenoid replacement also. Cheap insurance in case it was stuck on causing starter to overheat. You may never know if that's what happened.
 
When my ole Viper went in for warranty work this winter and i was told they did a reflash. I was bummed from what I read on here. Riding on a trip with my ole Viper I noticed in the morning the Viper would crank and crank. I told him to quit and let it sit. I told him to try again and it started.. I never had this happen before. Wish they would have left it alone but we never told them to not do it.
 
anyone know if there is new flash out yet haha? I don't have a viper but everyone else in my crew does and all 6 of them need atleast 2 tries in the morning and sometimes they backfire after the first crank. all stock and serviced at the dealer. all 15's except one 14..... they are all up to date on flashes as of the end of last years riding season as far as we have been told..... if not is there any aftermarket support with this issue?
 
anyone know if there is new flash out yet haha? I don't have a viper but everyone else in my crew does and all 6 of them need atleast 2 tries in the morning and sometimes they backfire after the first crank. all stock and serviced at the dealer. all 15's except one 14..... they are all up to date on flashes as of the end of last years riding season as far as we have been told..... if not is there any aftermarket support with this issue?

X2 on this question. My new 2018 needs 2 tries to start, everytime.
 
That is because it is Arctic Crap code and electronics! My '15 Viper backfired so hard that it took out the starter, stator, flywheel, etc. the entire engine had to be pulled to remove the shrapnel from the oil pan. I never trusted the sled after that although I had 5 years of warranty. I traded it in on a new Sidewinder with Yamaha electronics and code.
 
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X2 on this question. My new 2018 needs 2 tries to start, everytime.

Is it still the Cat (Continental/Siemens) in 2018 Viper? Or is it Mitsubishi like the Sidewinder?
 


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