jpetersen1
Newbie
I bought a 14 sr viper xtx and I'm pushing really bad in corners. I'm about 270# without gear. So far I've tightened the limiter straps as far as they will go, front shocks set at 75psi, rear shock set at 135psi and middle shock is at stock setting. I had a set of tuner skis put on with 4'' & 6'' carbides. Does anybody have some set up suggestions?? I'm thinking about loosening the middle shock and maybe going with more carbide on the tuner skis??
snomadTT
Lifetime Member
I am on the LTX, but here is what I did with great success:
Pull up limiter two holes. Loosen front shock in skid so it has preload only. Front Fox shocks at 75PSI.
Now the key...7.5" Snowtracker carbides on stock skis.
Handling now is WOW. On rails with flat hard trails and absolutely no ski lift in corners. No darting what-so-ever. Good bite in loose snow conditions (4 - 6" of loose on trail) with very little push.
Pull up limiter two holes. Loosen front shock in skid so it has preload only. Front Fox shocks at 75PSI.
Now the key...7.5" Snowtracker carbides on stock skis.
Handling now is WOW. On rails with flat hard trails and absolutely no ski lift in corners. No darting what-so-ever. Good bite in loose snow conditions (4 - 6" of loose on trail) with very little push.
jpetersen1
Newbie
I'm thinking about loosening my middle shock so I'm showing 11 threads and maybe going with 6'' carbides all around on my tuner skis instead of 4'' on the outside and 6'' on the inside of the skis? If all of this doesn't help or get me where I want to be I'll try the snow trackers with 7.5'' carbides on the stock skis. Anybody have any suggestions??
fxnytrortxkid
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Loosened my fathers center shock 1/4" an dropped 1 hole on limiter strap. Also went to 75psi in front shocks. Goal was get it to turn more and soften it a bit
Nytros rule
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My wife is 105 lbs. in full gear and does not have a problem with her XTX pushing her around in the corners.
I have her at 60 Psi. front, centre stock, rear at 120 Psi. limiters all the way out.
I also have AC dual carbide to reduce darting.
Keep in mind you are driving an uncoupled suspension, if you are trying to drive it through the corners you will be lifting the front end = equals no ski pressure.
Go in hard back out of the throttle a bit to make the front drop and it will go around the corner then get back on it.
I have her at 60 Psi. front, centre stock, rear at 120 Psi. limiters all the way out.
I also have AC dual carbide to reduce darting.
Keep in mind you are driving an uncoupled suspension, if you are trying to drive it through the corners you will be lifting the front end = equals no ski pressure.
Go in hard back out of the throttle a bit to make the front drop and it will go around the corner then get back on it.
Nytros rule
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If you are trying to make an XTX a groomed trail rocket you bought the wrong sled, should have gone for an RTX or LTX coupled suspension.
YamahaTim
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jpetersen1 said:I'm thinking about loosening my middle shock so I'm showing 11 threads and maybe going with 6'' carbides all around on my tuner skis instead of 4'' on the outside and 6'' on the inside of the skis? If all of this doesn't help or get me where I want to be I'll try the snow trackers with 7.5'' carbides on the stock skis. Anybody have any suggestions??
Well the more you loosen your front skid shock the more ski pressure you will get. Tightening the straps will also give you ski pressure. Dropping a little in the front floats to compare with the back. But all this is doing is making your sled soft and 270 is no light weight! I'm 250 dressed and mine is set up stiff. I mean the softer you make it yes it should have better steering, with some inside ski lift. I would set the sled to your weight and get some crazy carbides on there. I know Yamadog has Simmons skis with two 8 inch carbides on both sides. His handles really good except there is a lot of ski pressure! The nature of this chassis is to push so it stays flat. So changing that will present another problem. Like ski lift or bottoming if your jumping or hitting big bumps.
jpetersen1
Newbie
I'm thinking for now I'll just set my suspension stiff for my weight and either go with 6'' carbides all the way around on my tuner skis I have on now or put the stock skis back on and put some snow trackers with 7.5'' carbides on and see if that works??
Yamadog
Lifetime Member
I have the same deal and have tried several bars on the stock skis up to dual 6" woodys. I now have a pair of simmons on it with 2 - 8" carbides on each ski. It drives like a truck and still has a bit of a push but not as bad. I have the limiter strap up 1 hole the front skid shock at 3/4's out so when you lift the skid there is no compression on the spring and 120 lbs in the rear float. I have pruchased a coupler but have not gotten it in yet.
The one good thing is that my arms have increased to the point my watch will not fit any more - who needs a gym?
The one good thing is that my arms have increased to the point my watch will not fit any more - who needs a gym?
YamahaTim
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I know that know one want to hear this as I said before, but this chassis is made to push! That's why it corners so flat! Trying to correct a problem that it is designed to do is going to be a dramatic change! And it would be doing the opposite of what it was designed for! Just like a Polaris is known for inside ski lift. The ski doo is known for a twitchy front end. If you have push put some body in it and touch the break a little bit so the front end bites a little bit and hit it! To much ski pressure your like Yamadog with crazy heavy steering, so you fixed one problem and created another one. No sled will give you easy steering and no push and no inside ski lift. So you will have to decide which one to fix and live with the others. My opinion is push can be controlled either with some body and breaking and won't really slow you down. Heavy steering takes a lot of muscle and have the potential of inside ski lift that will definitely slow you down! Maybe try slow into the apex of a corner use some body and get out fast. Every sled has some kind of compromise! Just pick which one you want!
MCApex44
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YamahaTim said:I know that know one want to hear this as I said before, but this chassis is made to push! That's why it corners so flat! Trying to correct a problem that it is designed to do is going to be a dramatic change! And it would be doing the opposite of what it was designed for! Just like a Polaris is known for inside ski lift. The ski doo is known for a twitchy front end. If you have push put some body in it and touch the break a little bit so the front end bites a little bit and hit it! To much ski pressure your like Yamadog with crazy heavy steering, so you fixed one problem and created another one. No sled will give you easy steering and no push and no inside ski lift. So you will have to decide which one to fix and live with the others. My opinion is push can be controlled either with some body and breaking and won't really slow you down. Heavy steering takes a lot of muscle and have the potential of inside ski lift that will definitely slow you down! Maybe try slow into the apex of a corner use some body and get out fast. Every sled has some kind of compromise! Just pick which one you want!
Bang...you hit the nail on the head! I am loving this chassis more and more every time I ride it. I tried Pilots and Curves but went back to the stock skis with 6" Double Downs (slim jims) and couldn't be happier. Its a controllable/manageable push which is taking care of by some body movement/rider input. I ride this sled hard and I am loving it. The steering is light/easy but it goes where I need it to go. Just put some a$$ into it. Imo, the seat and cowl on this sled are form fitted perfectly to get your rear-end off the sides and your knee up the side of the cowl. Feather some brake here and there and bingo...!
Yamadog
Lifetime Member
I agree to a point but he has an XTX and there is a huge diff.
You will never get an XTX to handle like the LTX
You will never get an XTX to handle like the LTX
YamahaTim
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Yamadog said:I agree to a point but he has an XTX and there is a huge diff.
You will never get an XTX to handle like the LTX
Very very true my friend! But the XTX was not designed to be a trail sled it was designed to be a off trail go play in the powder and boondocking. 30% trail 70% off trail. So basically the XTX would trail ride to find the hidden meadow of where ever you choose to go off trail. So if your trying to make the XTX handle like the LTX or RTX have fun! I know Yamadog and he is my buddy and we have ridden together a lot, and he has his XTX going pretty good down the trail, with some heavy steering, and some compromise with speed because of the power he has. He has a great set up. But he bought a XTX with no idea how to ride off trail...lmao just kidd'n he is a great rider and has a good set up for a XTX!
atk07
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My XTX is front 60 mid 2 threads from top and rear 120. Straps are loose, 141 studs n 8" doolys. Monday in UP it handled like a dream, Tuesday with fresh snow it needed middle loosened some. Like a rowing machine trying to steer if your in fields. Ended up going thru curve and come back out by trail where I went in and another rider did the same n T boned me. Got a displaced fracture medial rt tibia. Back home n can't be seen til Friday! Have fun adjusting for conditions. I weigh 260
YamahaTim
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atk07 said:My XTX is front 60 mid 2 threads from top and rear 120. Straps are loose, 141 studs n 8" doolys. Monday in UP it handled like a dream, Tuesday with fresh snow it needed middle loosened some. Like a rowing machine trying to steer if your in fields. Ended up going thru curve and come back out by trail where I went in and another rider did the same n T boned me. Got a displaced fracture medial rt tibia. Back home n can't be seen til Friday! Have fun adjusting for conditions. I weigh 260
So right now your broken?
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