Starter issue/Replacement Rod Failure

i STONGLY suggest you have the stator checked if any gears are chipped or missing. My starter gear went at 900 miles and was changed on warranty but stater was not checked. Then after warrant ran out the electrical system got weak and wouldn't keep up the voltage any more. i found this (picture).
I had to replace on my dime.
 

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thats kind of what I THOUGHT. should have never added turbo and have them change rods was trouble free for 1800 miles and they reflashed it
Odds are none of that has anything to do with the issue you have now. The more I think about this. It had to be your OneWay bearing failed causing the starter to burn up. You stated the engine locked up at 6000rpm. The ONLY way that can happen is if the OneWay is locked up both ways. Dealer needs to remove Sidecover and inspect for damage. Guarantee that at least the one way is bad.
 
If the starter stayed powered after startup it's possible it would cause damage to the one way clutch because it never fully spins free. He also stated that when the starter was removed the engine unlocked which makes me believe the magnets came loose in the starter and locked it up. I suppose the one way clutch could have locked for some reason after startup and spun the starter until it failed but regardless of what went on the biggest concern would be the stress that was put on the starter assembly when it stalled the engine at such a high RPM. The Turbo install probably wasn't the cause but the rod replacement would make me wonder if something wasn't done right during reassembly. One thing I've learned over the years from working in an auto/diesel repair shop and working on this stuff is that you look at what was done prior to a failure. Again, at the very least I'd be replacing starter, starter relay and possibly the one way clutch and idler gear.
 
If the starter stayed powered after startup it's possible it would cause damage to the one way clutch because it never fully spins free. He also stated that when the starter was removed the engine unlocked which makes me believe the magnets came loose in the starter and locked it up. I suppose the one way clutch could have locked for some reason after startup and spun the starter until it failed but regardless of what went on the biggest concern would be the stress that was put on the starter assembly when it stalled the engine at such a high RPM. The Turbo install probably wasn't the cause but the rod replacement would make me wonder if something wasn't done right during reassembly. One thing I've learned over the years from working in an auto/diesel repair shop and working on this stuff is that you look at what was done prior to a failure. Again, at the very least I'd be replacing starter, starter relay and possibly the one way clutch and idler gear.
Yes you are right of course. Dont you agree though that to kill the engine at 6000rpm the one way HAD to be locked up?
 
The one way had to be locked but the only way that should happen is when the starter rotates the gear into the locked position. I'm thinking the clutch locked during startup and remained locked then because the starter was spun with engine rpm's it overheated to the point the magnets dropped and locked the rotor which stalled the engine. Because the starter was locked up the clutch could never return to the unlocked position until the starter was removed.
 
The one way had to be locked but the only way that should happen is when the starter rotates the gear into the locked position. I'm thinking the clutch locked during startup and remained locked then because the starter was spun with engine rpm's it overheated to the point the magnets dropped and locked the rotor which stalled the engine. Because the starter was locked up the clutch could never return to the unlocked position until the starter was removed.
That makes sense. When inspecting the One Way bearing if the spring holding the Pawls has any deformity it is shot. Have seen that missed.
 
If I had a motor lock solid at 6000 rpm's it would be going back to the dealer for a full tear down and inspection under warranty. Who's to say it didn't bend or twist something internal.
 
If I had a motor lock solid at 6000 rpm's it would be going back to the dealer for a full tear down and inspection under warranty. Who's to say it didn't bend or twist something internal.
Cant believe the starter wasnt broke right off. We have seen that.
 
after returning home from a week and half vacation checked on sled that they thought had a stuck starter 2016 viper mtx with new rods and mpi turbo. quite a lot more happened center rod broke about half ways up and there was a stuck open valve don/t know if that is what caused rod to break plus case is broke. so getting new crate motor which Yamaha is going to send their own tech to help install only thing that won/t happen until dec 20th. so back to old reliable nytro. they claim new motor has the good rods . glad to have warranty
 
Like I said, You always look back at previous work performed when failures like these occur.

It doesn't surprise me that an engine failed after a dealer's service department did a rod replacement. Most delears's don't have tech's with enough experience to basically overhaul a 4 stroke engine. It was bound to happen.
 
finally seen new crate motor setting in the viper nice and shiney with good rods . been a long wait but it sure should be good to go now. quite a hole in the side of the block on old engine. middle rod wanted to get out
 


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