Starter repair for those without warranty

[yanrider]

Hi, I'm new here...and I would like to let you guys know (if you don't already) how to repair most of the starters that just "free spin"...When they are free spinning they are actually turning backwards! The reason this is happening is the middle starter casing is not indexed with the end caps, and the long bolts are getting loose (for some reason possibly lack of locktite), and I'm assuming the vibrations cause the middle casing to rotate. Now this casing has built in magnets, 2 positive and 2 negative, and they need to be lined up with the proper brushes. So if you loosen the two long bolts and just rotate back to the proper position with trial and error (using a battery to bench test it), or you take it apart and line it up that way until it turns counter clock wise when looking straight at the gear. Keep in mind if you take the starter apart it's a pain to het the get the armature back in the spring loaded brushes...

Hope this helps then non warranty guys

And another trick to remove the starter without removing the motor, is removing the skid plate, cutting out the 3/4" tube on on a 45 deg angle that's under starter, then you'll need to cut off the useless tab on the crankcase...then the starter comes out. You can then weld then tube back on or whatever...All this took me about one hour!!

If you can't find it grind it!

 

[Dodgeman]

Are you saying cut the lower frame tube?

 

[yanrider]

Are you saying cut the lower frame tube?

Ya the 3/4" tube that is on a 45 deg angle..about 6" long. I cut that out and welded on some tabs to be able to bolt it back in so it can be easily removed next time...looks like a foactory design hehe. I might even make a 1/4" aluminum skid plate instead of plastic so it will reinforce the structure...

 

[pz5]

or u could just take the subframe off its takes like 30 mins top theres five bolts on each side take off the rad unhook the steering then just pull it back far enough to get to the starter off

 

[DaveRX1]

You do not need to cut the frame to get the starter out. You can get the starter out thru the belly pan hole. I did use a cutoff wheel to remove the 3/4" square casting piece on the side of the crankcase. This piece is not used and does not need to be replaced.

Using the method, I can pull the starter and put it back in in 30 min or less.

 

[teerex]

any pics ?

 

[Dodgeman]

Ya the 3/4" tube that is on a 45 deg angle..about 6" long. I cut that out and welded on some tabs to be able to bolt it back in so it can be easily removed next time...looks like a foactory design hehe. I might even make a 1/4" aluminum skid plate instead of plastic so it will reinforce the structure...

Cutting the frame to fix the starter is ridiculous, and unnecessary. And if you get the starter out, Yamaha will likely give you a new one under warranty or goodwill.

 

[yanrider]

Ya the 3/4" tube that is on a 45 deg angle..about 6" long. I cut that out and welded on some tabs to be able to bolt it back in so it can be easily removed next time...looks like a foactory design hehe. I might even make a 1/4" aluminum skid plate instead of plastic so it will reinforce the structure...

Cutting the frame to fix the starter is ridiculous, and unnecessary. And if you get the starter out, Yamaha will likely give you a new one under warranty or goodwill.

Tried good will and warranty...nogo..I bought it used. And I also replaced my plastic skid plate with a custom aluminum one so now it's stiffer than ever!

 

[yanrider]

You do not need to cut the frame to get the starter out. You can get the starter out thru the belly pan hole. I did use a cutoff wheel to remove the 3/4" square casting piece on the side of the crankcase. This piece is not used and does not need to be replaced.

Using the method, I can pull the starter and put it back in in 30 min or less.

That's even better....wish I would of know!!...less word lol