Stator?

Also don't want to put the money in a dealer labor hours trying to find out the problem since I just am going to sell it anyways. Tough spot for me I guess.
 
Its pretty straightforward to eliminate the computer. For the computer to be the problem you would have voltage but no action. The main electrical system is all basic 12v relays and fuses. The computer only controls timing/diagnostics.
Check for 12v at the relay (red/blue wire), and check for it at the ignition (same color), that still feels like the problem. Check to make sure you are actually getting fuel (at the fuel rail). Make sure you are getting good spark (pull a plug and lay it near the head so you can check spark).

I suspect that if the stator was at fault the engine would fire but it would be hard starting (I had this problem, thank you very much @Stubby Hungwell ). It would catch, catch, catch, backfire, backfire, turn over but not really run. Testing the stator and pickup require a milliohm meter. I tried to get clever and build a circuit to do this and never could get a good measurement, stubby said 'just swap it' and we did, and it worked.
 
Thanks earthling, that's something that I can try this week. I had to walk away as it just seems like I'm going no where. I know I can get it with patience and beer. If that don't work I'll let ya know to see if you have any other thoughts. Thanks again.
 
I don't know if you checked the pick up coil? Resistance should be 446-545 ohms at 68° ( Gray- Black) wires at stator plug. My 07 did the hard start backfire bit for one time. Rode it the rest of the day stopped and started fine. Went to put it away and just cranked over no start. Replaced the pick up coil and stator started right up. I did check resistance to be sure and it was out of spec.
 
I just had my dad's 06 that was hard starting and then finally got to the point where it wouldn't act like it wanted to start at all. Just cranked and cranked. Swapped the stator and it fired right up. It isnt too hard to do. I bought a used OEM stator from Travis at BOP instead of the aftermarket one
 
Alright, thanks guys. Kill switch is on, relays all new, solenoid is new, 12 volts directly to pump makes it run, cluster lights up like normal, cranks over fine, new battery, all ground blocks done. This quit on me last year while riding. It just shut off from 45mph and would not start. Buddy looked up a code and it was something to do with atmospheric something.

On my apex my sled would randomly die. Then it would start. Then randomly die again. I noticed it seemed to be more often on bumpy trails. I checked the codes and it threw an atmospheric pressure code.
It took me a ton of time to find it but there was a pink wire up in the nose of the sled that had rubbed through the harness and was shorting out.
This wire went to the pressure sensor located in the nose of the sled.
 
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I wouldn't think atmospheric pressure (I guess barometric pressure) would be a critical fault. You would think it would just default to sea level and throw a warning, unless the intermittent short was causing it to think it was at 100,000 feet :)

Just looked it up. Turning the key on and off, or even turning the kill switch on/off should reset it enough to start.
 
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when I had my SC on my apex and would throw that code I think it was 20?? I would have to disconnect the aftermarket fuel programmer to get the code to reset and the sled to start. are you running a fuel controller at all? Do you have a code now?
 
I’ve replaced several pick-up coils on several different Apex sleds. Some seem to pop a code on the display, others do not, no ryme or reason for this. All sleds I’ve seen that needed one showed an OL or open circuit when tested with a decent ohm meter.
 
Thanks all, that gives me hope when I get to work on it again.
Sounds like a pickup coil, check as previously mentioned, happen on my RX1 just like that.
 


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