Pretty sure if you read my post I made it clear that the number on instructions was for 2 stroke. Just get the 4 stroke kit.I would like to inform all of you that the Cat 2707-496 Steering Post Mounting Bracket Kit is actually made for the 2-strokes and NOT the 4-strokes. The steering post holes in the brackets are not in the same position as the original brackets. This moves the ball joint of the steering post further to the right of the sled. When you put it back together, the handlebar will be cocked to the right.
To fix this new problem you will now need the 1605-072 drag link from the 2-strokes. This drag link is 6.6 mm longer than the 4-stroke version. I know this because I just had to order the new drag link to cure the handle bar angle. You cannot adjust it out with the tie rod adjustment. If you try, the adjustment will be all one way.
A better cure for the issue is to go to the parts list and buy the correct brackets for a 2017 or newer. Get the steering stop, the reinforcement bracket, the steering post brace and 19 rivets. You then do not need to waste money on a new drag link. I do not know why there are two designs of these parts. The 2-storke stuff seems to fit OK and the steering post does not seem to rub on anything. In my opinion, the 2-stroke parts look a little bit stronger but will cost more to change over.
This kit17 and up brackets have an additional steel gusset riveted to them. Yamaha offers an upgrade kit. Part number: SMA-8JPST-BR-KT
Big Pussy
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Too bad you didn't post the part # for the 4-stroke kit. I have no idea how to find it. Too late for me.Pretty sure if you read my post I made it clear that the number on instructions was for 2 stroke. Just get the 4 stroke kit.
I threw it all away when I put it in my sled and Travis posted it already. SMA-8JPST-BR-KTToo bad you didn't post the part # for the 4-stroke kit. I have no idea how to find it. Too late for me.
Did you ask anyone?
Big Pussy
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- 2015 XF7000 LXR
Since this thread is titled Steering Slop, I will show you how to get rid of it.
When you have that aluminum steering post brace removed to install your kit, remove the bolts from the drag link, and both tie rods. Remove the long 6mm bolt and washers that hold the steering crank on the cast nose of the sled. Pull up the steering crank and remove it. Now knock out the two plastic flanged bushings in the casting. Replace with two bronze bushings that you use for the top gear in the chaincase.
Polish the paint off the pivot tube on the steering crank. Ream and polish the bronze bushings for a nice snug fit. There your slop is gone. Now drill a small grease passage in the front of the casting just below the black steel cone, that comes out BETWEEN the two bronze bushings. Drill and tap the first of the passage deep enough to install a 45 deg zerk. Install with red Loctite and point it up. Install the steering crank with a 1" ID x 1/16" thick washer on the top and the bottom and replace all the fasteners and tie rods, drag link first. The front plastic nose will need a hole drilled below the bolt bulge for the grease fitting to come through.
Now, when you remove the hood, you can give the bushings a shot of grease through the fitting down in the center passage of the plastic nose cone.
I would post pictures but they seem to be too big for the server.
When you have that aluminum steering post brace removed to install your kit, remove the bolts from the drag link, and both tie rods. Remove the long 6mm bolt and washers that hold the steering crank on the cast nose of the sled. Pull up the steering crank and remove it. Now knock out the two plastic flanged bushings in the casting. Replace with two bronze bushings that you use for the top gear in the chaincase.
Polish the paint off the pivot tube on the steering crank. Ream and polish the bronze bushings for a nice snug fit. There your slop is gone. Now drill a small grease passage in the front of the casting just below the black steel cone, that comes out BETWEEN the two bronze bushings. Drill and tap the first of the passage deep enough to install a 45 deg zerk. Install with red Loctite and point it up. Install the steering crank with a 1" ID x 1/16" thick washer on the top and the bottom and replace all the fasteners and tie rods, drag link first. The front plastic nose will need a hole drilled below the bolt bulge for the grease fitting to come through.
Now, when you remove the hood, you can give the bushings a shot of grease through the fitting down in the center passage of the plastic nose cone.
I would post pictures but they seem to be too big for the server.
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