Sasquatch
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Allen head socket is a great design! Problem is people using the wrong size allen wrench! That is how they get stripped. It like the rest of the sled is metric.
You could maybe try cutting a slot in the shoulder of the screw with a dremel, then use an old standard screwdriver or a cold chisel with the point filled flat to tap it counter clockwise. Heating it up carefully so you don't melt aluminum would make it turn easier.
You could maybe try cutting a slot in the shoulder of the screw with a dremel, then use an old standard screwdriver or a cold chisel with the point filled flat to tap it counter clockwise. Heating it up carefully so you don't melt aluminum would make it turn easier.
RoyalBlue
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grader said:use an 8 inch pipe wrench on the outside of it.
Pull out the Big Gunz

IA Rider
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Like Sasquatch said allen head socket is a great design when the proper size in good condition not rounded is used with the proper torque. I would give it a couple of direct taps with a SMALL hammer to decompress the washer then try the cold chisel trick. Prabably won't even need heat.
sx7001
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IMO, I wouldn't even bother with it. Just drain the tank and change the filter.
Rich Kay
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X2 on the cold chisel trick....Small cold chisel that is sharp and catch the very outer edge of the bolt head counter clockwise has worked for me many times when there is no other choice. Then just replace with a new one. I only snug up that bolt when putting back in and have never had a problem.Sasquatch said:Allen head socket is a great design! Problem is people using the wrong size allen wrench! That is how they get stripped. It like the rest of the sled is metric.
You could maybe try cutting a slot in the shoulder of the screw with a dremel, then use an old standard screwdriver or a cold chisel with the point filled flat to tap it counter clockwise. Heating it up carefully so you don't melt aluminum would make it turn easier.
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Heat it up with a small torch and it will come loose way easier.
LSXM3
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Irv said:Good way to snap it right off imo, but hey, if it works for you then what do I know?LSXM3 said:i always use an impact driver to remove it, just put the allen socket in the driver end and 1 tap with the hammer and shes out.
Impact driver not an Impact gun, like this one
an impact driver is a tool that delivers a strong, sudden rotational and downward force. In conjunction with toughened screwdriver bits and socket sets, they are often used by mechanics to loosen larger screws (bolts) and nuts that are corrosively "frozen" or over-torqued. The direction can also be reversed for situations where screws have to be tightened with torque greater than a screwdriver can reasonably provide.
A manual impact driver with screwdriver bits and adapters
Manual impact drivers consist of a heavy outer sleeve that surrounds an inner core that is splined to it. The spline is curved so that when the user strikes the outer sleeve with a hammer, its downward force works on the spline to produce turning force on the core and any socket or work bit attached to it. The tool translates the heavy rotational inertia of the sleeve to the lighter core to generate large amounts of torque. At the same time, the striking blow from the hammer forces the impact driver down into the screw reducing or eliminating cam out. This attribute is most beneficial for Philips screws which normally cam out as part of their design. It is less beneficial for slot head screws and is not beneficial at all for most other types.
Works like a charm every time and never ever damaged a tip or bolt using it!
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
LSXM3 said:Irv said:Good way to snap it right off imo, but hey, if it works for you then what do I know?LSXM3 said:i always use an impact driver to remove it, just put the allen socket in the driver end and 1 tap with the hammer and shes out.
Impact driver not an Impact gun, like this one
an impact driver is a tool that delivers a strong, sudden rotational and downward force. In conjunction with toughened screwdriver bits and socket sets, they are often used by mechanics to loosen larger screws (bolts) and nuts that are corrosively "frozen" or over-torqued. The direction can also be reversed for situations where screws have to be tightened with torque greater than a screwdriver can reasonably provide.
A manual impact driver with screwdriver bits and adapters
Manual impact drivers consist of a heavy outer sleeve that surrounds an inner core that is splined to it. The spline is curved so that when the user strikes the outer sleeve with a hammer, its downward force works on the spline to produce turning force on the core and any socket or work bit attached to it. The tool translates the heavy rotational inertia of the sleeve to the lighter core to generate large amounts of torque. At the same time, the striking blow from the hammer forces the impact driver down into the screw reducing or eliminating cam out. This attribute is most beneficial for Philips screws which normally cam out as part of their design. It is less beneficial for slot head screws and is not beneficial at all for most other types.![]()
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Works like a charm every time and never ever damaged a tip or bolt using it!
Ooops, thought you meant " Gun", sorry

SRXSRULE2
Expert
I agree with LSXM3 this is a great tool to have. You can put a variety of bits and even sockets on them. Good for stuff like this. I use mine quite often, works great for getting those flush mount brake master phillips screws out.
suprfst
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Best trick I use is find a torx bit thats little too big and pound it into the allen bolt. Its worked every time ive ever tried it. Make sure its all the way in before trying to turn it.
JROCK
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Get yourself an 8mm triple square 3/8" socket and smash it into the stripped 6mm allen head! I also have stripped many 6mm allen head bolts doing vw diesel timing belts. Works like a charm just make sure you get it to bottom in the bolt.
arteeex
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I'd just buy a new sled.
RoyalBlue
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arteeex said:I'd just buy a new sled.
10 4 on the New Sled , I am semi retired I was looking for a basket case and that is what I got , I took the demensions and the dreaded Button Bolt down to the local machine shop to see if they could machine a few bolts.
BTW I got it out with Vise Grips and a good 3 day soak with PB Blaster.
Thanks
Svartstreck
Extreme
suprfst said:Best trick I use is find a torx bit thats little too big and pound it into the allen bolt. Its worked every time ive ever tried it. Make sure its all the way in before trying to turn it.
Works like a charm every time
Soldier'spapa
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I have replaced the allen head drain plugs in my sleds with magnetic hex head drain plugs...even got them from my Yammi dealer. They are much easier to deal with.
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