Stub shaft Bearing behind clutch noise?

[Pries]

Instead of removing the stub shaft with a slide hammer type of action (this can damage the balls in the bearings), I made a puller out of a piece of half inch thick steel plate that is about 7" long and about 3" wide. I drilled a hole in the center big enough for the clutch bolt to pass through. So once you have the 4x 10mm bearing retainer bolts out and the 2x 12mm case bolts on either side of the bearing retainer loosened, I screwed the bolt with the plate onto the stub shaft, then cut a couple pieces of wood about 5 5/8" long (equal lengths) and placed them under either side of the bearing retainer against the flat spots on crankcase where the halves join. I then simply started to screw in the clutch bolt which pulled the stub shaft with bearing retainer straight out of the case. I also found that the bearing was a little rough. This would be a good time to replace the 6307RU bearing or regrease it (don't use too much grease though as it will cause the bearing to heat up and fail)


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[Sevey]

Question - if the exercise is to replace the bearing, why be concerned about damaging the balls with the slide hammer? In the end, it didn't take that hard of impact to release it. only a few strokes and it was on its way.

The lubricant in that bearing is almost like a paste. I would be cautious about using any old grease. It is subject to considerable heat.

MS

 

[Pries]

I used a big bearing separator and press to get the bearing off of the shaft.


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[STAIN]

It seems this bearing is on national backorder............

 

[Sevey]

That sucks.
I had called skf and their bearing wasn't rated for the high rpm's. I also called Koyo and they couldn't even get the bearing. it pointed me right back to Yamaha. That was a specific bearing made just for them.

Good luck.
MS

 

[cannondale27]

Crap. Been thinking about this for my Viper which is almost at 10,000 mi. How about just popping the seal and regreasing with Isoflex grease like Doo uses in its crank bearings?

I am changing the title of this since it's a Stub shaft not Gear Reduction. Thanks.

 

[STAIN]

10k on your Viper? Well done!! I might have been there if not for last years poor weather.
Off topic, but I am a tinkerer. I cant leave any thing alone. Every time I ride, any sled, I am thinking of areas to improve on. Yesterday while riding my Viper I thought " This sled is almost perfect, clutching--right on, ride--awesome, handling--beautiful, seating position--perfect, power---enough for now, now what am I going to do??" It took me 7.5 k to get it that way, but I did!!!

 

[Sevey]

Speaking to my dealer, this bearing usually does not become an issue until you roll past 20,000km, approx 15,000 miles.

My sled was at 17,000 km and I plan on running it 2 more seasons so I decided to do it this past summer.

As for greasing - if you can get that seal out without damaging it, you are a better man than I am. For fun, I tried when it was off and couldn't do it without damaging it. That seal is quite thick compared to other bearings.

A friend of mine opted to clean his bearing, drill a small hole through the seal and pump some grease into it. Then put a dab of high temp silicone on it to re-seal. The problem I have with that is - if one small piece of the filing gets left inside the bearing it's game over. That seal is pretty thick, it's not thing like the idler wheel bearings. Also, I would want to research the proper grease to put in there. When I had mine apart it appears to be packed with an isoflex type grease. It's like a paste

Let us know what you decide.
MS

 

[cannondale27]

10k on your Viper? Well done!! I might have been there if not for last years poor weather.
Off topic, but I am a tinkerer. I cant leave any thing alone. Every time I ride, any sled, I am thinking of areas to improve on. Yesterday while riding my Viper I thought " This sled is almost perfect, clutching--right on, ride--awesome, handling--beautiful, seating position--perfect, power---enough for now, now what am I going to do??" It took me 7.5 k to get it that way, but I did!!!

I am about there too. But I am afraid to say that fatigue and crappy bolts will bring about a new set of challenges for you once you get up in mi. I highly suggest upgrading all parts possible as early as possible to RR type shafts in the skid and tunnel. I am doing more. Check out the latest.

 

[cannondale27]

Speaking to my dealer, this bearing usually does not become an issue until you roll past 20,000km, approx 15,000 miles.

My sled was at 17,000 km and I plan on running it 2 more seasons so I decided to do it this past summer.

As for greasing - if you can get that seal out without damaging it, you are a better man than I am. For fun, I tried when it was off and couldn't do it without damaging it. That seal is quite thick compared to other bearings.

A friend of mine opted to clean his bearing, drill a small hole through the seal and pump some grease into it. Then put a dab of high temp silicone on it to re-seal. The problem I have with that is - if one small piece of the filing gets left inside the bearing it's game over. That seal is pretty thick, it's not thing like the idler wheel bearings. Also, I would want to research the proper grease to put in there. When I had mine apart it appears to be packed with an isoflex type grease. It's like a paste

Let us know what you decide.
MS

Thanks. You just saved me a bunch of time. Looks like this spring I will just buy a new bearing or the whole assembly. Its the only bearing in the sled that I haven't replaced although all were in good shape this spring. Plan on running it another 10000.

 

[Sevey]

The entire assembly is crazy expensive. Its $735cdn. The bearing is only $60cdn, and $15cdn for a new seal.

Judging by your past posts Cannondale I am pretty sure you are easily capable (that's a compliment) to pull the shaft assembly off, press the bearing off, press the new one on.

I bought a shop press this summer for this job and managed. Screwed up a little but got it done in the end. Its nice piece of mind.
MS

 

[Pries]

The entire assembly is crazy expensive. Its $735cdn. The bearing is only $60cdn, and $15cdn for a new seal.

Judging by your past posts Cannondale I am pretty sure you are easily capable (that's a compliment) to pull the shaft assembly off, press the bearing off, press the new one on.

I bought a shop press this summer for this job and managed. Screwed up a little but got it done in the end. Its nice piece of mind.
MS

You got a price for the seal? Who is the manufacturer and what is the part number?


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[Sevey]

If you look at the Yamaha parts catalogue (on line) you have to look at model year 2012 or newer to see this shaft assembly as individual parts. For my 2010, it shows it as one part for $730.

The part on Yamaha.ca is described as: Oil Seal - 93102-45008

Hope that helps. I cant see doing this job without removing the old seal. You need to cut the old one out with a pair tin snips to make room to place 2 half inch plates along the bearing, to press it off the shaft.

I spoke to an individual who used a side grinder to cut the bearing off the shaft, but trust me - don't do it this way. Cut the seal.

Let me know if you need more.
MS

 

[Pries]

If you look at the Yamaha parts catalogue (on line) you have to look at model year 2012 or newer to see this shaft assembly as individual parts. For my 2010, it shows it as one part for $730.

The part on Yamaha.ca is described as: Oil Seal - 93102-45008

Hope that helps. I cant see doing this job without removing the old seal. You need to cut the old one out with a pair tin snips to make room to place 2 half inch plates along the bearing, to press it off the shaft.

I spoke to an individual who used a side grinder to cut the bearing off the shaft, but trust me - don't do it this way. Cut the seal.

Let me know if you need more.
MS

Thanks but I have a 2008 nytro and the seal is not available separately actually, neither is the bearing. One must buy the whole assembly from Yamaha for that crazy price.


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[Sevey]

They didn't start offering that 'shaft assembly' as individual parts until 2012. The part number I outlined will fit your machine. Mine is a 2010 and I came across the same dilemma until someone made me aware of this.

You can get the individual bearing for approx. $60 and the seal for $15 and you are off to the races.

Whats interesting is that identical assembly is used throughout all 1049 engines, nytros, vectors, vipers and now sidewinders.

Let me know if you need more info.
MS