Studding a higher mileage track

[twyztid]

Picking up a 2012 Apex XTX next weekend. The sled has 7500 miles on the original, unstudded track (which looks good). The owner is the 2nd owner of the sled and bought it when the sled was 2 years old. I believe the majority of the miles were put on by an older rider and it was probably not "beat on".

With that said, I run all studded tracks and would want a studded track on this sled. Do you think I'd be alright studding this one to get 2000-3000 more miles out of it? This will be a backup sled and may only get maybe 500-600 miles a season. I also don't want to spend the cost of a new track until I know for sure that we want to keep this sled for a while. I have some studs/backers (171) and won't have more than about $300 into studding this one. Just wondering your opinions if I should or shouldn't for this "backup" sled?

 

[Kurt J]

Picking up a 2012 Apex XTX next weekend. The sled has 7500 miles on the original, unstudded track (which looks good). The owner is the 2nd owner of the sled and bought it when the sled was 2 years old. I believe the majority of the miles were put on by an older rider and it was probably not "beat on".

With that said, I run all studded tracks and would want a studded track on this sled. Do you think I'd be alright studding this one to get 2000-3000 more miles out of it? This will be a backup sled and may only get maybe 500-600 miles a season. I also don't want to spend the cost of a new track until I know for sure that we want to keep this sled for a while. I have some studs/backers (171) and won't have more than about $300 into studding this one. Just wondering your opinions if I should or shouldn't for this "backup" sled?

Normally I like having a studded track, but in your situation I might suggest a different option. Knowing your track could be nearing the end, you may want to use a screw in product, like Igrip. I tried screw in studs (120 in a ripsaw 1.5) for the first time last season. It didn’t feel as solidly planted as a traditional 96 stud track, but definitely had more grip than a studless track. It’s worth considering, in your situation.

 

[twyztid]

Normally I like having a studded track, but in your situation I might suggest a different option. Knowing your track could be nearing the end, you may want to use a screw in product, like Igrip. I tried screw in studs (120 in a ripsaw 1.5) for the first time last season. It didn’t feel as solidly planted as a traditional 96 stud track, but definitely had more grip than a studless track. It’s worth considering, in your situation.

No, I don't want a screw-in stud. Normal studs... or replace the track. The thing is that I am not 100% sure we'll even like this sled (XTX vs 128" mono) and I am already going to be buying the Star kit, shock revealing, etc for it and want to limit what I spend on it until I know that we like it. Once I know that we like it (may take a couple of season since it is a spare), I'll put a new track with better studs in it. I just know that we will not like it at all if it isn't studded.

 

[RAMSOMAIR]

I would have zero issues studding that track.

 

[Upstater57]

I would not stud a ten-year-old/7500-mile track for the first time. I would replace it with a new studded track. That old track will stretch when you put the studs in and may rip/tear easier. I think a 10-year-old track that is doing normal high-speed riding should be replaced for safety. My views are based on having an older studded track spit out the back at 100 mph some years ago after it delaminated (not fun). The weight of the rotating mass (studs) and the bite of the studs will shock that old track. Others may disagree.

I view car tires the same. 10 years and done regardless of mileage. Rubber does not age well. My exception would be for old vintage sleds or cars that are puttering around not subjected to normal duty.

 

[twyztid]

I would not stud a ten-year-old/7500-mile track for the first time. I would replace it with a new studded track. That old track will stretch when you put the studs in and may rip/tear easier. I think a 10-year-old track that is doing normal high-speed riding should be replaced for safety. My views are based on having an older studded track spit out the back at 100 mph some years ago after it delaminated (not fun). The weight of the rotating mass (studs) and the bite of the studs will shock that old track. Others may disagree.

I view car tires the same. 10 years and done regardless of mileage. Rubber does not age well. My exception would be for old vintage sleds or cars that are puttering around not subjected to normal duty.

I hear you. That ran across my mind too. We like to ride hard at times and, although we may not use this one that much, I still don't want to worry every time we DO ride it.

 

[74Nitro]

I wouldn't stud it with that many miles and eleven years old.
Too risky.

 

[Teamblue4]

I wouldn't stud that track, I replace all our tracks @6000 miles.

 

[Fast Lane]

I wouldn't as well. My original ripsaw was great then quickly started falling apart. I wouldn't waste anytime on an old track.

 

[twyztid]

Thanks guys. I'll be ordering a new track. It's really too bad they don't offer the Ripsaw 2 in the 144" size. That is a superior trail track over the original Ripsaw.

 

[Teamblue4]

Thanks guys. I'll be ordering a new track. It's really too bad they don't offer the Ripsaw 2 in the 144" size. That is a superior trail track over the original Ripsaw.

CB Performance has the best price on tracks, I agree, I want a ripsaw 2 in 144 but they don't make them.

 

[74Nitro]

I still think the original ripsaw provides excellent traction.

 

[twyztid]

I still think the original ripsaw provides excellent traction.

They don't hookup anywhere near as good as the Ripsaw 2 in looser conditions... but are very good for harder conditions. I've run both on our 06 Apex GT and both on our 12 Vector LTX. I think the Ripsaw 2 is more durable as well.

 

[Stubbs]

If the surface of the snow is like cement nothing beats an original rip, and it’s still the “fastest” 1.25 lug track if top speed is your thang. I do agree a rip II works better in looser conditions, it’s more like the old Predator/Carve/6 pitch 1.25. I loved those tracks on trail sleds.

 

[Fast Lane]

I hated the original Ripsaw. Its ok on the trail but any loose snow you are done for. Trench to China. I put 11,000 kms on it. Ripsaw 2 looks great but I couldn't find one in Canada. Mixed reviews of the Cobra track from Polaris guys. Great in off trail but not long life.