Studding the tuned ltx sidewinder help

[Sledbrapping88]

Hey guys I looking to stud my 18 ltx se but was wondering what stud to go with between ins hornet,stud boy lake racers, woodys triggers. Now I'm ok with either one but what matter to me is stud penetration I want 1/2 to 9/16 of penetration over the lug now I'm a trail rider/racer but mainly trail riding I would go with traditional studs but I get icy conditions where i ride. Also with 1/2 to 9/16 of penetration what stud count would be prefer with hurricane ss 270 tune for trail/race for good hookup but not max traction any help would much great.

 

[titanrcr]

Hey guys I looking to stud my 18 ltx se but was wondering what stud to go with between ins hornet,stud boy lake racers, woodys triggers. Now I'm ok with either one but what matter to me is stud penetration I want 1/2 to 9/16 of penetration over the lug now I'm a trail rider/racer but mainly trail riding I would go with traditional studs but I get icy conditions where i ride. Also with 1/2 to 9/16 of penetration what stud count would be prefer with hurricane ss 270 tune for trail/race for good hookup but not max traction any help would much great.

1.63 Triggers work very well on an 1 1/4 lug track. Very durable stud and they will hook up. I run them at 240 hp and have a few friends running them at higher hp and they work great.

 

[Turboflash]

IMO, Triggers or Lake Racers (they are very similar). 1.630" for 1.25" track. 192 of them.

 

[Sledbrapping88]

With the triggers/studboy what is penetration with those length of studs only looking for 1/2 to 9/16 over the track.

 

[Sledbrapping88]

IMO, Triggers or Lake Racers (they are very similar). 1.630" for 1.25" track. 192 of them.

If I remember correctly you did 192 stud boy all double up the middle. Any problems with drivers or ruin anything in suspension and who stud template did you use.

 

[Turboflash]

Yes, 192 all in center. This works for me but probably not for everyone (i.e. I pay attention to what my track is on before pulling trigger!). Some might say this type of stud is not for trail riding (I bet StudBoy & Woodys website say that). All last year (about 2000 miles) I only cracked 2-3 backers and lost maybe 3 tips off my studs. I consider this normal.
My track runs really quiet and no wear on drivers. All wheels in skid look great. I just used an "arrow" pattern which is very common.
I spent allot of time countersinking the heads of my studs into my track, including the "quiet pads." I made a special hole drill to put the hole in for stud and cut a 15/16" dia. circle (diameter of my stud head) into track. Then, I used a die grinder to remove the rubber inside the circle. I had a stop in hole drill so it only cut about 1/16-3/32" deep (thickness of head). Result was stud heads very flush to inside of track. Wheels don't don't even know they're there.
BTW if you decide to use StudBoy Prolite backers, they recommended to tap them prior to installing stud for maximum grip and thread strength. This setup is 15% lighter than aluminum but may not be quite as strong. IDK. Works for me.

 

[Sledbrapping88]

Yes, 192 all in center. This works for me but probably not for everyone (i.e. I pay attention to what my track is on before pulling trigger!). Some might say this type of stud is not for trail riding (I bet StudBoy & Woodys website say that). All last year (about 2000 miles) I only cracked 2-3 backers and lost maybe 3 tips off my studs. I consider this normal.
My track runs really quiet and no wear on drivers. All wheels in skid look great. I just used an "arrow" pattern which is very common.
I spent allot of time countersinking the heads of my studs into my track, including the "quiet pads." I made a special hole drill to put the hole in for stud and cut a 15/16" dia. circle (diameter of my stud head) into track. Then, I used a die grinder to remove the rubber inside the circle. I had a stop in hole drill so it only cut about 1/16-3/32" deep (thickness of head). Result was stud heads very flush to inside of track. Wheels don't don't even know they're there.
BTW if you decide to use StudBoy Prolite backers, they recommended to tap them prior to installing stud for maximum grip and thread strength. This setup is 15% lighter than aluminum but may not be quite as strong. IDK. Works for me.

Do you think there would be a problem without the tool and if so do you have picture of what you used

 

[Turboflash]

No, embedding heads is optional. It's just me wanting it quiet and not have wheels banging over stud heads. LOL
Here is a pic of a similar tool I used. It's not the exact one cuz that one is at my shop but you get the idea here. Cut hole for stud, cut circle for head.

Also, jeff_yam posted a pic of a flat type hole drill with a stud drill welded to it.
Have fun!