Team Tonka
Newbie
I’m studing a 2019 SRX with stock 1” track.
Using Studboy 1.625 lake racer. The studs will stick out 7/8” over top of lug. Plan to add stm protectors. Want to stud center of track, don’t plan to protect center of rear heat exchanger.
My question is, with this length, do I need to be concerned about the stud hitting the center of the rear heat exchanger or center of tunnel?
Using Studboy 1.625 lake racer. The studs will stick out 7/8” over top of lug. Plan to add stm protectors. Want to stud center of track, don’t plan to protect center of rear heat exchanger.
My question is, with this length, do I need to be concerned about the stud hitting the center of the rear heat exchanger or center of tunnel?
With that length stud on that track I'd be scared they would bend or tear out.
Team Tonka
Newbie
Haven’t had any problems in the past. You need to use common sense.
Several thousand miles 7/8” over lug, no pullouts.
Ran them in my turbo cat at 260 trail, 330 race.
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2004
- Messages
- 4,695
- Location
- Welch MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2023 Sidewinder LTX-LE
2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
I've never been a fan of long studs like this. The longer they are the easier they just fold back and don't hook up anyway. Puts too much pressure on the track and will rip out very easy on a trail sled.
Max legal length on a drag race sled is 3/4" over the lug and I never came close to that, but always beat the guys who did go to legal length. IMO traction lines and proper pattern is much more important that going longer. Also more important is making them "angled back" into the ice like a cats claw. All long studs do is flex back the wrong way easier and give up traction rather than help traction.
If you watch any sled at speed, the tips of the studs just ride on top of the ice, they don't even penetrate 1/8" into the ice.
If you go that far above the lug you better have protection in the tunnel that it doesn't tear it up.
Max legal length on a drag race sled is 3/4" over the lug and I never came close to that, but always beat the guys who did go to legal length. IMO traction lines and proper pattern is much more important that going longer. Also more important is making them "angled back" into the ice like a cats claw. All long studs do is flex back the wrong way easier and give up traction rather than help traction.
If you watch any sled at speed, the tips of the studs just ride on top of the ice, they don't even penetrate 1/8" into the ice.
If you go that far above the lug you better have protection in the tunnel that it doesn't tear it up.
I went 1.520's with stms front and rear....I have 1.640's but felt that was too much
You will be fine. Keep track tight.
I went with 1.450 triggers and full STM’s plan to use a Woodys stud pattern 3-5-3-5 with studs in the center of the track.
The 1.450’s will work better on the lake then the longer 1.630’s for the high speed runs but the 1.630’s would work better in snow but unfortunately we just haven’t been having good winters with lots of snow depth on groomed trails.
I went with 1.450 triggers and full STM’s plan to use a Woodys stud pattern 3-5-3-5 with studs in the center of the track.
The 1.450’s will work better on the lake then the longer 1.630’s for the high speed runs but the 1.630’s would work better in snow but unfortunately we just haven’t been having good winters with lots of snow depth on groomed trails.
