Bill-winnipesaukee
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- 08 Yamaha rs venture 2up
05 Yamaha rs rage 1up
OK - confirmed that the fuel pump is supplying fine, put back together, had it run for 90 plus seconds without spraying fuel / ether into carbs.. won't accelerate, trying to get it to run for 10 minutes so i can run another oil change, thinking of taking to the shop now for the carb cleaning...
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- 2016 apex xtx
2011 apex xtx
2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
Bypass the tors with it on a stand to see if it will run up. Might just be water in the switches.
markt111
Expert
how did you make out? is it running?
I'm about half way down Alton Bay same side, wont be lake running any more this year....
I'm about half way down Alton Bay same side, wont be lake running any more this year....
Bill-winnipesaukee
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- 08 Yamaha rs venture 2up
05 Yamaha rs rage 1up
Maim - What do you mean by bypass the TORS? One clarification is that the belt is off, so i am not dealing with the drivetrain at all at the moment, other than the gearbox is filled with mystery oil to avoid rusting...
Couldn't get to the shop in time, anyone know of a good youtube on cleaning out the carbs? I am back from a work trip on Friday, and could try it, but a bit intimidated. Missed the opportunity to have the shop do it while i was away...
Couldn't get to the shop in time, anyone know of a good youtube on cleaning out the carbs? I am back from a work trip on Friday, and could try it, but a bit intimidated. Missed the opportunity to have the shop do it while i was away...
- Joined
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- Messages
- 7,745
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- sudbury on
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- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2016 apex xtx
2011 apex xtx
2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
tors= throttle override sysem
there is a block on the bottom of the idle adjustment screw that is part of the system. just unplug the wires and plug them together to test. do not reccomend running on trail or lake with system bypassed as the throttle can now stick wot and the sled runs away. on the stand to test, should be fine to see if it will run up.
there is a block on the bottom of the idle adjustment screw that is part of the system. just unplug the wires and plug them together to test. do not reccomend running on trail or lake with system bypassed as the throttle can now stick wot and the sled runs away. on the stand to test, should be fine to see if it will run up.
Bill-winnipesaukee
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- 08 Yamaha rs venture 2up
05 Yamaha rs rage 1up
Update - can run from fuel sprayed into carb for several minutes. Took to dealer to get carbs and fuel pump rebuild. Now they say need new carbs pumps and clean out tank for 2000 usd. They don’t want to rebuild...
That is too much for this sled, do people think a rebuild would really not work?
That is too much for this sled, do people think a rebuild would really not work?
Bill-winnipesaukee
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- 08 Yamaha rs venture 2up
05 Yamaha rs rage 1up
Update - can run from fuel sprayed into carb for several minutes. Took to dealer to get carbs and fuel pump rebuild. Now they say need new carbs pumps and clean out tank for 2000 usd. They don’t want to rebuild...
That is too much for this sled, do people think a rebuild would really not work?
I can buy new carb assembly with all 3 carbs on line for 650. Fuel pump around 100. Thinking of doing it myself if rebuild idea is no good
- Joined
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- 7,745
- Location
- sudbury on
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- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2016 apex xtx
2011 apex xtx
2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
the carbs need to be cleaned for sure. https://totallyamaha.com/Totallyamaha/mainTechIndex.html under snomobile tecare a bunch of how to for cleaning carbs. just use the rx1 instructions for the top of your carbs as they are the same style.
Bill-winnipesaukee
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05 Yamaha rs rage 1up
Hello All - here's the latest - went to the shop, and found out that due to corrosion (i think on the sled overall) the mechanic felt a rebuild would be problematic. However, he checked compression out, all good, and ran it from a remote fuel supply directly to the carb rails. It ran fairly well, but seems like they didn't want to really deal with the labor only problems, so i took it home. They also pointed out they thought water was definitely in the tank...
I pulled the tank, which wasn't that bad...
- Remove seat rest (had done already)
- Remove back seat section (had done already)
- Remove section below back seat section (middle), 2 screws to the chassis, 4 to the side grips, unclip on back sections to get it out - now you can see seat rear bolts
- Remove main seat, 2 back bolts and slides out very easy
- Remove tank bolts, 2 on back, below seat
- Remove gas lines from front, also unclip gas gauge electronics
- I had also removed the side panels that are above foot rests, not sure that is a must
- In screw 4 screws holding tank cover, where tank fill is
- This was the confusing part, take the fill cover off, and wrestle the rubber piece out of the tank cover, by pushing it DOWN, and the tank cover up
- Now you just slide the tank out
- Better to have already siphoned the tank, so it doesn't spill out of the fill tubes
- Drain last upside down
- put in some more, drain out, repeat 2-3 times in my opinion
- remember, i had already removed the filters, i would probably also do that first
- i put back together and put on new filters, tank was definitely dry and clean
separately, i blew out the hoses, and lightly thru the diaphragm pumps
started the machine with the carb rails not hooked up, put a little pressure in the tank (via the overflow tube) to push the gas thru
Ran several ounces of gas into a tray, to ensure any bad fuel wasn't going to the carburetor
shut it off, and hooked it fully up
It ran fine, ready for the next steps, dealing with the crankcase, then the gearcase
I pulled the tank, which wasn't that bad...
- Remove seat rest (had done already)
- Remove back seat section (had done already)
- Remove section below back seat section (middle), 2 screws to the chassis, 4 to the side grips, unclip on back sections to get it out - now you can see seat rear bolts
- Remove main seat, 2 back bolts and slides out very easy
- Remove tank bolts, 2 on back, below seat
- Remove gas lines from front, also unclip gas gauge electronics
- I had also removed the side panels that are above foot rests, not sure that is a must
- In screw 4 screws holding tank cover, where tank fill is
- This was the confusing part, take the fill cover off, and wrestle the rubber piece out of the tank cover, by pushing it DOWN, and the tank cover up
- Now you just slide the tank out
- Better to have already siphoned the tank, so it doesn't spill out of the fill tubes
- Drain last upside down
- put in some more, drain out, repeat 2-3 times in my opinion
- remember, i had already removed the filters, i would probably also do that first
- i put back together and put on new filters, tank was definitely dry and clean
separately, i blew out the hoses, and lightly thru the diaphragm pumps
started the machine with the carb rails not hooked up, put a little pressure in the tank (via the overflow tube) to push the gas thru
Ran several ounces of gas into a tray, to ensure any bad fuel wasn't going to the carburetor
shut it off, and hooked it fully up
It ran fine, ready for the next steps, dealing with the crankcase, then the gearcase
Bill-winnipesaukee
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05 Yamaha rs rage 1up
OK - now to deal with the crankcase
- Machine now runs pretty well, ran for 25 minutes, stopped when engine light went on, but didn't see code, assumed oil was low
- during run, steam came off engine a good amount, started to stop steaming off engine toward the end
- running without top air filter cover, so could see that crankcase vent was steaming out as hoped, and moisture was building up
Checked oil, which if anything was high, so decided to try again, wasn't concerned about high oil at this point
- Ran again, but let idle primarily, idled without stalling which was great
- Ran for about 20 minutes
- it throttles up ok without load, but not going more than half throttle for now, and mostly idling
- This time i could see the code - 84, which is something about TORS
- Decided that i am not worried about that right now, so going to run again to try and boil off the water in the crankcase
- Machine now runs pretty well, ran for 25 minutes, stopped when engine light went on, but didn't see code, assumed oil was low
- during run, steam came off engine a good amount, started to stop steaming off engine toward the end
- running without top air filter cover, so could see that crankcase vent was steaming out as hoped, and moisture was building up
Checked oil, which if anything was high, so decided to try again, wasn't concerned about high oil at this point
- Ran again, but let idle primarily, idled without stalling which was great
- Ran for about 20 minutes
- it throttles up ok without load, but not going more than half throttle for now, and mostly idling
- This time i could see the code - 84, which is something about TORS
- Decided that i am not worried about that right now, so going to run again to try and boil off the water in the crankcase
YukonMP
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My MP has been swimming twice so I have spent some time on the forum reading up on the subject. The usual advice at this point would be to buy cheap filters and enough oil for a couple quick oil changes. Do oil changes repeatedly until the oil stays clear, not milky. Then one final oil change when you put in the good stuff. This is the way to go rather than trying to boil off the water in the oil.
Nice job on getting it running. Chain case gets the same treatment, drain, fill with something cheap and run a bit and then dump it.
Nice job on getting it running. Chain case gets the same treatment, drain, fill with something cheap and run a bit and then dump it.
SumpBuster
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 18 sidewinder; 06 Apex RTX
Glad you're making progress.
We learned how to get 2 strokes going again after thinking we could watercross an SS25 Doo!! It almost made it back to shore. Almost is the key word.
We learned how to get 2 strokes going again after thinking we could watercross an SS25 Doo!! It almost made it back to shore. Almost is the key word.
Bill-winnipesaukee
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- 08 Yamaha rs venture 2up
05 Yamaha rs rage 1up
Update - put 25 miles on over 2.5 hour ride w my son and I. No signs of issues
Next weekend - ran about 90 miles up in Pittsburg nh on 2 days. Starting to get engine light w tors indication (84)
Wasn’t often, but did go thru a streak - about 7 times total. Shut off wait a half minute or so and start again. Happens going around 5/8 throttle
Next weekend - ran about 90 miles up in Pittsburg nh on 2 days. Starting to get engine light w tors indication (84)
Wasn’t often, but did go thru a streak - about 7 times total. Shut off wait a half minute or so and start again. Happens going around 5/8 throttle
YukonMP
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- 2014 Venture MultiPurpose 2020 VK Professional ll
I've been watching this thread and am glad it has gone well for you. Sounds like you might have a electrical connection that needs cleaning and greasing but not too bad considering. If the TORS really acts up and has left you stranded as a last resort you can bypass it by following the leads down and joining the two wires coming up at the first connection.
Bill-winnipesaukee
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- Alton, nh
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- 08 Yamaha rs venture 2up
05 Yamaha rs rage 1up
I've been watching this thread and am glad it has gone well for you. Sounds like you might have a electrical connection that needs cleaning and greasing but not too bad considering. If the TORS really acts up and has left you stranded as a last resort you can bypass it by following the leads down and joining the two wires coming up at the first connection.
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