Summer storage.......... gas

[Simplespeed]

Obviously you've never opened an engine up doing this method. Not what I would recommend at all.

Its best to not run them at all and introduce any more condensation than you have to. Running them just introduces a huge amount of water and condensation that will not get burned off and evaporated because its not running long enough. It's the hardest thing on them you can do. If you'd take the engine apart and look at it you'd swear it would never run properly again, the valves & seats rust, the pistons & head corrode and the internals look like crap the more its run and cycled.

Put it away and dont run it again until your ready to ride for the season. Not running the engine is best. The engine will still corrode a bit but nothing like when you run it every few weeks or months. I typically fill with fuel, then run it thru on a lower power setting like the 240 tune or dump the old fuel out and use fresh if running on the 300 tune right away. Full tank is best at minimizing condensation.

The thing is this, wether you leave the engine sit, or run it monthly, the engine will not die, it will still fire up and run decent either way, but running it monthly is much harder on it than just leaving it sit there without running it at all.

Opinions on this vary and thats ok cause we all have our way of doing what we believe to be best .. I do bring the motor to operating temperature every time I start it thats why I put the sled in the air and get the oil flowing and fuel flowing… This also keeps the belt, track from taking a set, chain from lack of oil, bearings oiled that don’t depend on grease, bearings lubed in all wheels and shafts that otherwise may rust from sitting … Moisture can build inside a motor from temperature changes, high humidity and mostly from where it is stored I agree with you… Nothing wrong with filling tank and storing full.. Billions of motors run , stored , run every way under the sun, so I found keeping any motor in use is best, my way is just a extension of that principle…. Like I said I got a 2006 Apex that has proved this for the last 16 years and if you do this right there is no need to open up a perfect motor Mr. Knapp …. Lol. Yes I think its working

 

[WinderFab]

Anybody ever fog these 998’s ?

 

[Hammer70]

I totally agree with knapp I forgot to mention to remove drive belt with fill up.

 

[SideHogger]

Here’s another thing to do. Buy about 6 cans of silicone spray and saturate inside and outside of track along with your suspension. I’ve had guys ask me how I can afford a new track every year and also if I get tired of painting my rear suspension every year. Works wonders……just my $.02

 

[blevis213]

I totally agree with knapp I forgot to mention to remove drive belt with fill up.

And clutch springs

 

[Hammer70]

And clutch springs

This year pulling clutch’s right off as I bought new STM primary and secondary.

 

[KnappAttack]

And clutch springs

I typically remove the belt so it wont corrode the secondary sheaves, and will rotate the track weekly by hand so it wont take a set, but removing clutch springs is really OCD. I literally check my clutch springs for wear and sack on the scale at installed heights, and can tell you that leaving them installed in the clutch is not a problem at all. I too am a little OCD so know where your coming from, hence the reason I track my clutch springs on the scale frequently.

They would have to be really poor clutch springs if leaving them in the clutch sacked them out. Really no reason to remove them, I haven't recorded any reduction in pressure by leaving them nestled right in for the long off seasons rest.