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Suspension Adjustment

rocvector

Newbie
Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Messages
20
Location
Rochester, NY
I am looking for some help in adjusting my suspension. I have a Vector and weigh about 225. I am getting a lot of ski lift in the turns. I have not made any adjustments so far.
 

I've got the same problem with my Rage.

I'd suggest searching on "ski lift" (use the quotes) and you'll find a good number of threads about things you can change.

I'm going to try some of the suggested tweaks and see how it goes.
 
Raise the front of your sled off the ground and back off the front spring adjusters till the front springs just touch them. Raise the back of the sled off the ground and back off the adjuster for the front rear suspension shock (Same as the front shocks). Set your Anti Bottoming springs to full soft. Set your rear spring adjusters to full soft. Ski Lift Gone! You will bottom the rear suspension once in awhile, but that is perfect. I would recommend 6" carbides up front and 96 studs down the center. Ride like a Cadillac and handle like a slot car. If you want more Ski bite - adjust rear transfer rods 2 turns less transfer. Do not suck up the limiter strap - that will make the steering heavy feeling. Good Luck. :4STroke: :Rockon:
 
IM A BIGGER GUY I JUST TIGHTEND THE TRANSFER ROD NUTS ONE TURN AND IT SOLVED MY SKI LIFT PROBLEM BUT STILL HAS GREAT WEIGHT TRANSFER FROM THEAT ADJUSTMENT
 
My wife was complaining of inside ski lift on her Vector. Before she even rode it I shortened the limiter straps 2 holes. After she complained (rightfully so) I pulled the limiters all the way up, loosened the ski preload all the way off and left everything else alone. She loves it now. I have neevr seen her ride with as much confidence and speed as she is able to ride this sled with.
 
Tfin said:
ssvolvo said:
Ditch the skis

I'm interested in how you feel the design of the skis affects inside ski lift.

Tfin - I think I know what he's saying... Now, I only have 160 miles on my new Vector ER, but I think a combination of suspension tweaks, plus skis that bite more, or are more agressive will cure what some are calling "ski lift". I'm going to start a fresh thread to generate some discussion on the Vector suspension and tuning to ones preferences.
 
Biggest thing I found is not slamming open the throttle at the end of a corner like I was used to on a 2 stroke.
I like Oak Hills advice.
The way I look at it, I want my sled to bottom out (not harshly) a few times in a days ride. Otherwise I have all that ride height/travel being wasted.
I like the weight transfer myself. A slow squeeze on the throttle out of a corner is what helped me the most and I did not have to compromise anything.
 
Biggest thing I found is not slamming open the throttle at the end of a corner like I was used to on a 2 stroke.
I like Oak Hills advice.


Agreed! As a newbie who's only ridden 2-strokes I also spent some time getting used to the quiet of the 4-stroke, not using the sound as much as a speed indicator, and hence not charging into corners way too fast. :)

OTOH, it was somehwat frustrating that I couldn't get the rear end to break loose mid-turn, instead I'd just lift the ski. :(
 
That is because of the ripsaw track more than anything else. That is the one thing I miss about that old 3/4 Yokohama track, you could sure spin that tail around. :D

These new ones need to be ridden like they would teach you in racecar/bike riding school.....smooth!!!!
 
Learning to ride these four strokes is key, If you feel ski lifting get all of the way out of the hammer and the engine braking will suck the front end tight to the ground, Because of this you can drive harder in to the corner's. You need to nurse the flipper through the corner's as the torque will lift the front end very easy unless you have very little gap in the transfer rod's. A small gap will cause a harsher ride and less transfer. A frend of mine bought a Vector this year (comming of a 600 poo) and did not like it at first but now that he is used to it he loves it. Any of you guy's that are much over 200 lb you likley have way to much sit in in the rear suspendtion and in this situation you loose half of your suspendtion travel, This is the plush portion of your ride and will make the bottom of your travel come sooner. If you are interested in how i solved this situation just ask and i will give detailes. The optional spring's are not yet available frome yamaha and will be pricy. $136 EA kviper
 
kviper said:
Learning to ride these four strokes is key, If you feel ski lifting get all of the way out of the hammer and the engine braking will suck the front end tight to the ground, Because of this you can drive harder in to the corner's. You need to nurse the flipper through the corner's as the torque will lift the front end very easy unless you have very little gap in the transfer rod's. A small gap will cause a harsher ride and less transfer. A frend of mine bought a Vector this year (comming of a 600 poo) and did not like it at first but now that he is used to it he loves it. Any of you guy's that are much over 200 lb you likley have way to much sit in in the rear suspendtion and in this situation you loose half of your suspendtion travel, This is the plush portion of your ride and will make the bottom of your travel come sooner. If you are interested in how i solved this situation just ask and i will give detailes. The optional spring's are not yet available frome yamaha and will be pricy. $136 EA kviper

I'm interested in hearing......I go 220 lbs + gear

Question first - how many miles has is taken everybody to break in the rear springs? First ride impression is that unless rear suspension springs loosen up, I'm either going to have to"

a: go to softer springs
b. install different track shocks or revalve front track shock and replace rear

To get the ride I want. Just a little too stiff right now.

TIA!!!!
 


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