Suspension and Ski mods first ride report

[MXD]

I have a 2006 Apex ER. It is all stock with the exception of 144 studs inside and out and 8 inch woodys. Geared up I weigh about 245 and I ride mostly groomed trails that end up beat and rough by the end of the day. Here are my complaints, solutions, and results. I put about 350 miles on this weekend after these mods. We were expecting to ride on about 12 inches of groomed trails but they got an additional 14 inches the night before we showed up. ALL of our sleds were pushing slightly because of the conditions.

The Skis
My biggest complaint was the heavy steering. This thing would wear my arms out in no time. It was an absolute bear no matter what the conditions were.

Solution: I went with Bergstrom 8 inch triple points, shims, and 3/8 ski savers.

Result: 95% easier steering. Very minimal effort to get these bars cranked over. It steers very light with this set up. I did experience some pushing in the corners but I was riding on 14 inches of new groomed powder on the trails that hadn't had a chance to set up yet. I will say this though, the access road out to the trails was plowed with a thin cover over the ice and these carbides were bitting!

Price: $150 plus shipping

Front Suspension
Tippy and not very confidence inspiring.

Solution: I backed off on the pre load exactly 4 turns on each front shock.

Result: I started off by loosening the spanner nuts one turn at a time so I wouldn't go too far too quick. Believe it or not, I noticed even one turn. The reason I settled on 4 turns was because I was having so much fun with the front springs set to 4 turns out that I left it and just rode! The A arms are still not quite parallel to the ground (I heard that was the real sweet spot) but this made another HUGE difference. The front end felt very settled and even poundind across the moguls at the end of the day on ITS 86 at about 70 MPH there was no "harshness" to the front end. I might continue this experiment next time out but its a great start.

Price: FREE!

Rear Suspension
Bottomed out to often

Solution:
Pioneer Performance re-valve and 6.5 spring

Result:
A very key thing about the rear suspension that people don't realize very often is that if your set up is incorrect in the back, your geometry will be imbalanced in the front. The new shock was a big improvement. It still bottoms on some of the bigger G outs but it is a much softer bottom. Specifically if I am coming down a small hill into a sharp transition. Otherwise, no bottoming while skimming the whoops or pounding the rollers at any speed.

I also tightened up my limiter strap one hole to help keep the front planted a bit more.

Price: $150 plus shipping


I don't claim to be an expert and I am not saying that this setup is the end all be all but I will say that for about 300 bucks, my sled is 95% cured of the hard steering and tippiness that it suffered from. It corners pretty flat although I would like to improve it slightly, It turns with minimal effort, and the bottoming is close enough to perfect that I think my RA will cure the rest. My next time out I plan on playing with the front springs some more and possibly a 13mm sway bar.

I hope this helps.

 

[POB88]

I found the same to be true.
For some reason when i took off the ski savers it got much better.

 

[DaveyBoy]

MXD did u have ski savers on ??

 

[MXD]

Yes I have 3/8 ski savers on

 

[MCApex44]

MXD...you are my twin..well almost. lol. I have the exact same set-up for my 06 Apex ER except for the bergstrom triple points(which I will consider when my doolys are worn out and need to be replaced)--and I weigh about the same. I witness the exact same thing you mentioned when it comes to the doolys. It is very tough to steer at slow speeds in a tight corner. My A-arms are a little above parrallel(I also will try to drop the front down a bit as you did). What do you have your rear suspension setting at? I run my rear susp(6.5) at mid to above mid(11-15) clicks on the tunnel dialer. I have found each click on the tunnel dialer/adjuster to be quite sensitive as well. It seems to handle better at 11 clicks but will bottom easier(of course) but is much stiffer at 15 clicks towards harder.

 

[iasledder]

I run the Bergstrom Ugly Kit, 6" carbides, not studded, shimmed rear and ski savers. Totally satisfied. The Apex ER darted worse than any sled I've ever had. The Kit fixed it. The ski savers of coarse place the carbides deeper in the snow, which I expected would increase steering effort, no problem there either. More carbide would likely be required when studded.

 

[Charged RTX]

Are you guys running the shims you purchased or home made shims? How thick are they? I have been doing a lot straight line mods now I want to start with some of this trail type mods. Who knows I may get off the lake once or twice.

 

[MXD]

I used everthing in Bergstroms kit. Ski Savers, Shims, and 8 inch tripple points. I'm not sure about the thickness. I think it was 1/4 inch

 

[Charged RTX]

Is it true that most people make there own? What is everyone using? How about some pics.

 

[Riceburner]

Yes most make their own.

I had an old mud flap in the Garage I cut pieces out of.

I have heard of people using toilet shims they bot at Home Depot for a couple of bucks.

 

[iasledder]

Before the Bergstroms I maid my own shims. Took an old drive belt and ground thickness down to apprx 1/4". Jambed it between the rubber damper and the skeg, rear side. Used Automotive goop on both sides of the shim and then ran a couple of self tapping screws thru the shim into the rubber damper. 800 miles on this off brand sled so far, with no problems other than darting stopped. Length was equal to bumper width and fore and aft width was apprx. 1/2".

Referance is about my Poo.