• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Suspension settings, RTX ONLY

Arms like this
17-03-10_mar-up-snowmobiling_635_149-jpg.134274
 

How much you weigh? Limiters all the way out or 2nd hole,transfer blocks on 1,Torsions?,Centershock spring keep cranking till front feels light,Front set arms to a bit past level downward and adjust the rebound on those shocks as fast as possible without bottoming or feedback through bars. Those clickers on fronts have a big effect so start in middle and 3 clicks at time till close then dial it in.

Wow, quick response. Thanks.
I weight about 230#. I'm not sure what the Torsions is. Can you clarify what you mean by "till the front feels light". Do you want me to actually lift the try lifting the front bumper or is it the feel with acceleration? And finally, the front arms past level downward is that with me seated on the seat? Sorry for all he questions but still learning the lingo. Oh the strap is all the way out I believe.
 
Feel with acceleration for center shock spring. Torsions are the big springs at rear of sled. Small end rests on adjuster. Try on lightest setting but if too much sag I would put on middle for your wieght. Arms like pic with you off sled.
 
Feel with acceleration for center shock spring. Torsions are the big springs at rear of sled. Small end rests on adjuster. Try on lightest setting but if too much sag I would put on middle for your wieght. Arms like pic with you off sled.

Great Thanks. I'll try those suggestions and hope to be riding seriously soon.
 
I went full loose on that center spring trying to make it softer. Have the A arms set up well, ill try adding more turns back on the center. Still curious if anybody is running the High gear twisted set up on theses Fox QS3 ?
 
How drastic if a change would loosening limiter straps one setting? Unfortunately I don't really have much
Snow here to test and don't really want to mess around with suspension settings on a snowmobile trip, but I'm thinking about letting my limiter straps out 1 hole to get a little less ski pressure (little more speed?) to make the sled more playful I just don't want to have too much transfer where I'm pushing in corners. I've seen a lot
Of people doing the 160lb spring mod I'm just not sure that would be the best thing to do to a short track trail sled When it comes to bump absorbing ability. 16 rtx with qs3 shocks and pilot skis.
 
I went with the revised progressive rate spring for the center shock from Cat and really like it.

I think I saw a post where someone ditched the knob on his QS3's and wend with DSC's. If you are even remotely sharp this is the best thing you could do along with a custom valving stack.
 
I believe I have the new progressive rate spring I have a late build 16
 
I have a late build 2016 I got last spring as a leftover and I think it rides like a brick it feels like the center shock and spring is way WAY too stiff . I have now backed the center spring basically all the way off down the threads and was only marginally better. backed off the front shock springs last year and that helped plant the front end a bit and make the nose a bit softer .. I weigh 180 + gear groomed trail riding . Now have 750 miles on it . I ride with n LTX 137 and when I switch to that sled all the little stutter bumps are just gone cant even feel them. there is no comparison. I guess I'll try going back up on the center shock spring ?? I dunno, but what I do know is a 2017 Cat 7000 feels nothing like this so no way they are the same center shock and spring. I may get a center set up from the Cat dealer ? just super frustrated at the moment.
Question on the rear coupler blocks how much space do you want between block and scissor while sitting on the sled ? torsions on 1 sled is coupled, torsions on 2 there's some space , may change if I try stiffening the center spring back up
I have shocks set on 1 in rear and switch the fronts from 1-2 depending on trail. handling is ok but not great but I need more carbide or ski upgrade for that.
 
I have a late build 2016 I got last spring as a leftover and I think it rides like a brick it feels like the center shock and spring is way WAY too stiff . I have now backed the center spring basically all the way off down the threads and was only marginally better. backed off the front shock springs last year and that helped plant the front end a bit and make the nose a bit softer .. I weigh 180 + gear groomed trail riding . Now have 750 miles on it . I ride with n LTX 137 and when I switch to that sled all the little stutter bumps are just gone cant even feel them. there is no comparison. I guess I'll try going back up on the center shock spring ?? I dunno, but what I do know is a 2017 Cat 7000 feels nothing like this so no way they are the same center shock and spring. I may get a center set up from the Cat dealer ? just super frustrated at the moment.
Question on the rear coupler blocks how much space do you want between block and scissor while sitting on the sled ? torsions on 1 sled is coupled, torsions on 2 there's some space , may change if I try stiffening the center spring back up
I have shocks set on 1 in rear and switch the fronts from 1-2 depending on trail. handling is ok but not great but I need more carbide or ski upgrade for that.
If shocks look the same they are EXACTLY the same whether cat or Yamaha. Have had both apart many times. Same.Possibly something is wrong with your shock or shock. Would not surprise me at all. Send the center shock over. $30 and at least will get a refresh.
 
I have the front end set up pretty much to my liking. I have noticed lately that the front end squeaks quite loudly. Seems to come from both sides. Sounds like it could be rubber type noise. No grease fittings on any of the front end components. about 8 mm on the pre-load springs. Any suggestions is appreciated.

2017 RTX-SE
 


Back
Top