Suspension Setup for Occasional Drag Racing

markt111

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I have a TD Powertrail LTX LE, it is a true trail sled at about 6000 miles, I have 144 Gold diggers 1.56 up the middle, When we find a good stretch of lake I occasionally race my two buddies with 1200 Skidoo turbos(aftermarket kits obviously). One I have beat good and I am not worried about, the other is dialing his in now as he just assembled it and it's close to me now, supposed to be 310-320HP when set up properly running Meth and 15-16 lbs of boost.

I do not want to change too much as I trail ride 150-220 miles a day but what changes can I make to stay ahead of these guys when we hit the lake? Is it best to set all shocks on #1 full soft to transfer? keep weight in front to keep nose down or stand near the back?

My limiter strap is 1 hole in, if I let it out to the last hole and how much would that affect my trail manners which are awesome at this point?

Transfer blocks are in but set to max transfer, I had removed them on my Viper and it was fine but it did not have this type of power to raise the nose.
 
Anything you do for more transfer like letting the limiter out or stiffening the center shock will lead to worse handling. I don’t think you will beat a 310-320 doo anyway on Powertrail. Depending on which version you have you are 40-60 hp light. The best you could hope for is he runs out of gear early on a long run.
 
The lower you can get your sled better you will do top end. So tighten your center limiter as much as you can stand when trail riding. If I go 3 holes tighter which I hate trail riding I can gain almost 3-5mph top end. Faster rebound in rear helps hookup as does soft on compression and spring. I get as far back and as low as possible once launched.
 
The lower you can get your sled better you will do top end. So tighten your center limiter as much as you can stand when trail riding. If I go 3 holes tighter which I hate trail riding I can gain almost 3-5mph top end. Faster rebound in rear helps hookup as does soft on compression and spring. I get as far back and as low as possible once launched.
Yes agree with steve 100% soften up back as much as possible,and keep front of skid down as well.
 
I am hoping If I get him on launch I will be able to hold him off!! He has more studs but they are shorter...
 
so to keep the front skid down weight near the front as much as possible to keep a large contact patch?
 
Bump that tune up to max spool 16 or higher.
 
More studs it’s over. 144 is light IMO.

I was debating adding adding some more studs on the outside but my handling is really dialed in right now for the trail and I don't want to mess with that, looking for more quick settings I can revert easy and technique advice,
 
I was debating adding adding some more studs on the outside but my handling is really dialed in right now for the trail and I don't want to mess with that, looking for more quick settings I can revert easy and technique advice,
Matter of opinion on outside the windows for studding. I have been doing it for thousands of miles. Adjust suspension for them. The gains on hook up and traction outweigh any change in handling IMO. That slight handling change can be adjusted for easily.
 
You're making snow cones and eating snow/ice chips if you don't have the traction. Transfer is important, but the correct amount of studs and length are more important for your occasional drag. Don't you want bragging rights with your buds?
 
If studded correctly, it’s it best take the transfer blocks out and pull the limiter straps up a 2-3 holes or keep the blocks in and only pull the straps up 1-2 holes. Understanding front end down means more MPH.
 


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