500 Mile Report and Suspension Setup

[Pstn head]

I find the dime, has better feel for the detents, when making adjustments.

Yes, I agree

 

[SumpBuster]

I just got back from the 4th day of my break in trip and now have a little over 500 miles on the LTX LE. I'm going to warn everyone that hasn't put any miles on it yet, especially if you've never run a turbo sled, have respect for this thing. It is sneaky fast. You grab the throttle and it is so smooth you don't realize how fast you are going till you need to slow down for the next corner.

Out of the box it has way too much ski pressure. I could barely turn the handlebars. After 4 days of tweaking I have it running like it's on rails. No push, no inside ski lift and pretty light steering. With my setup I can't lift the skis to the air but that's not what i'm interested in. I run high speed windy groomed trail and like it to handle flat and keep the skis down when I get into the throttle mid corner. It is transferring just enough to get all the traction I need but still keep the front nice and flat. Now this is the best riding and handling sled I've ever ridden. On #1 on all shocks it is firm but not rough. I can carry through 10-12 in chop at full speed and only bottom once in a while on that setting. I was joking today saying the numbers are the size in feet that the moguls in the trail are. At the same time it is nice and smooth over the small wash board stuff while seated. The dual rate center setup is really nice. I'm probably going to take another 1/2 to full turn out of the center shock but I'm just getting picky at that point. If you like to run the groomed stuff at high speed I recommend starting at what I have listed below. Probably isn't the greatest for drag racing but I really couldn't care less about that. The limiter straps seemed extreme to me but it's what works for how I like to ride.

Ergos are the same if you've ridden a viper. I've always liked the procross chassis when it comes to this. The first day I thought the seat was stiffer than my viper but it just needed broken in. Now it's firm but comfy.

On to the engine. Did I mention how fast it is? I'm coming off an MPI Trail Viper from the last two years and this thing is on a whole different level. There is ZERO lag when you pin it. It just takes off like a rocket and doesn't stop pulling till you let up. The trails I ran this week didn't give me much of a chance to let it go. I only got it to 96 on GPS for a split second but it didn't take much room to get there. The clutching seems close right now but I won't be able to tell until I can get it out on a lake and let it loose. I just didn't have enough room to be watching the tach while pinning it to see where the RPMs were settling in at. After the first day I thought that the rollers were flat spotting but after looking at them at 500 miles they are all round, wearing even and all making contact with the helix.

Over all I think this is the greatest package ever offered from any factory for the type of riding I do. I couldn't be happier with it. Below is my full setup at the moment if anyone is interested in the details.

Rider: 200 Lbs

Skis: Curve XS with 6" Slim Jims

Suspension
Front Springs: 50 threads showing
Front Compression: 1
Front Rebound: 8 from full soft
Center Spring: 9 threads showing
Center Compression: 1
Rear Springs: 1
Rear Compression: 1
Rear Rebound: 8 from full soft
Limiter Straps: 3rd hole (middle)
Transfer Blocks: 1

Clutching
Primary
Thunder Products Heavy Hitters
1/4 & 3/4 allen in the heel
Added 2 thin washers to the middle and the tip from what came in the box.

Secondary
Stock, 70 degrees on the spring

***EDIT*** Moved this part to the first page for ease since I'm getting a lot of PMs about figuring out settings.

Here's how I have learned to set up the suspensions on this chassis. I just spent all week tweaking my sidewinder LTX LE and my dad's Viper LTX DX and we got them both perfect.

I start with setting the rear torsion springs. I pull the rear suspension all the way up then sit on the sled in the position that i'll be riding it. I like a few inches of sag but you don't want the rear arm to come in contact with the transfer blocks.

Once I'm happy with that I ride it. If the steering, when you are going down the trail straight and just maintaining speed, is stiff then I start adding spring pressure to the center shock until it lightens up to where it's comfortable. If the sled won't turn and the steering is loose then loosen the center spring till the skis bite but you aren't having to muscle the handlebars.

Once I have that set then I start concentrating on how it runs through the corners. If while accelerating through the turn it lifts the skis or gets tippy then there are 2 options to try to correct it. You can switch the coupling blocks from #1 to #2. This will cause the rear skid to couple quicker and not allow the sled to rotate onto the rear suspension as much keeping the skis on the ground. The negative side effect of this is you will start to lose traction under hard acceleration because the front of the skid will lock in with the rear and start lifting off the ground. On the NA Viper you don't notice this on setting 2 because you don't have a ton of power to break the track loose. On the Sidewinder when I did this I would break the rear end loose every time I got into it. So, on my dad's viper we left the blocks on #2, if we set them on #3 he would then start to lose traction. He still had a little more ski lift than he wanted so we then tightened the limiter strap to the second hole and all was well. He can pin it in the corners and it keeps traction and the front end stays planted and flat. Happy Happy. On mine I set it back to #1 on the blocks but it would just lift the skis. I found that the dealership already tightened my straps to #2 so I tightened them to #3 and all ski lift went away. With it set like this the front end is glued to the trail and when I accelerate hard it pulls the front of the skid into the straps then squats the rear of the skid keeping the skis on the ground but transferring enough to keep the track hooked up.

The only times that I mess with the ski springs is if the front A arms are not sitting close to horizontal when sitting on the sled or if I had to tighten the limiter straps so far that when I tighten the center spring it is just pulling the straps tighter instead of lifting pressure off the front end.

As far as rebound settings, you want the skis and the rear to return to the ground as quickly as possible without bucking the rear over moguls or making the front end erratic when transitioning left to right through the corners.

Once that is figured out then the compression can be set. I just start on the lowest setting. If it is bottoming too much anywhere then increase it in that area till it goes away. This will have to be changed based on what condition the trails are in. Once you get it figured out you'll just know what you need to set it on by looking at the conditions.

Keep in mind that every time you change a setting on the transfer blocks or the straps you will probably have to readjust the center spring to get the steering effort back to where you want it again. This all takes time but once you figure it out it will be a whole different machine.

This is my Dad's 3rd season on his viper and he never really said anything to me about how it handled so I never messed with it. It was just the 2 of us this week and he started asking questions when I was setting up my suspension and he started describing what the sled was doing. After some back and forth and going through this procedure he can't believe it is the same sled. He always liked the handling but says it is now a whole different level of performance and fun riding it. I'm sure other people have a different method on how they do all this but this is what worked for me. It doesn't matter what skis you are running or any of that. The same basic concepts apply for how this suspension works and what all the settings effect. Depending on your weight, what ski/carbide/track/stud pattern you are using these settings will all be different but the method to get to them should be the same.

Excellent write up! You are a nascar crew chief, right? LOL
I actually love fooling with the handling, since all the power in the world on trails in our area, won't buy much. This sled has the ability to finesse through tight woods, and then open a hyper drive window as the trees stop!
In any case, I was not happy at all with mine, until I went to limiter hole 4, front springs 2 turns tight from full loose, rear springs on 2, and center spring tightened up maybe 1/2 way (didn't count the threads).
This changed the sled from tippy. unpredictable inside ski lift, yet not able to pick the front much (the transfer complaints) to a real blast, especially in turns. The front steers even easier ( not expected as tightening limiters typically makes steering harder) and I can accelerate through them with some nice oversteer...but I did lose some hookup, so I won't be racing anyone from a start. I don't anway. Somebody is always faster today, as it's a game of cubic dollars! I too am around 200, with curves and slim jims. The fourth hole does seem extreme too, but it works.
I did not move the transfer blocks as the ride gets compromised as soon as a suspension couples. On a flat floor, I lost maybe 1 lug under the front idlers with the strap up, but when sitting on it, it will compress, and then it start to lift the front a arms (slightly), which is why it is staying flat. It also had the effect of less sag, pulling on the front shock spring. The ride is still very good. I might try a few other combinatuons, but this is great right now. 2018 SE with the typical shocks...rebound up front is in the middle. The limiter and front arm are key to how the sled pivots. I think with the longer strap, the sled was pivoting too much from acceleration, braking, and sometimes the ski digs in, sometimes it pushes, where now, I can and be 'sloppy' with the throttle and just ride it..LOTS faster through our 1 mile test course...and confidence inspiring. Even if I get a ski up, I can hang it there and stay on the gas!!
Tried to use similar logic on my well set up monoshock apex, but shorter limiters makes ski lift...mainly because the extra weight up front not transferring makes the outer ski bite harder. The apex transfers hard and pulls the front in deeper snow, while the sw pretty much stays flat. Interesting!

Also should add, this was testing under the same conditions, from 10 below zero to 32 above, and the warmer it got the better it handled. Which is important for central ny....can't count on temps. being consistent, and the snow changes a lot.
(2 inches as shown works best with hole 4, rear springs on 2, couplers on 1, front springs 2 turns from loose. Tried hole 3 again with less tension (harder steering,.more ski lift) more tension (easier steering, but more lift) and went back to 4 with 2 inches showing. Really works well there, and able to put the sled wherever I want with easy steering. Leaving it alone now..lol.

 

[sudsiee Hudsiee]

I just got back from the 4th day of my break in trip and now have a little over 500 miles on the LTX LE. I'm going to warn everyone that hasn't put any miles on it yet, especially if you've never run a turbo sled, have respect for this thing. It is sneaky fast. You grab the throttle and it is so smooth you don't realize how fast you are going till you need to slow down for the next corner.

Out of the box it has way too much ski pressure. I could barely turn the handlebars. After 4 days of tweaking I have it running like it's on rails. No push, no inside ski lift and pretty light steering. With my setup I can't lift the skis to the air but that's not what i'm interested in. I run high speed windy groomed trail and like it to handle flat and keep the skis down when I get into the throttle mid corner. It is transferring just enough to get all the traction I need but still keep the front nice and flat. Now this is the best riding and handling sled I've ever ridden. On #1 on all shocks it is firm but not rough. I can carry through 10-12 in chop at full speed and only bottom once in a while on that setting. I was joking today saying the numbers are the size in feet that the moguls in the trail are. At the same time it is nice and smooth over the small wash board stuff while seated. The dual rate center setup is really nice. I'm probably going to take another 1/2 to full turn out of the center shock but I'm just getting picky at that point. If you like to run the groomed stuff at high speed I recommend starting at what I have listed below. Probably isn't the greatest for drag racing but I really couldn't care less about that. The limiter straps seemed extreme to me but it's what works for how I like to ride.

Ergos are the same if you've ridden a viper. I've always liked the procross chassis when it comes to this. The first day I thought the seat was stiffer than my viper but it just needed broken in. Now it's firm but comfy.

On to the engine. Did I mention how fast it is? I'm coming off an MPI Trail Viper from the last two years and this thing is on a whole different level. There is ZERO lag when you pin it. It just takes off like a rocket and doesn't stop pulling till you let up. The trails I ran this week didn't give me much of a chance to let it go. I only got it to 96 on GPS for a split second but it didn't take much room to get there. The clutching seems close right now but I won't be able to tell until I can get it out on a lake and let it loose. I just didn't have enough room to be watching the tach while pinning it to see where the RPMs were settling in at. After the first day I thought that the rollers were flat spotting but after looking at them at 500 miles they are all round, wearing even and all making contact with the helix.

Over all I think this is the greatest package ever offered from any factory for the type of riding I do. I couldn't be happier with it. Below is my full setup at the moment if anyone is interested in the details.

Rider: 200 Lbs

Skis: Curve XS with 6" Slim Jims

Suspension
Front Springs: 50 threads showing
Front Compression: 1
Front Rebound: 8 from full soft
Center Spring: 9 threads showing
Center Compression: 1
Rear Springs: 1
Rear Compression: 1
Rear Rebound: 8 from full soft
Limiter Straps: 3rd hole (middle)
Transfer Blocks: 1

Clutching
Primary
Thunder Products Heavy Hitters
1/4 & 3/4 allen in the heel
Added 2 thin washers to the middle and the tip from what came in the box.

Secondary
Stock, 70 degrees on the spring

***EDIT*** Moved this part to the first page for ease since I'm getting a lot of PMs about figuring out settings.

Here's how I have learned to set up the suspensions on this chassis. I just spent all week tweaking my sidewinder LTX LE and my dad's Viper LTX DX and we got them both perfect.

I start with setting the rear torsion springs. I pull the rear suspension all the way up then sit on the sled in the position that i'll be riding it. I like a few inches of sag but you don't want the rear arm to come in contact with the transfer blocks.

Once I'm happy with that I ride it. If the steering, when you are going down the trail straight and just maintaining speed, is stiff then I start adding spring pressure to the center shock until it lightens up to where it's comfortable. If the sled won't turn and the steering is loose then loosen the center spring till the skis bite but you aren't having to muscle the handlebars.

Once I have that set then I start concentrating on how it runs through the corners. If while accelerating through the turn it lifts the skis or gets tippy then there are 2 options to try to correct it. You can switch the coupling blocks from #1 to #2. This will cause the rear skid to couple quicker and not allow the sled to rotate onto the rear suspension as much keeping the skis on the ground. The negative side effect of this is you will start to lose traction under hard acceleration because the front of the skid will lock in with the rear and start lifting off the ground. On the NA Viper you don't notice this on setting 2 because you don't have a ton of power to break the track loose. On the Sidewinder when I did this I would break the rear end loose every time I got into it. So, on my dad's viper we left the blocks on #2, if we set them on #3 he would then start to lose traction. He still had a little more ski lift than he wanted so we then tightened the limiter strap to the second hole and all was well. He can pin it in the corners and it keeps traction and the front end stays planted and flat. Happy Happy. On mine I set it back to #1 on the blocks but it would just lift the skis. I found that the dealership already tightened my straps to #2 so I tightened them to #3 and all ski lift went away. With it set like this the front end is glued to the trail and when I accelerate hard it pulls the front of the skid into the straps then squats the rear of the skid keeping the skis on the ground but transferring enough to keep the track hooked up.

The only times that I mess with the ski springs is if the front A arms are not sitting close to horizontal when sitting on the sled or if I had to tighten the limiter straps so far that when I tighten the center spring it is just pulling the straps tighter instead of lifting pressure off the front end.

As far as rebound settings, you want the skis and the rear to return to the ground as quickly as possible without bucking the rear over moguls or making the front end erratic when transitioning left to right through the corners.

Once that is figured out then the compression can be set. I just start on the lowest setting. If it is bottoming too much anywhere then increase it in that area till it goes away. This will have to be changed based on what condition the trails are in. Once you get it figured out you'll just know what you need to set it on by looking at the conditions.

Keep in mind that every time you change a setting on the transfer blocks or the straps you will probably have to readjust the center spring to get the steering effort back to where you want it again. This all takes time but once you figure it out it will be a whole different machine.

This is my Dad's 3rd season on his viper and he never really said anything to me about how it handled so I never messed with it. It was just the 2 of us this week and he started asking questions when I was setting up my suspension and he started describing what the sled was doing. After some back and forth and going through this procedure he can't believe it is the same sled. He always liked the handling but says it is now a whole different level of performance and fun riding it. I'm sure other people have a different method on how they do all this but this is what worked for me. It doesn't matter what skis you are running or any of that. The same basic concepts apply for how this suspension works and what all the settings effect. Depending on your weight, what ski/carbide/track/stud pattern you are using these settings will all be different but the method to get to them should be the same.

I just got back from the 4th day of my break in trip and now have a little over 500 miles on the LTX LE. I'm going to warn everyone that hasn't put any miles on it yet, especially if you've never run a turbo sled, have respect for this thing. It is sneaky fast. You grab the throttle and it is so smooth you don't realize how fast you are going till you need to slow down for the next corner.

Out of the box it has way too much ski pressure. I could barely turn the handlebars. After 4 days of tweaking I have it running like it's on rails. No push, no inside ski lift and pretty light steering. With my setup I can't lift the skis to the air but that's not what i'm interested in. I run high speed windy groomed trail and like it to handle flat and keep the skis down when I get into the throttle mid corner. It is transferring just enough to get all the traction I need but still keep the front nice and flat. Now this is the best riding and handling sled I've ever ridden. On #1 on all shocks it is firm but not rough. I can carry through 10-12 in chop at full speed and only bottom once in a while on that setting. I was joking today saying the numbers are the size in feet that the moguls in the trail are. At the same time it is nice and smooth over the small wash board stuff while seated. The dual rate center setup is really nice. I'm probably going to take another 1/2 to full turn out of the center shock but I'm just getting picky at that point. If you like to run the groomed stuff at high speed I recommend starting at what I have listed below. Probably isn't the greatest for drag racing but I really couldn't care less about that. The limiter straps seemed extreme to me but it's what works for how I like to ride.

Ergos are the same if you've ridden a viper. I've always liked the procross chassis when it comes to this. The first day I thought the seat was stiffer than my viper but it just needed broken in. Now it's firm but comfy.

On to the engine. Did I mention how fast it is? I'm coming off an MPI Trail Viper from the last two years and this thing is on a whole different level. There is ZERO lag when you pin it. It just takes off like a rocket and doesn't stop pulling till you let up. The trails I ran this week didn't give me much of a chance to let it go. I only got it to 96 on GPS for a split second but it didn't take much room to get there. The clutching seems close right now but I won't be able to tell until I can get it out on a lake and let it loose. I just didn't have enough room to be watching the tach while pinning it to see where the RPMs were settling in at. After the first day I thought that the rollers were flat spotting but after looking at them at 500 miles they are all round, wearing even and all making contact with the helix.

Over all I think this is the greatest package ever offered from any factory for the type of riding I do. I couldn't be happier with it. Below is my full setup at the moment if anyone is interested in the details.

Rider: 200 Lbs

Skis: Curve XS with 6" Slim Jims

Suspension
Front Springs: 50 threads showing
Front Compression: 1
Front Rebound: 8 from full soft
Center Spring: 9 threads showing
Center Compression: 1
Rear Springs: 1
Rear Compression: 1
Rear Rebound: 8 from full soft
Limiter Straps: 3rd hole (middle)
Transfer Blocks: 1

Clutching
Primary
Thunder Products Heavy Hitters
1/4 & 3/4 allen in the heel
Added 2 thin washers to the middle and the tip from what came in the box.

Secondary
Stock, 70 degrees on the spring

***EDIT*** Moved this part to the first page for ease since I'm getting a lot of PMs about figuring out settings.

Here's how I have learned to set up the suspensions on this chassis. I just spent all week tweaking my sidewinder LTX LE and my dad's Viper LTX DX and we got them both perfect.

I start with setting the rear torsion springs. I pull the rear suspension all the way up then sit on the sled in the position that i'll be riding it. I like a few inches of sag but you don't want the rear arm to come in contact with the transfer blocks.

Once I'm happy with that I ride it. If the steering, when you are going down the trail straight and just maintaining speed, is stiff then I start adding spring pressure to the center shock until it lightens up to where it's comfortable. If the sled won't turn and the steering is loose then loosen the center spring till the skis bite but you aren't having to muscle the handlebars.

Once I have that set then I start concentrating on how it runs through the corners. If while accelerating through the turn it lifts the skis or gets tippy then there are 2 options to try to correct it. You can switch the coupling blocks from #1 to #2. This will cause the rear skid to couple quicker and not allow the sled to rotate onto the rear suspension as much keeping the skis on the ground. The negative side effect of this is you will start to lose traction under hard acceleration because the front of the skid will lock in with the rear and start lifting off the ground. On the NA Viper you don't notice this on setting 2 because you don't have a ton of power to break the track loose. On the Sidewinder when I did this I would break the rear end loose every time I got into it. So, on my dad's viper we left the blocks on #2, if we set them on #3 he would then start to lose traction. He still had a little more ski lift than he wanted so we then tightened the limiter strap to the second hole and all was well. He can pin it in the corners and it keeps traction and the front end stays planted and flat. Happy Happy. On mine I set it back to #1 on the blocks but it would just lift the skis. I found that the dealership already tightened my straps to #2 so I tightened them to #3 and all ski lift went away. With it set like this the front end is glued to the trail and when I accelerate hard it pulls the front of the skid into the straps then squats the rear of the skid keeping the skis on the ground but transferring enough to keep the track hooked up.

The only times that I mess with the ski springs is if the front A arms are not sitting close to horizontal when sitting on the sled or if I had to tighten the limiter straps so far that when I tighten the center spring it is just pulling the straps tighter instead of lifting pressure off the front end.

As far as rebound settings, you want the skis and the rear to return to the ground as quickly as possible without bucking the rear over moguls or making the front end erratic when transitioning left to right through the corners.

Once that is figured out then the compression can be set. I just start on the lowest setting. If it is bottoming too much anywhere then increase it in that area till it goes away. This will have to be changed based on what condition the trails are in. Once you get it figured out you'll just know what you need to set it on by looking at the conditions.

Keep in mind that every time you change a setting on the transfer blocks or the straps you will probably have to readjust the center spring to get the steering effort back to where you want it again. This all takes time but once you figure it out it will be a whole different machine.

This is my Dad's 3rd season on his viper and he never really said anything to me about how it handled so I never messed with it. It was just the 2 of us this week and he started asking questions when I was setting up my suspension and he started describing what the sled was doing. After some back and forth and going through this procedure he can't believe it is the same sled. He always liked the handling but says it is now a whole different level of performance and fun riding it. I'm sure other people have a different method on how they do all this but this is what worked for me. It doesn't matter what skis you are running or any of that. The same basic concepts apply for how this suspension works and what all the settings effect. Depending on your weight, what ski/carbide/track/stud pattern you are using these settings will all be different but the method to get to them should be the same.

 

[sudsiee Hudsiee]

nice write up...thanks for sharing the info...same sled here , ltx le

due to lack of snow..Ive gotten 30 miles...but its funny how similar i have adjusted already...Im 185...I took 3/8-1/2 inch out of the center spring... 1 all around...havent fooled with the fronts yet because I switched to the procross single runner skis and am adding bergstrom triple points..

transfer blocks are switched to racewerx...so far leaving strap where it was (I like to line it up here tand there) ...figured Id end at middle on rebound after logging miles starting out on rebound soft...

for my weight , my impression is the torsion spring might be a little on the firm side ..but perfect for a 210-220 lb rider

wrapped the secondary to 70 degrees and added the OSP adjuster...and a 8dn belt..did the roller bolts with O rings to quiet her down some..

I feel like I have a slight advantage in knowing this machine since i had a 2016 zr9000 ltd 137" with qs3's ...so its almost like the same sled..

Thank you for this, working to match your set up, question on the 2018 sidewinder with fox performance gold shocks, is there actually a rear rebound adjustment to adjust on the 3 click shocks? i'm looking but don; t see the adjustment to go to 8 on rebound... also question did you actually adjust the front limiter strap to the position or is the hole the stock hole it comes with?

 

[WVTurboLTX]

The rebound is at the opposite end on top by the track. It's tight up there. That's why people are using a coin to adjust it.

Stock the sled came with limiter all the way out. My dealer pulled it to 2, I pulled it to 3 (5 holes total). All of this is about preference so just play with it till you're happy. The key is understanding how each adjustment affects the handling.

 

[sudsiee Hudsiee]

that's great thank you i found it , i had given up as i thought this was part of the shaft and bolt, appreciate that and i will start to adjust the limiter after the ride today! we have snow!

 

[staggs65]

Nice tutorial

 

[actionjack]

The rebound is at the opposite end on top by the track. It's tight up there. That's why people are using a coin to adjust it.

Stock the sled came with limiter all the way out. My dealer pulled it to 2, I pulled it to 3 (5 holes total). All of this is about preference so just play with it till you're happy. The key is understanding how each adjustment affects the handling.

Yeah sorry I went a season and a half before pulling up the limiters.

Matt, You guys on the ice this weekend? Last weekend was rough but better than nothing.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

Yeah sorry I went a season and a half before pulling up the limiters.

Matt, You guys on the ice this weekend? Last weekend was rough but better than nothing.
View attachment 137698

I bounced around a little Friday night and did a little testing on Saturday. It was pretty rough. Still got 120 on the speedo. This weekend I'm at home prepping for Canada.

 

[snowbeast]

View attachment 135768
Excellent write up! You are a nascar crew chief, right? LOL
I actually love fooling with the handling, since all the power in the world on trails in our area, won't buy much. This sled has the ability to finesse through tight woods, and then open a hyper drive window as the trees stop!
In any case, I was not happy at all with mine, until I went to limiter hole 4, front springs 2 turns tight from full loose, rear springs on 2, and center spring tightened up maybe 1/2 way (didn't count the threads).
This changed the sled from tippy. unpredictable inside ski lift, yet not able to pick the front much (the transfer complaints) to a real blast, especially in turns. The front steers even easier ( not expected as tightening limiters typically makes steering harder) and I can accelerate through them with some nice oversteer...but I did lose some hookup, so I won't be racing anyone from a start. I don't anway. Somebody is always faster today, as it's a game of cubic dollars! I too am around 200, with curves and slim jims. The fourth hole does seem extreme too, but it works.
I did not move the transfer blocks as the ride gets compromised as soon as a suspension couples. On a flat floor, I lost maybe 1 lug under the front idlers with the strap up, but when sitting on it, it will compress, and then it start to lift the front a arms (slightly), which is why it is staying flat. It also had the effect of less sag, pulling on the front shock spring. The ride is still very good. I might try a few other combinatuons, but this is great right now. 2018 SE with the typical shocks...rebound up front is in the middle. The limiter and front arm are key to how the sled pivots. I think with the longer strap, the sled was pivoting too much from acceleration, braking, and sometimes the ski digs in, sometimes it pushes, where now, I can and be 'sloppy' with the throttle and just ride it..LOTS faster through our 1 mile test course...and confidence inspiring. Even if I get a ski up, I can hang it there and stay on the gas!!
Tried to use similar logic on my well set up monoshock apex, but shorter limiters makes ski lift...mainly because the extra weight up front not transferring makes the outer ski bite harder. The apex transfers hard and pulls the front in deeper snow, while the sw pretty much stays flat. Interesting!

Also should add, this was testing under the same conditions, from 10 below zero to 32 above, and the warmer it got the better it handled. Which is important for central ny....can't count on temps. being consistent, and the snow changes a lot.
(2 inches as shown works best with hole 4, rear springs on 2, couplers on 1, front springs 2 turns from loose. Tried hole 3 again with less tension (harder steering,.more ski lift) more tension (easier steering, but more lift) and went back to 4 with 2 inches showing. Really works well there, and able to put the sled wherever I want with easy steering. Leaving it alone now..lol.

That front rear shock you show threads from the bottom of shock,that does not look like my skid front shock on my LE mine adjusts from the top,at the dule small spring.

 

[SumpBuster]

That front rear shock you show threads from the bottom of shock,that does not look like my skid front shock on my LE mine adjusts from the top,at the dule small spring.

I have an SE, so it's just a regular shock, but does the job. So that amount of tension might not mean much on yours. I spent 150 miles on a 1 mile loop, 1 lap and it wod suck..lol...in the garage, another adjustment under the same conditions, and when I finally hit the combo, I made 5 laps smiling to make sure I wasn't dreaming! I'm done adjusting. My son rode it back Thursday night as we had awesome snow, now melting....he had the fuel light on the apex, and I can stretch it out....he now loves the sw too, so it's not just me.
I jump some deep moguls (field ditches) I have no business doing....figger it's a racin cat chassis, so let er rip!lol. Does really well.

 

[snowbeast]

I have an SE, so it's just a regular shock, but does the job. So that amount of tension might not mean much on yours. I spent 150 miles on a 1 mile loop, 1 lap and it wod suck..lol...in the garage, another adjustment under the same conditions, and when I finally hit the combo, I made 5 laps smiling to make sure I wasn't dreaming! I'm done adjusting. My son rode it back Thursday night as we had awesome snow, now melting....he had the fuel light on the apex, and I can stretch it out....he now loves the sw too, so it's not just me.
I jump some deep moguls (field ditches) I have no business doing....figger it's a racin cat chassis, so let er rip!lol. Does really well.

Yes that is the sled my son has,the LTX-SE and his rides good to,i was the first person to put miles on his last year,as I had already crashed mine.

 

[SumpBuster]

Well, we've had our share of excitement...son wound up in an ambulance when he hit me, but his leg took the brunt...no sled damage and wasn't broken but pretty bad, then I slipped on the truck bed liner and smashed my face into the ltx decal on the hood..lol...both times the cat came.away unscathed. ..9 lives?

 

[WVTurboLTX]

Remind me to stay away from you guys if we are in the same area. Ha ha.

 

[SumpBuster]

Remind me to stay away from you guys if we are in the same area. Ha ha.

Then I rolled the Skandic swt pulling the grromer drag, twice Friday night, once on the road cutting a road bank down. Only on its side though, with a car coming around a blind corner. Those things are tipsy and HEAVY! lol! Not the first time, but I git er dun!!Road banks suck!
Trails are beat but my back straight of the test track, and corridor trail are fine...lol