500 Mile Report and Suspension Setup

[Tyler Smith]

Any threads on the ltx-se rear suspension setup, I love the detail this went into but my shocks are a little different and I am not the best at adjusting my suspension but am perfectly able to do so with the right simple instruction or explanations. Any help would help. Currently the limiter strap is on 2 and the ski and skid shocks are all factory. i can't get it to turn and before people start telling me about different ski's I would like to try to get some better performance on trails with what I have now. I cant turn, it just just pushes straight through corners I have to get right off throttle and can't get on it again until I have come out of the corner... I like hitting corners hard and riding through them with throttle, only way I am keeping up with the boys is coming out of the corner putting it to the bar because it has the power to keep up that way but I would like some better performance out of the sled on trails before changing ski's and all that jaz because I believe there's some work that needs done!!! Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.

 

[snowdust]

Unfortunately what you describe is why people change the ski's. I went to pilots but found they were not aggressive enough. I added snowtrackers and am really happy with it now. They have snowtrackers for the tuner ski now so if you didn't want to change ski's that would be my vote.

 

[actionjack]

Try tightening the limiter strap one hole at a time.

 

[SumpBuster]

Take a big swing. Tighten the front skid shock a lot, and pull the straps up to hole 4
Shouldn't need 5. Make sure when you sit you have some sag. but not so much you hit the limiter blocks. Drive it under the same conditions and see...it'll either be a lot better, or a lot worse. If little change, it's the skis alone.
PS...All dual skag skis and runners push, some more than others. That's how they eliminate darting...you lose sensitivity.

 

[Winder_506]

and 3-3 is the 70 degree setting

3-3 is 60 degrees of wrap on the spring, 6-1 is 70 degrees. Add the numbers togather and multiply by 10, that's the amount of tension on the spring. I like mine at 6-1 or even 6-2 for lots of backshift.

 

[actionjack]

Any threads on the ltx-se rear suspension setup, I love the detail this went into but my shocks are a little different and I am not the best at adjusting my suspension but am perfectly able to do so with the right simple instruction or explanations. Any help would help. Currently the limiter strap is on 2 and the ski and skid shocks are all factory. i can't get it to turn and before people start telling me about different ski's I would like to try to get some better performance on trails with what I have now. I cant turn, it just just pushes straight through corners I have to get right off throttle and can't get on it again until I have come out of the corner... I like hitting corners hard and riding through them with throttle, only way I am keeping up with the boys is coming out of the corner putting it to the bar because it has the power to keep up that way but I would like some better performance out of the sled on trails before changing ski's and all that jaz because I believe there's some work that needs done!!! Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.

I think maybe the most important piece of advice in the OP‘s post is that he took a trip somewhere that he could ride a section of trail and make adjustments and then trail ride again to check the adjustments.

You described exactly my situation where I have been looking for more ski bite since the beginning. I think you are right to try to make the Tuners perform first but ultimately you might end up with new skis like most of us.

Read the manual to understand which adjustments create which effects and try them one at a time in small increments After you get ride height and sit in correct.

Increased ski pressure can be had by

- Increasing preload on front shocks - this will raise COG and increase body roll I believe so I wouldn’t start there but I might try adding a small amount of preload as my sled now corners so flat.


- Adjusting the pre-load on front skid spring also affects ski pressure. The manual states 1/8” to 1/4” preload is recommended and any more than that “may ruin the handling characteristics” I tried adding preload among other things before riding this past weekend and backed off due to ill handling. Add or remove a little (tighten or loosen) and test.

This is where to start IMO.

Adjusting the limiter straps shorter will increase ski pressure and slightly lessen the angle of attack of the track. Mine was on 2nd hole from longest and I moved it one hole to the middle hole by setting the front of the skid down on a paver to create slack. I believe this is what really improved my steering bite. Point and shoot, carry speed into corners, use brake less and have confidence my course will be corrected as expected when turning the bars. This sled corners very flat when set up well. And I still do not need power steering.

 

[snowbeast]

Just so anyone knows,if you increase spring preload on front skid coil over shock,that does not increase ski pressure,just the oppisate,and when preloaded it stiffens up the ride,alot. First try new set of skage,either shapers,which have a more aggressive wear bar,and longer set of carbides,or add snowtrackers,everyone talks highly of these,than if that don't work,you may need different skis,dont pull limiter straps down to tight just for increased ski pressure,as it destroys ride as well,that is why they call them limiter straps,they limit your shock travel!

 

[actionjack]

The point is Pete you gotta experiment to find what works for you. If you can't turn (I couldn't) pulling the straps will help (it did for me). Pretty sure Matt the OP wound up in middle hole (3) also. Ride is way better now that I can turn. I tried increasing pre-load on center shock and as reported it made things worse so I went back closer to dealer setting but still a little more pre-load than before.

 

[snowbeast]

The point is Pete you gotta experiment to find what works for you. If you can't turn (I couldn't) pulling the straps will help (it did for me). Pretty sure Matt the OP wound up in middle hole (3) also. Ride is way better now that I can turn. I tried increasing pre-load on center shock and as reported it made things worse so I went back closer to dealer setting but still a little more pre-load than before.

Yes,you are correct about the straps,doing what we know will work,and if it handles better than you can put up with the ride,and in some cases ride is not hurt a lot,but in most cases it can hurt the ride,but not as bad as preloading up that front skid coilover,man you preload up that sucker on the dule rate springs we have on the LE and it will kick the crap out of you. I think if I had ridden my sled with the stock skis,first thing after strap movement would have been front skis,preload some,but that is a bandaid for crappy skis too. So next move would have been carbides,like said,either shapers or snowtrackers,now I have never run trackers,but do have a friend who made up a set,and as long as you respect the crossing RR tracks you will be ok lol he forgot about the tracks one day,do they slow you down on top end? I would say yes,how much who knows!

 

[grubf]

I put Snowtrackers on my AC skis. Slowed it down 10 mph up top. Still didn't turn all the time. Snowtrackers not the answer.

 

[Ndoggct]

Great post with great info