Thanks for the help with ratcheting.

[tonykof]

Put a .75 track w/chisels to do some drag racing and since pretty much the only place I can ride here is on the Lake.. I have about .75 penitration w/276 chisels so the hookup is crazy. I got a chance to try it out today on the lake. I have my track VERY tight & it still ratchets. I already have anti-ratchet sprockets & the arms up front are not broken. It barely holds at 10lbs & at 12lbs it ratchets. When I had the suspension out I loosened up the front shock a little (about 1/4" from where it was) & tightented up the limiter straps so there is about 3/4" theads showing above the nut. I have the track so tight that it isn't even letting the transfer rods back to the starting postition. What I mean by that is when the sled is setting on the floor with no weight the transfer rod is starting to compress & the back of the track is off the ground.. Do I need to tighten my limiter straps more yet? I'm not real familier with the transfer rods, maybe I need to set them at the minimum transfer? Would that be so there is 4 lines showing above the top nut? I heard the stock suspension is bad for this but I know some of you guys have made it work running more boost than me!
Thanks
Tony

05 Warrior w/CRP turbo running 10-14 lbs
.80 head shim
Anti-ratchet drivers
Supertips
24/38 gearing
Track - .75 x 136" w/276 1.20 chisels (.75 penitration)

 

[guba-jr]

track

Tony tight the track more i run stock yamaha drives and didnt have problem!!!

 

[TurboJamie]

On my apex series sled my track is haning off the rails with internal drives and does not rachet. I don't have any rx1 experience so I can't say. Sounds like something isn't right. We just got finished fixing a mach z 1000 the drivers didn't line up and it was racheting. Maybe you twisted the drivers on the shaft? Or possibly when isntalled they are out of phase sometimes you need to flip one over to get the teeth to line up.

 

[tonykof]

Just checked the drivers out, they are in phase & seem to line up fine.
I tightened up my limiters so there is 1" of thread showing, seems to be a little better track angle but still plenty steep.. When the sled is sitting on the ground w/no weight on it the back of the track is off the ground like a Polaris with tip up rails, this doesn't seem right..

 

[Rx1M5]

Maybe you could post a few pics and somebody might spot something

 

[DC5]

Adjust the transfer rods to almost no gap up top. With that many studs you shouldn't need much transfer. The more the skid transfers the looser the track will get, especially at high speeds as the track will balloon. If you find the the sled will not hookup with minimum transfer try tightning the center shock.

 

[JD]

I had to move my M-10 up and back in the skid to get more contact on the drivers......I also switched to the doo drivers......working great

JD

 

[tonykof]

pics

Thanks for the input. I have to admit I'm a bit lost with the rear suspension on these sleds, I'm not necessarily saying it's bad, it's just different than I'm used to..
After I tightened up the limiters it does look much better. I didn't get a chance to try it yet. I will also adjust the transfer rods so there is less transfer, cause your right, the hookup is crazy with the chisels.
Thanks!
Tony
Here are some pics as Rx1M5 suggested.

Note: The sled is propped up in back on the last pic

 

[Ted Jannetty]

With a Yamaha Suspension you need to really suck up the limiters to prevent ratcheting.

you see in the last picture how the front of your rear suspension hangs down lower than the rear?

It should be flat with the ground when you lift it 1/2 off the floor.

Suck up the limiters and ratcheting will disappear.

You maintain more wrap around the drivers that way.

Ted

 

[KnappAttack]

Tony, Tighten the transfer rods so there is no gap on top. As it transfers it loosens the track as someone stated above. Tight track and tight transfer rod setting will get rid of ratcheting.

 

[woodsrider]

What we have done is drop and rolled the chain case (this allows more wrap on the sprocket) and changed to 10-tooth drivers (again gives more contact with sprockets). We run the tracks fairly loose (less rolling resistance) and have a lot of transfer to keep the skis out of the snow when climbing (less drag, steer by weight transfer side to side) Ratcheting is not a problem (unless you get your track too loose).

 

[tonykof]

Took the day off to do some testing on friday. I'll let you know how it goes on Sat!
Thanks again, you guys have been a big help!
Tony

 

[tonykof]

No Ratcheting!

Well, here's how it went....

Sled took off like a rocket with no ratcheting at 12lbs! I understand there was alot of "What the hell was that!" & other things things said when I took off... ha!

Unfortunately (seems odd to say it out loud) it snowed.... Alot! I waited till some of the sleds blew the start section down to ice but 100 feet down the run the fresh snow just kept getting deeper and more slippery till the end. So that & I believe the fact that the radar speeds were taken from a really, really bad angle did not produce the speeds I had hoped for... only a little over 100mph... (dreameter was around 130)
Thanks again for the help guys, I thought the sled worked good, conditions were just extremely poor..

BTW, I did still get top speed by about 15 mph. Next sled was a Mod Thunder Cat dragsled.... He wasn't very happy...

 

[Capt.Caveman]

Well what did you do to adjust the skid ???

 

[tonykof]

Well what did you do to adjust the skid ???

I did everything Ted, Mike, DC5, guba-jr & others said. Pulled the front of the skid up, tighten the gap on the transfer rods to near nothing & ran the track tight.
tk

ps. toward the end of the 1000 ft the track would still start to ratchet a little. I'm thinking either a AC Crossfire, Polaris or Expert-X for next year, just can't stand running my track this tight!