Thinking of getting a sr viper

[rosco]

I rode a 2006 Apex gt for 10 years and loved it. Recently been riding a polaris Axis 800.

Im considering getting back on a yamaha. Likely a 2015 to 2018 sr viper. I have a few questions.

1. What is the function of the chasis shock that some models have horizontaly at rear of the tunnel?

2. Is there certain yaers that are better than others?

3. What are the main concerns with this model?

4. Should I expect usual yamaha quality with this sled now that it is an Arcit cat chasis?

 

[ateick]

I have an '18 RTX for sale here in Ontario if you're ever interested. Low km's and a Yamaha replaced engine 1000km ago.

 

[Viper_Dean]

I rode a 2006 Apex gt for 10 years and loved it. Recently been riding a polaris Axis 800.

Im considering getting back on a yamaha. Likely a 2015 to 2018 sr viper. I have a few questions.

1. What is the function of the chasis shock that some models have horizontaly at rear of the tunnel?

2. Is there certain yaers that are better than others?

3. What are the main concerns with this model?

4. Should I expect usual yamaha quality with this sled now that it is an Arcit cat chasis?

1. The YPD is a shock meant to absorb chassis flex but I heard that it really does nothing. They tried to "innovate" but it really wasn't much.

2. I think 2014s suffered some initial quality issues from the factory but most probably have enough miles and time on them now that those bugs have been worked out. There was an updated flash in 2019, so you would want to ensure that the sled has completed that by a dealer. If you get the VIN you can call and they are able to search and verify. 2016 and later sleds have different rods in them which are not able to be turbocharged. Most people this doesn't matter.

3&4. The sled is overall great, reliable, and the engine gives fantastic performance. Corner to corner riding in the trails and ditches are a true blast once I had it dialed into my riding style. Riding position really allows you to ride hard if you input body movement. I have had to do quite a few "fixes" from the aftermarket to address known issues. Nothing has broke on me yet but I did it for security in my mind. Some of these include tri hub replacement in the rear. Sealed relays for ISC and fuel pump for cold starting, heavier front skid shock to lighten up steering, and clutch kit to smooth out engagement. Still would buy the sled over again, but most of the quality issues derive from the Arctic cat influence. Fasteners and stuff appear cheap which is AC parts. Engine and clutches are Yamaha which is good. Would recommend reading through the frequently asked questions at the top of the forum and joining the SR Viper owners group on facebook if you do buy. Great group of people that help almost instantly.

 

[rosco]

Thanks Dean. Im working my through the faq's.

 

[rosco]

So are you saying that the only sr viper turbo's will be 2017 and newer?

 

[InRBigness]

I have a 2016 with a 190 Hurricane turbo on it. No one has confirmed it but I think 2017 and on the rod issue was corrected. 14, 15's you can put almost as big a turbo as you wish on. My son has a 240 kit on his 14

 

[rosco]

Did your hurricane turbo kit include upgrading the rods?

 

[InRBigness]

Nope. 190 Kit has had nothing done to the engine. The 240 Kit has an intercooler, ARP head studs and a head shim. My 16 had a new motor put into it in 2020 from Yamaha due to a rod failure. It had the updated rods installed but it blew anyways. I got a crate motor from Yamaha and they said I would have no issues. I have put 12000km on the new motor.

 

[ZTRACING]

My first hand experience...
Two seasons ago, I went from a 2006 Apex GT to a 2014 SR Viper XTX (Long track) to get a more comfortable seating position and suspension. Those two things made it a worthwhile change for my bad lower back and old knees.

However...

RANT #1: If you loved the Apex mid-range/top-end performance and sound like I did, you will be VERY disappointed in the N/A SR Viper engine. It has no top end pull. It has awesome bottom end and midrange torque which makes it a GREAT trail sled corner to corner. It is just very disappointing on rail grades and lake running.

RANT #2: Starting issues suck on these things. ZERO excuse for this, read all the posts you can about this topic. My 2016 LTX (Just bought with 10K miles) starts like the Apex does, quick, fast and consistent. The 2014 XTX (3K miles when I bought it, 6K+ now) with new, fully charged good battery, takes a MINIMUM of two tries to keep running in cold or warm weather. Doesn't matter.

RANT #3: And this is my biggest complaint on this series of sled, they have the factory rev-limiter set so freakin low that you are always hitting it. Both my sleds do it. It's like these torque monsters are geared way too tall from the factory and just want to spin the track. It's easy to add more weight to the clutch arms so you stay below rev limit on top end blasts but mash the gas at 0-40mph and the track just spins and hits limiter.

Now that I have all that out of the way, I can say that these sleds are fun to ride. I have put 3200 miles on in two seasons riding with Cannondale in the U.P. and another buddy Allan in the L.P. Much more comfortable than my old Apex. The XTX is fun to wheelie with when it hooks being un-coupled. Once I installed SlimJim Dooly carbides to eliminate darting, I can ride one handed most of the time and is very easy to steer. The Fox Float3 shocks give a very comfortable ride when I lowered air pressure down to 50lbs in ski shocks and 100lbs on rear skid shock. I only have one very short ride on the 2016 since bought at end of this season so cannot say anything about the ride yet. It does have the QS3 shocks and once dialed in to me, it should be better than the 2014. I hope this helps you. Good luck with your decision and purchase!

 

[OneFast600]

I came off an Axys Pro-S 600 to a ZR 7000 (same thing). The ZR is warm to ride, torquey and enjoyable to ride. The Axys was way more fun to ride and the ride quality was better.

I think with a few upgrades and modifications to my ZR, I can make it fun like the Axys was. The power is there, it just needs to be harnessed better. Also, if you can find a model with higher end shocks, like QS3s, ride is greatly improved.

 

[rosco]

Thanks fast 600. Im noticing that I am now at a point that I am no longer using the polaris to its full potential so hopefuly it wont be a big downgrade.

 

[Viper_Dean]

My first hand experience...
Two seasons ago, I went from a 2006 Apex GT to a 2014 SR Viper XTX (Long track) to get a more comfortable seating position and suspension. Those two things made it a worthwhile change for my bad lower back and old knees.

However...

RANT #1: If you loved the Apex mid-range/top-end performance and sound like I did, you will be VERY disappointed in the N/A SR Viper engine. It has no top end pull. It has awesome bottom end and midrange torque which makes it a GREAT trail sled corner to corner. It is just very disappointing on rail grades and lake running.

RANT #2: Starting issues suck on these things. ZERO excuse for this, read all the posts you can about this topic. My 2016 LTX (Just bought with 10K miles) starts like the Apex does, quick, fast and consistent. The 2014 XTX (3K miles when I bought it, 6K+ now) with new, fully charged good battery, takes a MINIMUM of two tries to keep running in cold or warm weather. Doesn't matter.

RANT #3: And this is my biggest complaint on this series of sled, they have the factory rev-limiter set so freakin low that you are always hitting it. Both my sleds do it. It's like these torque monsters are geared way too tall from the factory and just want to spin the track. It's easy to add more weight to the clutch arms so you stay below rev limit on top end blasts but mash the gas at 0-40mph and the track just spins and hits limiter.

Now that I have all that out of the way, I can say that these sleds are fun to ride. I have put 3200 miles on in two seasons riding with Cannondale in the U.P. and another buddy Allan in the L.P. Much more comfortable than my old Apex. The XTX is fun to wheelie with when it hooks being un-coupled. Once I installed SlimJim Dooly carbides to eliminate darting, I can ride one handed most of the time and is very easy to steer. The Fox Float3 shocks give a very comfortable ride when I lowered air pressure down to 50lbs in ski shocks and 100lbs on rear skid shock. I only have one very short ride on the 2016 since bought at end of this season so cannot say anything about the ride yet. It does have the QS3 shocks and once dialed in to me, it should be better than the 2014. I hope this helps you. Good luck with your decision and purchase!

A couple of things to note here. A full clutch kit from Thunder products or stingray mods will eliminate the rev limiter issue. For the starting, you need to turn the key on, and not engage until you hear the fuel pump click off. Changing out the relays to roctoys sealed style has never left my 2014 with a starting issue. I've also found to not immediately shut the sled off after riding it hard, let it idle for a second or two and then shut off. Also always have the sled on a battery tender year round.

 

[OneFast600]

Thanks fast 600. Im noticing that I am now at a point that I am no longer using the polaris to its full potential so hopefuly it wont be a big downgrade.

At first you may think it’s a downgrade, but they are two different machines geared towards different riders. This suits the higher mileage days that I normally ride.

A couple of things to note here. A full clutch kit from Thunder products or stingray mods will eliminate the rev limiter issue. For the starting, you need to turn the key on, and not engage until you hear the fuel pump click off. Changing out the relays to roctoys sealed style has never left my 2014 with a starting issue. I've also found to not immediately shut the sled off after riding it hard, let it idle for a second or two and then shut off. Also always have the sled on a battery tender year round.

Mine also has starting issues. Usually takes two tries. I’ve tried all sorts of different ways to start it including the way you’ve mentioned. It’s also not happy during hot starts. To be fair, I don’t think I have the latest ECU update. I let everything with an engine I own idle for 20-30 seconds before shutting down. I cringe at those who shut off the engine immediately.

 

[ZTRACING]

A couple of things to note here. A full clutch kit from Thunder products or stingray mods will eliminate the rev limiter issue. For the starting, you need to turn the key on, and not engage until you hear the fuel pump click off. Changing out the relays to roctoys sealed style has never left my 2014 with a starting issue. I've also found to not immediately shut the sled off after riding it hard, let it idle for a second or two and then shut off. Also always have the sled on a battery tender year round.A full clutch kit from Thunder products or stingray mods will eliminate the rev limiter issue. For the starting, you need to turn the key on, and not engage until you hear the fuel pump click off. Changing out the relays to roctoys sealed style has never left my 2014 with a starting issue. I've also found to not immediately shut the sled off after riding it hard, let it idle for a second or two and then shut off. Also always have the sled on a battery tender year round.

Ref: A full clutch kit from Thunder products or stingray mods will eliminate the rev limiter issue.
I did install the full Thunder Products clutch kit, 911 cover and belt adjusters on pri and sec. The clutch kit made for a MUCH smoother and lower RPM engagement, better acceleration and more top end. (Went from 86 to 96mph) So am very happy and pleased with all of those gains. However, I added enough weight to limit RPM's down to 8500 but still could never keep it off the rev limiter when snapping throttle at or below say 40mph and then engine became a turd for performance.

REF: For the starting, you need to turn the key on, and not engage until you hear the fuel pump click off. Changing out the relays to roctoys sealed style has never left my 2014 with a starting issue. I've also found to not immediately shut the sled off after riding it hard, let it idle for a second or two and then shut off. Also always have the sled on a battery tender year round.
I have tried starting letting fuel pump cycle, not letting it cycle, cold, warm and it never starts on first crank unless we make a quick pit stop and leave pretty quick. It is consistently a two try startup. It has never not started so have never been stranded thankfully. It is always on a tender, just forgot to mention it.

I appreciate the ideas though Viper_Dean!

 

[rosco]

From what I have read, there was an ecu reflash released in 2019 to address cold start issues. Can any of confirm if you are still seeing difficult cold starts after that flash?