Took my 06 rage in for oil change. Had 549 miles. Took sled 1805 miles by trailer. rode 3 .5 miles had to get towed back. The oil filter didn't seat. They siad i lost 2 quarts of oil. The sled never quit running. Nor did any of the warning lights come. I couldn't move the sled cause of all the oil on the clutches & belt. I turned of the sled & got towed back by buddies on skidoos. They couldn't wait to pull me. Took it to the dealer. the tookk of both clutches & belt and cleaned them. When the took off the oil filter they noticed the seal on the oil filter. Put new filter on cleaned up the sled & said good to go. went about 10 miles tonight. started making clicking noise. Just when under power. you let off of the throttle it stopped Thought it was clutch noise that i have heard other members talking about. Then the noise was getting louder & more often. Noe it makes a noise when just idleing. LOaded back to the trailer. Going back to the dealer on monday. What do you think is the noise. Is it the clutch or is the motor rapping. 
Philscbx
Extreme
Very simple, Just about every doctor uses one. Or you can use what I call. a "listening stick".
Any piece of wood trim long enough to reach the engine while standing near it.
2-3 inches wide and maybe 3-4 feet long.
You can taper it to a pointed wedge from one end to the other.
Place flat side of trim to your ear, and scan the engine in a grid fashion. You can take a marker, and make a spot to recheck.
You can hear quite well every detail the stick touches.
Pace it on bearing holders, and listen for a failing bearing ahead of time. Example, your Alternator, Water Pumps, etc. The jackshaft would be a good start.
The long wedge shape allows the stick to reach in where fingers are not allowed while engines are running.
If you are very careful near moving objects, at least make sure it's a movement going downward.
150 HP at idle is enough to launch a spear if placed incorrectly. So I don't think we need to stress common sense in this group.
Or you can go to most automotive parts suppliers, and get a typical mechanics stethoscope. Fairly cheap.
Just a warning when using these, and it's possible to injure your hearing if probe is struck by moving object.
The sound is amplified by a diaphragm connected to probe.
So adjust the ear pieces prior to testing, to a LOOSE fit.
Now with oil pressure lost at oil filter, and primary goal was the crank next.
Hard Knocking matching RPM is I'm afraid a rod bearing.
Maybe there is no sensor for pressure.
Somebody better make this kit real quick.
The warning you would get, is low oil in the tank.
A $500 Honda generator can shut down with oil alert.
I'll walk than waste an engine.
It's very possible the clicking you hear at idle is the clutches now that they were super lubed.
I guess it depends how hard the 3.5 mile ride was done.
Rod, and crank bearings can be forgiving if caught in time.
I'd run it carefully at medium speed for few hours to max the mending process. Get another oil-filter, changing it in a few days. Open removed filter to examine for any metal.
Usual metal from gears and cam areas would be normal.
Rod and crank bearings are soft tin.
You also have the option to have oil analyzed.
So don't throw out this next oil change.
You may have gotten lucky, as well as the dealer.
Any piece of wood trim long enough to reach the engine while standing near it.
2-3 inches wide and maybe 3-4 feet long.
You can taper it to a pointed wedge from one end to the other.
Place flat side of trim to your ear, and scan the engine in a grid fashion. You can take a marker, and make a spot to recheck.
You can hear quite well every detail the stick touches.
Pace it on bearing holders, and listen for a failing bearing ahead of time. Example, your Alternator, Water Pumps, etc. The jackshaft would be a good start.
The long wedge shape allows the stick to reach in where fingers are not allowed while engines are running.
If you are very careful near moving objects, at least make sure it's a movement going downward.
150 HP at idle is enough to launch a spear if placed incorrectly. So I don't think we need to stress common sense in this group.
Or you can go to most automotive parts suppliers, and get a typical mechanics stethoscope. Fairly cheap.
Just a warning when using these, and it's possible to injure your hearing if probe is struck by moving object.
The sound is amplified by a diaphragm connected to probe.
So adjust the ear pieces prior to testing, to a LOOSE fit.
Now with oil pressure lost at oil filter, and primary goal was the crank next.
Hard Knocking matching RPM is I'm afraid a rod bearing.
Maybe there is no sensor for pressure.
Somebody better make this kit real quick.
The warning you would get, is low oil in the tank.
A $500 Honda generator can shut down with oil alert.
I'll walk than waste an engine.
It's very possible the clicking you hear at idle is the clutches now that they were super lubed.
I guess it depends how hard the 3.5 mile ride was done.
Rod, and crank bearings can be forgiving if caught in time.
I'd run it carefully at medium speed for few hours to max the mending process. Get another oil-filter, changing it in a few days. Open removed filter to examine for any metal.
Usual metal from gears and cam areas would be normal.
Rod and crank bearings are soft tin.
You also have the option to have oil analyzed.
So don't throw out this next oil change.
You may have gotten lucky, as well as the dealer.
Philscbx
Extreme
Didn't notice this one was a year old thread as well.
Wonder how this one turned out.
Wonder how this one turned out.
Nope didn't get lucky.Dealer said to run it and i did. for about 7 miles. then took out a piece of the motor 2 1/2 x 5 inches. connecting rod came thru back of motor took out battery. The bearing on the connecting rod seized. Then came thru the side. metal fragments all thru the motor down in the oil pump. it blew it all apart. under warranty. so he fixed it as it was his failure to not see the old oil filter gasket stayed on the motor. I now have a four year warrnty from him and a rebuilt motor. i have six hundred miles on the new motor.
They probaly didn't take the old or ing off where the filter goes and they put a new one on with the filter so there was two and that's why it was leaking qiute a few dealers have done this.
That is what happened. She ran great this year.
The dealer should be paying for it not Yamaha,lol
