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Too high RPM!

Norse

Pro
Joined
Jan 1, 2019
Messages
189
Location
Sápmi
Country
Norway
Snowmobile
2013 Arctic Cat M1100 HCR 162"
Boondocker turbo 250HP(sold)

2016 Yamaha SR Viper MTX LE 162"
MCXpress 270HP, lots of mods (sold)

2021 Arctic Cat M8000 Hardcore Alpha 155"
N/A (sold)

2023 Yamaha SW MTX LE 153"
M&M Racing 270HP, Elevate, lots of mods
Friend of mine has a Sidewinder BTX 2018 with 225HP, and some sort of clutch kit.
I just put a straight pipe in for the heck of it. Problem is, now it peaks at 10100 RPMs!
I'm no good with clutches, so I want a lesson on it.
Wondering if I can adjust the secondary spring angle and not touch the weights.

Also, he wants to install a cold air intake. How much does it affect HP and RPM?
I'm trying to mod it so he doesn't have to use premium fuel.

Thanks
 

Whose 225 HP tune? They should have told him what changes to make to clutching.
IMO NOT a good idea to put a straight pipe on it without knowing what that will do to AFR (air fuel ratio). It increased the air flow through the engine which seriously leaned the AFR down to danger point. Now, you're talking about making AR even leaner by putting a CAI on it? I think you're lucky it hasn't burnt down already just with straight pipe.
Whatever, you're not gonna be able to just do a secondary clutch change to get RPM down to 8800-8900.

IMO, first thing to do is to find out whose tune this is. Then find out from them what this tune was engineered for (what muffler, what BOV, what MAP, etc). Rarely would a 225 tune (or ANY 998 tune) be designed for a straight pipe. It's just not done. Until and unless you find out this info, put the stock muffler back on it before you burn it down. The straight pipe AND the CAI will both lean the AFR down, probably past the death point.
IF you can't find out whose tune it is, then start over. Decide what tune you want, then do the whole deal - ECU tune, clutching, CAI (IF that is called for in the tune selected).

BTW- for ALL 998s, the recommended fuel is premium (91 octane minimum)!!!!
 
Is the Tune set up for a straight pipe or CAI cuz if not, that's trouble.
And those "Some Sort of Clutch Kits" can be very tricky.

What Tune & what Clutch Kit?
Then the CLUTCHING GODS on TY will hear your prayers and rain their knowledge upon you.
 
Friend of mine has a Sidewinder BTX 2018 with 225HP, and some sort of clutch kit.
I just put a straight pipe in for the heck of it. Problem is, now it peaks at 10100 RPMs!
I'm no good with clutches, so I want a lesson on it.
Wondering if I can adjust the secondary spring angle and not touch the weights.

Also, he wants to install a cold air intake. How much does it affect HP and RPM?
I'm trying to mod it so he doesn't have to use premium fuel.

Thanks
I hope you didn't throw a straight pipe on a stock muffler tune.
I can't think of any vendors that have a 225 PERFORMANCE muffler tune?
 
Pick a tune, Hurricane, TD precision etc get the whole setup from one vendor and they will advise what works with their tune, clutching, pipe ,map sensor, etc. Let them set you up. Don’t blow it up, big money.
 
The tune is done by the shop, doesn't have a brand. Muffler wasn't stock, but a modified version. I've never seen an AFR problem with straight piped sleds, and I've been told it wouldn't be an issue.

IF the spark plugs tell me it's running lean I'll take a look at some remaps. But right now I want the clutching to work. I'll find out what kit is installed tomorrow. I'll leave out the CAI for now.

Yes the rev limiter was severely hit.

Don't worry it runs on 91 octane! "premium" is referred to as 93 octane where I live, and it's hard to come by.
 
IMG_20200427_10724.jpg
IMG_20200427_20353.jpg


Clutches seem to be stock with the Yamaha "8MA00" stamps. Helix looks like a Hurricane, but I couldn't find the angle numbers (checked everywhere but inside) but it has the number "1148" on the front.

Primary has a black spring, secondary has a white one tensioned at 0 out of 0-3-6-9.

Owner tells me the previous exhaust used to "gurgle" a lot, but not backfire. Straight pipe has fixed the gurgling noise.
 
The helix is a DALTON. Not sure what angle yet.
I think Black is stock primary spring.
"O" on the secondary brings some things into question. Need to know other hole #.
Checking the spark plugs is an "old school" method of checking AFR.
When it comes to this kind of power and this kind of EXPENSE, i think i would look into another way of checking the AFR.
 
Hurricane has a 225 stock muffler tune, you don't want to put a straight pipe or a mod muffler on it however. If you put the stock clutching in it, it should be bang on with the stock muffler.

Don't try to run a straight pipe on a stock muffler tune! It WILL not end well! I'd bet if you logged it, the boost is going crazy high and AF lean as can be.

Why would anyone even try a straight pipe on a small tune is beyond me.
 
And checking the plugs for AFR is TOO LATE!
Unless you like your plugs coated in Aluminum.....................as in melted piston coating
 
StevewithOCD what O? And what hole #?

Thing is, the owner IS old school. He doesn't want the fancy new displays that he can't understand. He wants more noise, and a little bit more punch.
I tried to talk him into getting a remap, but the cheapest alternative would be to have the current map adjusted, right?
 
The spring tang is in the "O" hole on the helix.
The other tang on the other side of the spring is in a hole with a # on it in the clutch itself.

FORGET the clutching for right now. Most importantly you NEED to find out what this "Tune" does.
1. where's the power
2. is it capable of exhaust mods or intake mods
3. does it control boost
4. does it adjust timing
5. does it add fuel
6. are "safety" measures added like knock protection
7. was it DYNO'd & tested

I think guys are staying away from this post right now because the "tune" is in question.
The tunes that are sold on the market are tested on dyno with not only power numbers, but AFR readings, boost, engine & exhaust temps.
Then they adjust the same tune for different exhausts &/or intakes and add protection for when things get to the edge.
Then & only then can clutching be achieved.

If it's only 225 hp then start with stock muffler & clutching.
My TD Ecotrail about 220ish hp ran the stock clutching around 9200 RPM's before i made minor changes to dial it in.
If you're still over-revving, then you're tune is either way more then you think or VERY DANGEROUS
 
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Dealer said current kit could be remapped, but cheapest would be a new map. They'll supply the weights and find a map that fits the straight pipe. My plan was to make this cheaper, as it obviously costs a lot more handing it over to the shop. Any cheaper suggestions?
 
Dealer said current kit could be remapped, but cheapest would be a new map. They'll supply the weights and find a map that fits the straight pipe. My plan was to make this cheaper, as it obviously costs a lot more handing it over to the shop. Any cheaper suggestions?
Give us more info please and guys could point you in the right direction and find you the cheapest alternative and proper set up
Are you in Norway?

Is the shop you're dealing with called
Ottos motor?
If so I believe he is a Hurricane performance dealer


What kind of cost are you looking at to reflash?


All you would need to do is ship the ecu to them to reflash and they will advise you what supporting part are required to properly set up the snowmobile

If you want information on the hurricane PERFORMANCE dealer in Norway let me know
 
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