thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I went to change the track this weekend (Ulmers how to was more than a lifesaver) and now I have a bunch of questions.
1. The bolt that holds the gears on the driveshaft is sheared off inside the driveshaft. It looks like its a grade 10 bolt... how have you been getting this out? I haven't tried a easy out. but I don't know if it will bite in a bolt that hard.
2. The o ring on the jack shaft that seals before the brake was in pieces... Wonder what caused that....
3. My brother said he changed the chain case oil for me this past spring and it was milky. When I drained the supposed new oil it was all milky again. This means I must have had lots of water in there... I wonder if that means the driveshaft bearing is leaking? They all seam to spin and feel great.
4. On the topic of bearings, the driveshaft/jackshaft bearings appear to be sealed expept for the jackshaft bearing on the chain case side. How often do you replace these? I have about 3k miles on the sled
5. One of the idler wheels in the rear suspenion is starting to become delaminated and two of them don't freespin very well. I gess I might as well replace all 6 of them. Has anyone figured out a solution to getting bigger wheels in there? I thought I read about skidoo wheels, but the bearings are too wide for the center two idlers.
This is the second time I've dropped the rear skid and each time I had to use an impact gun to take out the second bolt on the front mount for the rear suspension (the one right when ther foot hook is). I can't grab ahold of that center shaft to stop it from rotating(I can grab the rear shaft w ith channel locks). I turn the air pressure down as low as I can, but I can tell I'm slowing runing the bolt threads and threaded shaft inside. How do others take out that front bolt?
And a final note.... why can't yamaha make their secondary clutches open up with a tool like polaris does.. getting the belt off was probably the hardest part of taking the track out
1. The bolt that holds the gears on the driveshaft is sheared off inside the driveshaft. It looks like its a grade 10 bolt... how have you been getting this out? I haven't tried a easy out. but I don't know if it will bite in a bolt that hard.
2. The o ring on the jack shaft that seals before the brake was in pieces... Wonder what caused that....
3. My brother said he changed the chain case oil for me this past spring and it was milky. When I drained the supposed new oil it was all milky again. This means I must have had lots of water in there... I wonder if that means the driveshaft bearing is leaking? They all seam to spin and feel great.
4. On the topic of bearings, the driveshaft/jackshaft bearings appear to be sealed expept for the jackshaft bearing on the chain case side. How often do you replace these? I have about 3k miles on the sled
5. One of the idler wheels in the rear suspenion is starting to become delaminated and two of them don't freespin very well. I gess I might as well replace all 6 of them. Has anyone figured out a solution to getting bigger wheels in there? I thought I read about skidoo wheels, but the bearings are too wide for the center two idlers.
This is the second time I've dropped the rear skid and each time I had to use an impact gun to take out the second bolt on the front mount for the rear suspension (the one right when ther foot hook is). I can't grab ahold of that center shaft to stop it from rotating(I can grab the rear shaft w ith channel locks). I turn the air pressure down as low as I can, but I can tell I'm slowing runing the bolt threads and threaded shaft inside. How do others take out that front bolt?
And a final note.... why can't yamaha make their secondary clutches open up with a tool like polaris does.. getting the belt off was probably the hardest part of taking the track out
Zakre
TY 4 Stroke Guru
thetruck454 said:
Break the one side with the impact gun, tighten it back up do the other side and then it should come out, getting the belt of takes about 14 seconds. Just put on the parking break, turn secondary backwards and it opens up, to let the belt drop all the way to the centre then just pull it off the primary with all the extra slack.
If the oring is gone then i bet that helped get the moisture in there, The bolt you speak of is a gr 10, there is an updated bolt from yammie but people have been breaking them as well. Not sure what to suggest to get it out.
The snapped off bolt comes out easier than you think since it was not snapped off by loosening or tightening it. When I drilled mine out the drill spun the broke off threads to the bottom of the hole and I used a small screwdriver to spin it out. A LH drill bit would be the ticket.
northerndoc
Expert
I used an EZ out on mine when that bolt broke off. Since they typically aren't seized in there with rust or the like, they back right out with the EZout. Might want to heat it up with a torch a little bit to be sure (obviously have to take the driveshaft out of the sled). That o-ring sounds suspect for water intrusion, but double-check the driveshaft seals- that's the most likely place for enough water to get into the chaincase to turn the oil milky- they can get torn up by ice and sand fairly easily. May want to just replace them proactively if you have everything apart. Cheap insurance to save a chain and gears (big $$). I can't tell you how long the bearings "should" last- but if they've been run in milky oil... may want to change them too. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news... but you have to figure out where the water is getting in first.
ericms86
Newbie
I changed my track out about three weeks ago and I ran into the same problem with the bottom gear bolt being sheared. Drilled it out and used and easy out to remove it. That is probably the easiest way to extract it. Mine however took quiet a bit of force to get it to break free, but once it did it came right out. 
thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I was staring at the driveshaft bearing/seal, but honestly I'm clueless. It I see no big gashes or anything.
I like to describe myself as mechanically inclined, but with zero experience so I can tear something apart, but aside from seeings something in two pieces r bent, have no experience to base what I find on.
I think I'll replace the bearings on the driveshaft and the oring and hope it fixes the moisture.
I like to describe myself as mechanically inclined, but with zero experience so I can tear something apart, but aside from seeings something in two pieces r bent, have no experience to base what I find on.
I think I'll replace the bearings on the driveshaft and the oring and hope it fixes the moisture.
I know its a diff machine than the apex..
whats the chance the chaincase dipstick plug is plugged and the case pressurized and it pukes and draws at that seal?
whats the chance the chaincase dipstick plug is plugged and the case pressurized and it pukes and draws at that seal?
mytro
Expert
ericms86 said:I changed my track out about three weeks ago and I ran into the same problem with the bottom gear bolt being sheared. Drilled it out and used and easy out to remove it. That is probably the easiest way to extract it. Mine however took quiet a bit of force to get it to break free, but once it did it came right out.
I just changed my track last week and my lower bolt was fine, is it breaking when you put the impact gun on it? or is it broken when you open it up? How does everything stay in place?
ericms86
Newbie
It was broken when I pulled the cover off. The bolt goes through a spacer and a spring and then threads into the shaft the lower gear is on. The way the spacer sits inside the cover prevents the broken bolt from falling down into the chaincase. It's basically trapped with nowhere to go. The cover also applies pressure to the spacer and spring keeping everything intact. Hope that explains it ok.
thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
sj said:
You mean the rubber plug that faces towards the brake higher up, or where the dipstick is that faces outwards.... I didn't think to check that
thetruck454 said:
ya not sure on this machine...but it was an issue with the apex..
changing the seals and bearings sounds right...cant hurt to check this and also not to overfill the case..
1049triple
Expert
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And what did you do guys with the broken bolt? Do you install a better like an ARP or you just forget it and run it like that. I opened my Nytro chain case for the first time this fall, with over 6000km on the sled, and the bolt was broken like most of us, but there is not any sign of wear, so i dont know what it woth to put a new bolt. Just want your 2¢ on that.
I have yet to pull my chaincase cover on my 08. got over 8k on it so im assuming bolt is broken too. but i have had no problems if it is. did they upgrade the bolt in 09? as i picked up a 0 mile 09 FX nytro for this yr
thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
On more thing I remember as I was getting ready to put it all back together again. There is slop between the lower gear and the drive shaft. It's almost like the spline isn't perfectly tight. That normal?
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
The updated bolt from Yamaha is also slightly shorter than the original besides being fully threaded. It is 40mm vs 42mm. The proper fix is to put a 4.9-5mm spacer between the end of the drive shaft and the collar that the bolt goes through. When you have things apart it and do some measuring you can see why the spacer is needed. Yamaha changed things in 2010. Spacer dimensions are 19.9mm OD, 4.9-5mm long, with a hole in the middle that accomodates the 10mm bolt.
