track shaft bearings .

[bradthebest]

how many guys are finding the track shaft bearings grenade on there nytro's . mine finally went at 4000 kms on the clutch side . i noticed it when the speedo stopped working and it made a horrible grinding noise . i drove it home 30 kms like that because i had to .

i haven't explored the situation to much yet , but do you have to pull the shaft to replace the clutch side bearing ? im thinking i better do both aswell as the clutch shaft bearings .

im thinking the problem might be caused by water , and the fact that its not greasable .

track tension has always been in spec .

 

[radianguy]

I pull the seals and grease both bearings on the clutch side every season, last season I had a vibration and it was the bearing on the drive shaft. The grease was dried up so I replaced the bearing to be safe, not a big job, you don't have to pull the drive shaft to replace. There are set screws on the bearing, hex key, not allen key.

 

[APEX 06]

I pull the seals and grease both bearings on the clutch side every season, last season I had a vibration and it was the bearing on the drive shaft. The grease was dried up so I replaced the bearing to be safe, not a big job, you don't have to pull the drive shaft to replace. There are set screws on the bearing, hex key, not allen key.

X2, very easy to get 8000miles on them.

 

[Alatalo]

My experience is that a stock (non-greaseable) clutch side drive shaft bearing will last maximum two seasons. It is non-greasable, it is objected to snow, slush and water spray in the front of the tunnel and it also sits in a low position where it will constantly be wet or objected to high humidity.

The life of this bearing can be improved very much by the above mentioned re-greasing procedure. This is highly recommended, at least once a season, if possible twice a season. Otherwise, change this bearing every second season. A shot bearing can leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere. Even if it is still possible to rotate the drive shaft, a shot bearing usually takes out the speedometer sensor and then you will get the speedometer error code that triggers the TORS safety function within a mile of riding. Then your rpm will not go above clutch engagement...

This bearing can be changed if (and only if...!) the reverse gear bolt inside your chaincase is still intact (quite a few of them have been reported broken). This bolt "locks" the entire driveshaft to the chaincase. If this bolt is broken, I would not attempt to change the clutch side bearing as this could move the entire driveshaft sideways, possibly misaligning sprockets inside the chaincase.

If you are 100% sure your reverse gear bolt is intact, go for it. Removing all track tension makes it easier. Loosen the two bearing set screws found on the inner bearing race that sticks into the tunnel. Then remove the six bolts holding the bearing mounting plates together and remove bearing mounting plates and bearing. Assemble in the reversed order. Always lock the two set screws as a final step, with the sled standing on a flat surface.

 

[rlcofmn]

I always replace mine every year, It is cheap and I don't want to have a bearing fail in the back country.

As to the reverse bolt. The gear assy floats on the drive shaft, as long as you make sure the drive shaft is seated toward the chain case before tightening the two set screws on your bearing you will be fine. I just take a bock of wood and a hammer to the speedo gear bolt to make sure it's seated, but noticing where it was before with the old bearing is a good sign it did not come out as well.

 

[Alatalo]

There are set screws on the bearing, hex key, not allen key.

Actually, the set screws are Torx key, size T20.

 

[clatla]

So if there are set screws that hold the lower bearing on what holds the bearing on the jackshaft? Is it pressed on?

 

[Alatalo]

The upper bearing is pressed on to the secondary shaft (secured with circlip) and into a bearing holder (also secured with circlip). The bearing holder bolts to the cast chassis side.

The lower bearing slides on the drive shaft. It is clamped between two bearing holder plates that bolts to the cast chassis side. It is then locked to the drive shaft with the set screws.

 

[radianguy]

There are set screws on the bearing, hex key, not allen key.

Actually, the set screws are Torx key, size T20.

That's what I meant, thanks for clarifying, fighting of a flu so the cold medication might be responsible for that one, LOL

 

[bradthebest]

well got the bearing changed out it was easy enough . the original was a t-20 and the new one was a metric hex

now my rpm gauge reads 0 at idle , and then is erratic off idle . and i think the tors is kicking in but the speedo is working . and its throwing a code i will have to go count it . a friend was riding it so he didn't bother . the tors thing is really annoying , it liked to kick in when he was turning around causing the machine to get stuck . headlight relay also died , i obviously have to do something about the hundred pounds of snow the machine eats and stores under the hood .

 

[fiddlersgreen]

Man,,,, I'm getting worried now.... Have 9700 kms on the sled with the original bearing and never looked at it. Was hoping to do a track swap next season and do the bearings then but if its that easy I may do it now.

 

[snowgood]

aftermarket bearings

are there any aftermarket bearings that might be better more durable. would like to get the track spinning effortlessly while belt is off. thanks SG

 

[bradthebest]

Yamaha had an updated bearing to what i had . Its not a bad job i would do it

 

[kimoajaj]

If you have 9700km on the bearing I would replace it, it is not much work at all.

The lower left shroud must be removed, it makes it easier to work, then loosen the setscrews on the bearing-collar on the inside of the tunnel. Now loosen the 6 screws on the metal plates that holds the bearing. I think you have to remove the speedometer drive gear.
It can sometimes be a good idea to loosen the track tension to make the bearing easier to pull out but you should be able to remove it without loosening the track.

If the bearing is stuck you can try to pry on it or hammer on it with something from the inside.
Pull the bearing out and put on a new bearing.
Reinstall the puter metal plate and
Use Loctite 243 on the setscrews (not a must but recommended).
Remember to use correct torque on the bearing retaining bolts.

 

[stricklandj]

I just trying this and this maybe a stupid question but if you remove all 6 bolts what supports your drive shaft on this side? won't it just drop on this side?