Track tension - Post first ride

Here is what happened to me last year when I let my track get way too loose. As you can see in the attached pictures most all of the track lugs are damaged from rubbing hard on the tunnel protectors and the studs wore completely through my exhaust system.


Needless to say it was a very costly error on my part. Thankfully I was able to purchase a good used replacement track and a good used exhaust system from a couple of fellow TY members and I am going to keep a closer eye on my track tension from now on!
 

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Those pics are proof right there. I now run a 128" Ice-Ripper, so i no longer worry about hitting tunnel. I don't know about 136" track. Slower speeds from loose tracks are because of the "balooning" of the track making the paddles like sails. That's why 1" tracks are faster on top than 1 1/4" tracks. I put pressure on track with guage (used to measure elevator door force where i work) to 20 lbs. After 14,000 personal miles on Apex, I find stock settings to be correct. I used to run loose until Knapp & others explained why i shouldn't. Well i don't believe every thing i hear, so i experimented on dad's lake. The results were over-whelmingly obvious. I had no stud damage (when i had studs), my hyfax wear was the same & actually more even, my wheels stopped delamaninating from the extra slap of loose track. The big kicker was looking at heat exchanger with grooves in it. That's why i originally started freakin' out with track tension. In last 9,000 miles i haven't had one issue & my tracks seem to be in better shape also. Works for me so i'm sticking with it.
 


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