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Transfer blocks

#1 on stock block can easily be shaved 5 or 6 mm for what should be a good transfer. I am going to shave the Racewerx down to 7mm safely & alter others so i have wide range to choose from.
 

The rubber could get beat up more than the plastic. I'll post my results this weekend...
 
OCD, can you measure the stock rod on the flat side with blocks removed so we can compare apples to apples?
 
I wonder if the best option would be just to slot the hole on the rails the stock transfer rod bolts in and put the stock blocks back on. This would actually make the stock blocks functional again.
 
With the 2 sides repeating and reports that one could be machined a good 5-6mm smaller I think this is a no brainer. From there you would need to decide how tight you think that you could ever want it to couple. In other words is there a condition where you would ever use the tallest section? if not then you could take 6mm off the one face and also machine the others to make larger steps in between and potentially reduce so that the largest side matches present #2 or #3 or something like that.

The Racerwerx is intriguing because you can do on trail adjustments w/o tools but of course it is expensive and would require modification.
 
Guys shooting for top speed numbers will want the least amount of transfer.
 
Guys shooting for top speed numbers will want the least amount of transfer.
Are you saying less transfer is more speed? Would be more ski pressure wouldn't it be? Which Imo not what u want for top speed
 
Are you saying less transfer is more speed? Would be more ski pressure wouldn't it be? Which Imo not what u want for top speed[/QUOTEW
Well on my 129" I can't keep the front end down. It pulls the skiis at 125. You want the front as lowest possibly but not have carbides digging into ice. I'm not stock either. So I need full blocks or more.
 
Top speed is always achieved best with a lowered front end...so tight straps and less transfer is best for speed runs. The taller the front end sits and the more the track angle of attack is steeper, the slower it will go. Windshields are critical for top speed. If you cannot tuck behind it, then you need a larger one. Lowest possible window that you can get behind. I have a certain tuck I do under left handgrip(as long as you run a lake) and so the low window works well....

the 129 and 137 seem to be totally different animals in transfer, I only had a short demo ride on the 129 but could feel it more then the 137 I ride here.

I like alot of transfer for trail "fun factor" and good traction....
 
With the 2 sides repeating and reports that one could be machined a good 5-6mm smaller I think this is a no brainer.


My goal would be to move the rod back so position 1 on the stock block would be where it is with the block off, so there is no way to shave the block down enough to get that much transfer.
 
Top speed is always achieved best with a lowered front end...so tight straps and less transfer is best for speed runs. The taller the front end sits and the more the track angle of attack is steeper, the slower it will go. Windshields are critical for top speed. If you cannot tuck behind it, then you need a larger one. Lowest possible window that you can get behind. I have a certain tuck I do under left handgrip(as long as you run a lake) and so the low window works well....

the 129 and 137 seem to be totally different animals in transfer, I only had a short demo ride on the 129 but could feel it more then the 137 I ride here.

I like alot of transfer for trail "fun factor" and good traction....
Love my 129". Front end is actually lighter than my 16 cat by picking them up here in the shop. The weight says the same for both but the sidewinder weight is more in the middle. Feels about 20lbs lighter picking the sidewinder up in front vs cat turbo. And you notice it when coming over moguls and hitting the gas. Wheelies more like my old XP.
 


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