EJT
Newbie
I have my suspension out on my 06 Attak. I was looking at the transfer rod and the limitter strap and the look like they do the same thing. I wanted to know if they had to be in sink with each other to work properly,
If not what does each one do to effect the way the supension works. I weigh about 290 lbs with all my gear and I was looking to set up my suspension a litte better this year.
Thanks for any info and set up sugestions.
Erik
If not what does each one do to effect the way the supension works. I weigh about 290 lbs with all my gear and I was looking to set up my suspension a litte better this year.
Thanks for any info and set up sugestions.
Erik
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
LazyBastard will comment on your specific questions. Regarding setup, you check out the fourth image in this thread for proper set up for your weight. 
stoutner
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Ive never seen that chart before but looks pretty accurate based on my experience. Just as a fluke, mine is set up exactly as the chart states and works pretty good actually.
121" - 240lbs - clip position 3 - cam position 3. Which makes sense becaust my gear weighs about 20 lbs extra.
121" - 240lbs - clip position 3 - cam position 3. Which makes sense becaust my gear weighs about 20 lbs extra.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Sorry for the long wait, I like to be away on weekends.
What a strap does is not at all the same as what a control rod does. A strap is very simple - all it does is it limits the total distance that two parts can be apart - in this case, the absolute suspension drop out.
What a control rod does is controls the variation of the ANGLE of the suspension rails against the body of the vehicle. This is because there is a small range of movement in the control rod. At the opposite ends of the gap, the front and rear arms of the suspension move together - for example, support the weight of the sled by the rear of the suspension and the gap will close, at which point further compression at the back will ALSO compress the FRONT. This is called back-to-front coupling. This also works in the opposite direction - put the weight on the FRONT of the rails and the gap will open, after which point further compression at the front of the suspension will also cause the BACK to compress. This is called front-to-back coupling.
Now as for the strap and the control rods working together... not really. They are pretty much independent adjustments. The strap controls the total drop out distance, the control rod(s) control the angle.
Now by "not really", I do NOT mean *NO*. There are other variables that can be affected by an adjustment to one that can be controlled by an adjustment to the other. For example, letting the straps out all the way may lighten pressure on the skis since the sled will tend to ride higher. You can compensate for this by adjusting the transfer to angle the front of the sled towards the ground.
What a strap does is not at all the same as what a control rod does. A strap is very simple - all it does is it limits the total distance that two parts can be apart - in this case, the absolute suspension drop out.
What a control rod does is controls the variation of the ANGLE of the suspension rails against the body of the vehicle. This is because there is a small range of movement in the control rod. At the opposite ends of the gap, the front and rear arms of the suspension move together - for example, support the weight of the sled by the rear of the suspension and the gap will close, at which point further compression at the back will ALSO compress the FRONT. This is called back-to-front coupling. This also works in the opposite direction - put the weight on the FRONT of the rails and the gap will open, after which point further compression at the front of the suspension will also cause the BACK to compress. This is called front-to-back coupling.
Now as for the strap and the control rods working together... not really. They are pretty much independent adjustments. The strap controls the total drop out distance, the control rod(s) control the angle.
Now by "not really", I do NOT mean *NO*. There are other variables that can be affected by an adjustment to one that can be controlled by an adjustment to the other. For example, letting the straps out all the way may lighten pressure on the skis since the sled will tend to ride higher. You can compensate for this by adjusting the transfer to angle the front of the sled towards the ground.
EJT
Newbie
So If I uderstand this right,
If I were riding in powder I would want to let the limiter strap all the way out, so there is less pressure on the skis to get better flotation.
If I am riding on a groomed trail I would want to take the limmiter strap in so that there would be more ski pressure for better turning ability.
As for the back to front
and front to back coupling
how does this apply in the set up and do I move the rod out or in to get these settings.
sorry for all the ?s I went from a late 70s artic cat Jag to this and I have alot of learning to do.
Thanks
Erik
If I were riding in powder I would want to let the limiter strap all the way out, so there is less pressure on the skis to get better flotation.
If I am riding on a groomed trail I would want to take the limmiter strap in so that there would be more ski pressure for better turning ability.
As for the back to front
and front to back coupling
how does this apply in the set up and do I move the rod out or in to get these settings.
sorry for all the ?s I went from a late 70s artic cat Jag to this and I have alot of learning to do.
Thanks
Erik
stoutner
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Erik,
I would adjust your suspension just like it is shown in the chart. Probably leave the limiter strap stock and set the control rod somewhere near the middle. The most important thing if you have the monoshock is the "C" clip. Take your shock out, bring it to any place that does shock work such as a Monroe Muffler and have them move the "C" clip. It will take them 30 seconds and they probably won't even charge you.
As far as steering goes...you can play with rear suspension all day and your sled will still steer like crap. Yamaha skis are the absolute worst. You can argue all day about what ski is best...and frankly I don't know. Everyone with aftermarket skis will agree that the stock skis completely suck. I run the slydog skis and believe that it is the best $300 you can spend on an APEX or Attak.
I just got my new Sno Goer magazine and read the article about the new FX Nytro RTX. The article said that the steering sucked and the skis sucked. So, I guess Yamaha still hasn't addressed this issue...what a shame.
P.S. I did demo the Slydog Powder Hounds. These are for powder riding. I used them on groomed trails and they were great! I didin't ride in much powder but what little I did, they were way better than stock.
I would adjust your suspension just like it is shown in the chart. Probably leave the limiter strap stock and set the control rod somewhere near the middle. The most important thing if you have the monoshock is the "C" clip. Take your shock out, bring it to any place that does shock work such as a Monroe Muffler and have them move the "C" clip. It will take them 30 seconds and they probably won't even charge you.
As far as steering goes...you can play with rear suspension all day and your sled will still steer like crap. Yamaha skis are the absolute worst. You can argue all day about what ski is best...and frankly I don't know. Everyone with aftermarket skis will agree that the stock skis completely suck. I run the slydog skis and believe that it is the best $300 you can spend on an APEX or Attak.
I just got my new Sno Goer magazine and read the article about the new FX Nytro RTX. The article said that the steering sucked and the skis sucked. So, I guess Yamaha still hasn't addressed this issue...what a shame.
P.S. I did demo the Slydog Powder Hounds. These are for powder riding. I used them on groomed trails and they were great! I didin't ride in much powder but what little I did, they were way better than stock.
EJT
Newbie
Thanks for the info Stoutner, I did the clip last week. When I get knew skis should I also leave the shims on the rubber mounts or take them off.
Thanks,
Erik
Thanks,
Erik
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
EJT said:
Back-to-front coupling is the most noticeable. You adjust this with the big nut(s) on the control rod. Make the gap small = lower transfer (coupled sooner). The main effect of back-to-front coupling is for when you are on-the-throttle. This controls how much the skis will lift when you hit the throttle. If you like to come out of corners under power, then you want very little back-to-front coupling. The effect on steady throttle is negligible.
