TURBO ADDICTION PARTS NEWEST PRODUCT LOOK

[mulot30th]

Remember what I told you about solid mounts!

in a efi application?

 

[ProstockBenji]

Remember what I told you about solid mounts!

in a efi application?

In any application they are hard on the engine . Alot of guys use solid mounts in there 2 strokes also , I never have, and have never had a issue with getting full shift out on my clutches . I have always used billet motor plates with 90 durarometer rubber mounts with torque arms on the pto side of the cases "back and front" side of the motor for proper center to center . not to say solid doesnt work for many people , I would just prefer that piece of mind and so I dont have to check bolts regularly when they vibrate loose.

on another note , it would be pretty hard to try and fit a torque arm in a rx-1 chassis . its so fricken tight in there already .

 

[Ted Jannetty]

Remember what I told you about solid mounts!

in a efi application?

In any application they are hard on the engine . Alot of guys use solid mounts in there 2 strokes also , I never have, and have never had a issue with getting full shift out on my clutches . I have always used billet motor plates with 90 durarometer rubber mounts with torque arms on the pto side of the cases "back and front" side of the motor for proper center to center . not to say solid doesnt work for many people , I would just prefer that piece of mind and so I dont have to check bolts regularly when they vibrate loose.

on another note , it would be pretty hard to try and fit a torque arm in a rx-1 chassis . its so fricken tight in there already .

I fabricated a pretty slick torque link, but it still moved the motor back and bent the frame where the link was attatched.

I know about the possibility of foaming fuel and such but we are running solid mounts with no issues, I don't think the 4 stroke has the vibration issues the 2 strokes have, this thing is like a swiss watch at 10,500 rpm.

Plus the carbs are rubber mounted and supported by the intercooler.

As far as bolts loosening Loctite works wonders.

Ted.

 

[Thomas800]

I had apprehensions about using the solid mounts to start with. I have been there done that with the solid mounts in 2 strokes. I did have foaming problems and did eat a few pistons before going back to a higher durometer rubber. Like Ted said these 4 stroke motors are really smooth by comparison. We haven't had any vibration related issues with ours. One thing we did do a little different was that we only used the solid mounts in the rear, but left the stock rubber mounts in the front. The solid rear mounts took care of any alignment issues, and the front rubber mounts allow a little movement. Our concern was that as our chassis flexed, it could impart forces onto the crankcase (not good). I think it works very well in our car. That being said, ours isn't a sled chassis, although I do think using two solid mounts would work for you guys as well.

 

[ProstockBenji]

I guess if people are already using them with no troubles on the 4 strokes , who am I to argue ! One thing is true and that is , every application is not alike and what may be right for one engine may suck for another !!!

Ted , just curious if you are getting any handle bar rattling from the solid mounts ?

 

[KnappAttack]

I've seen cases break using solid mounts. Don't know how they will react in the fourstroke, but the V-max 4 firing at 180 will break. Surprisingly little vibration in the bars too. I think you're playing with fire. Rigid is really not good. The fastest snowmobiles in the world use rubber mounts. Sorry Ted, but I don't think this is the way to go.

 

[mulot30th]

Maybe 2 rigid rear and stock in front then?

 

[KnappAttack]

We use two limiter straps sandwiching the boss on the clutch side front mount, that are pre-tensioned on the open mod to hold alignment. The stock bulkhead is only die-cast alum and will bend and and/or break using solid mounts or a rigid limiter. You can do what you want, but with solid mounting to alum. its not a mater of if it will break, its a mater of when it will break. Solid is really not good, nor is it needed to hold alignment.

 

[ken_climb]

Well Teds header looks good! lol

 

[Ted Jannetty]

We use two limiter straps sandwiching the boss on the clutch side front mount, that are pre-tensioned on the open mod to hold alignment. The stock bulkhead is only die-cast alum and will bend and and/or break using solid mounts or a rigid limiter. You can do what you want, but with solid mounting to alum. its not a mater of if it will break, its a mater of when it will break. Solid is really not good, nor is it needed to hold alignment.

Hello Mike, I as well as the whole community do appreciate and respect your input, you bring a lot to the table.

I don't disagree, but on the other hand I have been running solid mounted engines for over 30 years and have yet to have a problem related to solid mounts.

This is an old argument that has been around for decades, In this case I beleive the benifits out weigh the risk.

Necessity is the mother of invention and sometimes you have to take chances to get a result.

Power will find the weak links then I will come up with a solution for that, it is what I do to keep moving forward.

 

[KnappAttack]

Ted, solid mount in a car on an iron block and a steel frame is not the same as a solid mount in a diecast alum. chassis and block. I wouldn't risk it as there are better solutions for the results you are trying to arive at without the chance of breakage . Think tensioned rubber straps!

 

[mulot30th]

What kind of rubber strap are you talking about Mike?

I can't see any rubber strap stout enough to retain a turbo engine from flexing the rubber mounts.

 

[KnappAttack]

Limiter strap material will do the trick quite nicely. Doubled up and sandwiching the alum boss on clutch side front mount, going to a turnbuckle to tension them is how we hold it on the Pro-Line open mod. The key is the clamping force when putting the bolt thru the rubber. You don't want to be using flimsy off the shelf washers. This allows the engine to have the cushion it needs but prevents clutch misalignment. Ever see the jackshaft flex? That is why I run 1.25" jackshafts too. I may have to quit giving up all my go fast secrets. I may want to get back into racing again someday.

 

[mulot30th]

For me it has nothing to do with racing... juste mountain riding with big boost.

 

[Thomas800]

Mike, is that to say that you machine out the driven for a 1.25" shaft, or did you step the shaft up right at the bearing end of the driven. We twisted a couple off from big deflection before we went to a 1.375" shaft, but we are still stepped down at the driven. Even stepped down there is still a lot less deflection.
Thanks