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Turbo guys

kodak

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Joined
Nov 25, 2010
Messages
579
Location
newfoundland,canada
Very close to pulling the trigger on a turbo but I have to travel along way to do most of my sledding so I need to make sure I won't need to be making constant changes or adjustments as I do not have time or tools on the road.Is there any problems in deep snow or powder looking to make one bad #*$&@ boondocker and wheelie machine not so concerned with top speed or racing thanks.
 

Once you are clutched it is pretty mutch plug and ply. Add gauges and watch your air fuel ration #'s may require a fuel controller adjustment depending on temp and humidity. Mine is a bit more finickier since I pushed it to 9 lbs. The rest is ride on.

I would sugest the 8dn belt upgrade several of us have had problems with belt blowing. My first one lasted 900 but I have blown 2 more since and the last did not make 400 miles.
 
Buy a stock cat turbo for warranty and reliability. Adding boost to a non boost sled generally causes issues. I know guys have had some good luck but turn key I would start with a factory turbo sled.
 
kodak said:
Very close to pulling the trigger on a turbo but I have to travel along way to do most of my sledding so I need to make sure I won't need to be making constant changes or adjustments as I do not have time or tools on the road.Is there any problems in deep snow or powder looking to make one bad #*$&@ boondocker and wheelie machine not so concerned with top speed or racing thanks.

There are some problems in the powder unless you get a MPI turbo with there cold air kit. With all the steam from the snow hitting the radiator it seams like it starves the sled for a sec from it breathing all that steam. The cold air kit goes either outside the side panel or lays on the belt guard, and with it being over there it does not suck in that steam. Other than that once you get her set, you won't need any tools. The fuel controller is used with your fingers, and you can adjust boost with a 10mm wrench. But once you get the boost right which is very easy, then you won't have to adjust anymore.
 
bottlerocket said:
Buy a stock cat turbo for warranty and reliability. Adding boost to a non boost sled generally causes issues. I know guys have had some good luck but turn key I would start with a factory turbo sled.

Cat turbo would be by far the cheapest bet but if you already own a viper then why not just boost the viper. The cat has way more potential for big power but there goes your reliability..it's pretty hit or miss with cat clutching. In my opinion the 1049 at 6 pounds of boost is more reliable than prolly a stock cat turbo
 
that was my thought since you already own the viper the new kits are way cheaper than what we paid for ours.

2 weeks ago I ran into a guy with a 2013 xf1100 turbo. He had all the upgrades and re-flashes and was at 300 hp. I was on my Pro R. I wanted to run mine against one of these since the motor build.

He told me he had just under 3000 miles on it with no problems. He had no gauges on it or fuel controler. he had a switch for 3 boost levels. We agreed that he would meet me later in the day back where my sled was in the trailer. His group left before mine.

We rode back to our shack and I was sitting around waiting when my one friend asked if we were ready to go back out I said I was waiting for him to show up. My buddy looked at me funny and said weren't you paying attention coming across the flowage, he was being towed by his buddy on a Ski-doo!!!

Seems all of these can have issues.
 
With a stock cat turbo, with no reflash it has really low compression. That's why the 1049 only needs 6 pounds of boost to make 180+HP. The cat is running a lot higher boost to get 180HP. So you can get more boost from the cat on pump gas, but you still have a low compression and still kind of a dog out of the hole, unless you have some work done to it. And it still has turbo lag, where as the Viper turbo has almost zero lag. A stock Viper, Nytro, Vector, will all smoke a stock 1100n/a. So the 1049 is starting with a better stock motor, so with boost it's just that much better. Yes you can get mods for the cat and have pretty close to the same amount of money as the Viper with a turbo. But I think the Viper would be faster. Either one has the option to get 240+ HP. But with the Viper your starting with a better motor. Cat turbo is heavier that a Viper with a turbo.
 
YamahaTim said:
With a stock cat turbo, it has really low compression. That's why the 1049 only needs 6 pounds of boost to make 180+HP. The cat is running a lot higher boost to get 180HP. So you can get more boost from the cat on pump gas, but you still have a low compression and still kind of a dog out of the hole, unless you have some work done to it. And it still has turbo lag, where as the Viper turbo has almost zero lag. A stock Viper, Nytro, Vector, will all smoke a stock 1100n/a. So the 1049 is starting with a better stock motor, so with boost it's just that much better. Yes you can get mods for the cat and have pretty close to the same amount of money as the Viper with a turbo. But I think the Viper would be faster. Either one has the option to get 240+ HP. But with the Viper your starting with a better motor. Cat turbo is heavier that a Viper with a turbo.

X 2

Dealer gave our group a 141 [?] Cat Turbo for a weekend as some of the guys were interested in ordering Vipers and they were sold out of Vipers to test ride.

I would have to say the throttle response of the Cat is the worst of any sled I have ever driven.

Seating position good, suspension good, darting awful, Ergo's good, Handwarmers 2 position very old school, heated seat kinda nice; Motor & clutching awful. Oh yeah, it blew a belt of course. Dealer sent us out with 3.

There will not be any Cat Turbos ordered in our group.
 
Sorry to hijack the thread but I'm gonna be putting money down on a turbo this week. Going with the original mpi kit with inner cooler and quiet muffler. I know I'm getting a very reasonable price on the kit, my question is, between boost and afr gauges and whatever else may need to be bought, roughly how much added cost am I looking at on top of the kit itself? I'll more than likely get setup with the 8dn belt and won't have a problem getting clutching dialed in. More the less looking for a rough idea on what the added costs are going to be so I know what to plan for
 
Boost gauges are about 60 to 80 and afr can be had (AEM) low $200's. Should be all you need short of clutching

Oh yeah and bigger helmet to fit the grin :Rockon:
 
Yamadog said:
Boost gauges are about 60 to 80 and afr can be had (AEM) low $200's. Should be all you need short of clutching

Oh yeah and bigger helmet to fit the grin :Rockon:

Good to know! My helmet has been acting up all year and this past Sunday one of my hinges broke off so that made for an interesting ride with a floppy shield..I'll be sure to talk the bigger helmet advice into consideration when I buy a new one lol
 
When does the MPI/Hurricane spring sale end?

Thanks
 


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