Turbo Nytro Trouble

[osmond.mark]

I have a 2010 nytro running a powderlites kit. I am having trouble with it and cannot get it figured out. After about 30 mins riding, from idle to say 1/4 throttle the sled is cutting in and out. It is almost like if you were turning the key on and off while driving. If you find that spot in the throttle range you can almost get the sled to die down enough to stall. On the other side, if you keep the rpms up, (6000ish+) the sled runs excellent and pulls strong. You would never know there was anything wrong until you slow down enough to get the rpms down again. This only happens after riding for a while, seems like if I leave the sled overnight to cool down, its good to go for about 30 mins.

I have tried diableing the tors and cleaning rb3 connector. Fuel presure is around 50psi, sea level running 10 psi on 91 octane.

Can anyone help me, I have no idea where to try next and trying to get this straightened out for a big upcoming trip.

Thanks!

 

[rxrider]

It may be a lean spot in Your map that causes the AFR to skyrocket in to lean Territory.
Do you have an AFR meter? What does it read when the problem is present?
Does it pop or make any noises out of the ordinary?
Or does is it like the ignition is turned on and off?
Could also be an ignition problem, spark plugs are cutting at low RPMs when electrical Power is lower?

 

[Accentstripe1]

I used to have a Powderlites kit on my Nytro and had similar issues. You might want to call Dave at hurricane performance. After talking to him and having my sled at his shop, found out that I my fuel was "boiling" and updated my fuel rail.

 

[osmond.mark]

I don't have an Afr gauge. I'm not sure how quick a fuel issue would act, but this is instant. It's like your turning the key on and off.

I also find if you work the throttle instead of cruising at a steady throttle you don't find it the same. At a steady throttle its on, off, on, off, etc.

I have been talking to Dave at Powderlites but it's hard to trouble shoot over the phone as well. I am on the opposite side of Canada so getting the sled to him isn't an option unfortionatly.

 

[Accentstripe1]

As rxrider, I would personally get an af gauge. They can tell you a lot about what's going on with your sled. What type of fpr are you using? What is your setting at? Also, I know awhile ago Dave suggested tapping a boost line from your boost pipe to your fpr to help with stumbling.

 

[mbarryracing]

What are you running for a programmer / fuel manager? RB3?

 

[osmond.mark]

I do need an Afr gauge. I was hoping to get the sled running good before spending any more money on it, but if I need one I may have to look into ordering one. I am not sure which fpr I am using, it's the red one that Powderlites use with their kits I am asuming.

Yep rb3. I have cleaned the connector spotless.

 

[mbarryracing]

I'm pretty sure you have an electrical issue and not a fuel issue, electrical resistance goes up with temperature so makes sense that after it runs and gets warm it starts to cut out. Fuel wouldn't cut off like a switch, less instant and would more burble and sputter before stalling.
Could be a stator going bad, or you have a internally bad RB3 box itself. I remember posts on here a few seasons back with guys having RB3 boxes stop working on their Nytro's when they got hot. Had to let them sit and cool.
If it's throttle position sensitive, maybe the TPS is flakey at lower positions when it gets hot? Also I think the RB3 uses TPS signal too. Atleast somewhere to start looking.

 

[osmond.mark]

It seems as if it's electrical, like you say seems to quick to be fuel but im not 100% sure. I removed the plastics (because there is just not enough room to get at the connectors for the RB3, unless I remove the trail tank) I also put the ground in a better spot for the RB3. I then took it for a ride to get it to act up. I then had planned to dissconect the RB3 to see if anything changed. I am not sure if because I had the plastics off something never got hot enough or if it was where I changed the ground. I will have to put it all together in the next day or two and try and see if I can get it to act up with all the plastics keeping the heat in. If I can I will have to try dissconecting the RB3 then, and also remove the plastics and see if the problem goes away. I will keep this updated.

 

[rxrider]

Mbarryracing - Makes sense, I'm sure Your take on it is the most likely

Mark - Like computers Electronic Equipment may malfunction when overheated.
If it turns out that it starts acting up again With all plastic panels installed you may have to move the RB3.

 

[fast n furious]

I had the same issue on my previous nytro with same set up, fuel boil was the problem. need to make fuel rail modification and bet you will be okay. also had to delete the head light and open it up or it would run hot

 

[osmond.mark]

We had a ton of rain so testing for me is out until we get more snow. (Fingers crossed we get more that is!)

What did you change to keep the fuel from getting to hot?

I have moved the rb3 and tried it again a couple days ago with all plastics on but it didn't act up but not enough snow now to do more testing.

 

[fast n furious]

hurricane performance has a fitting that allows fuel to flow through rail and not dead head, keeps fuel cool.

 

[rxrider]

A fuel Return that is.
The Apex has a fuel Return at the end of the rail where fuel flows back to the tank.
Makes sence ;

 

[osmond.mark]

There is a return system on this sled? It comes from tank to fuel pump, to rail, to fuel pressure reg, back to tank. Is this correct? By the way it sounds I already have the fitting you are talking about.