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Valve check?


Here goes. Set all the timing marks where they need to be. Remove the lower bolt of the exhaust sprocket. I used a 3' long 1/8x 1" flat bar from Tractor Supply. wedged it against the tensioner, and rested it against the sprocket bolt of the Intake cam. I then put side pressure on the flat bar, to insure it wouldn't slip off. Used some zip ties and vice grips to hold everything. Put zip ties on front sprocket and chain to hold it in place. Used a ratchet strap from the top of the flat bar to the front bumper with minimal tension, just to hold it from moving. Unbolted the sprocket, zip tied it to the chain, removed the cam, reshimmed. Once you get to this point, assemble everything, you're done. I would estimate about 3 hours total.

I take you had to remove the lower cam sprocket bolt before rolling it to TDC?? You also gave me a idea that might work out real well. I wont be checking the valves for a month or two but when I do I am going to see if I can machine up a bracket to hold both cam sprockets in place so they are solid mounted. If it works out you guys will know about it with pics.
 
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yes remove it first. The problem with holding both sprockets together, is that you have to remove the exhaust one to remove the cam
And if I remember right the sprocket is on a shoulder of cam so to remove cam even with both bolts removed you have to move the sprocket enough to get over that shoulder. Might be a way around that if a fixture was made with pins to hold the sprockets allowing sideways movement but no rotation. We have all summer to improve on this. Definitely worth the effort. Is great there is methods to do this though! Thank you guys for thinking outside the box!
 
Yes Cannondale, that's what I was thinking, but you said it better. The cam cannot move backwards or forward at all. There is a shoulder there. Fired mine up tonight, runs great. Everything here is an evolution in motion. One good idea spawns many others. I wouldn't even have checked my clearances till 18 to 20 thousand, if I didn't read this thread. That would have turned out badly. My Suzuki 1100 valves in my earlier Cats tightened up real tight by 5,000 miles. You gotta love mechanical challenges.
 
And if I remember right the sprocket is on a shoulder of cam so to remove cam even with both bolts removed you have to move the sprocket enough to get over that shoulder. Might be a way around that if a fixture was made with pins to hold the sprockets allowing sideways movement but no rotation. We have all summer to improve on this. Definitely worth the effort. Is great there is methods to do this though! Thank you guys for thinking outside the box!

I thought about this half the day and thought about using pins. I agree the sprocket needs to be able to rotate to remove the cam and at the same time keep chain tension and location stationary for cam timing. After looking at all the pics in this thread and the Cat video on adjusting valves I think I may have a solution. Now I just need to get some room in the garage and time to tear it apart. Then put my idea on the mill and start machining. I am sure it will take a few attempts to get it right if all goes as planned. But we all no how plans can go sideways in a hurry as well.
 
Just thought I would share that another one is out of spec way too early. I am at 6500 miles and have been having issues with backfires on and off for the last three seasons. The dealer looked at it two times under warranty and could not find anything wrong. I had the gas tank off to fix a leaking coolant hose and decided to pull the valve cover and check my valve clearance and believe I have found the culprit. I bought my 2014 as a non current so my warranty did not expire until this spring. I talked to the dealer and they agreed to make a claim for me even though it was out of warranty by a couple of weeks and they said valve adjustments are not covered as they are considered maintenance. I argued that they have documentation of trying to fix a running problem with no results and while I agree valve adjustments are maintenance the manual does not suggest even checking it until 25K so it is a defect not regular maintenance. They made the claim and to both of our surprise Yamaha agreed to cover it so I will be getting a valve adjustment on the house. I was starting to lose faith in Yamaha and have been really disappointed with this motor with the backfiring and both cold and hot start issues but am hopeful that this will no longer be an issue. I appreciate all the info on this site as I would have never considered checking this or even had the confidence to do it without this write up.
 

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That’s great! I would like someone to explain why #5E is often the smallest stock shim and the best valve clearance. This tells me 2 things. Factory is messing up valve clearance and they should be fixing it or at least checking all.
 
Maybe I missed it in the 17 pages of this post but, can someone put a link to the valve check and adjustment video in this post?
 
I might have confused the mention of the video with this thread and it is actually in another thread. There is supposed to be a YouTube video from A.C. for checking and adjusting the valves on a Cat 7000 which is the Yamaha 1049 motor that we have in our Vipers.
 


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