Valve check?

[cannondale27]

Add another one to the list. 2017 with around 3800 miles. Has ran like crap since last flash. Dealer called today two exhaust valves tight and rest out of spec. I have no other specifics cause this valve thing is all Chinese to me. He said they would put in a claim (gonna test that yes warranty again). Have had good luck to this point so fingers crossed. From reading this thread I would have to guess it was this way from factory right? I mean only 3800 mi? But why would latest flash expose problem?

Latest flash is a bit leaner in spots is my guess.

 

[Phazer2Viper]

Add another one to the list. 2017 with around 3800 miles. Has ran like crap since last flash. Dealer called today two exhaust valves tight and rest out of spec. I have no other specifics cause this valve thing is all Chinese to me. He said they would put in a claim (gonna test that yes warranty again). Have had good luck to this point so fingers crossed. From reading this thread I would have to guess it was this way from factory right? I mean only 3800 mi? But why would latest flash expose problem?

they covered mine when i was just out of warranty so you shouldnt have a problem. Warranty paid for itself after the adjustment.

 

[captainruss99]

16 Cat 7000 with 6,200 miles. No symptoms, got scared, just checking after reading all these posts. Pto side to mag: .0075, .0085, .007, .0085, .0085, .008. Going to re-shim to maximum spec, using the Lighthouse "tie up the sprocket" method.

 

[PAvector]

I would zip tie the chain to the sprocket 2 per cam, there will be lobe pressure always fighting you. Plug/cover oil return holes before pulling the buckets.

 

[Snorunner]

I would zip tie the chain to the sprocket 2 per cam, there will be lobe pressure always fighting you. Plug/cover oil return holes before pulling the buckets.

Sounds like good advice!

 

[captainruss99]

Thanks for the tip

 

[4strokes]

you may want to consider my method of a wedge between chain chain loops at the tensioner, holding the tensioner back, otherwise, one click on the tensioner and youre done

 

[captainruss99]

I used a lever to hold tension on the tensioner, didn't have to tie it up like the Lighthouse deal, much easier, fool proof.

 

[cannondale27]

I used a lever to hold tension on the tensioner, didn't have to tie it up like the Lighthouse deal, much easier, fool proof.

Can you guys post a pic of what you used. Sure would be a timesaver.

 

[captainruss99]

I'm going to try to post some over the weekend I can do engine work, but computer stuff pains me. It was a huge time saver.

 

[cannondale27]

I'm going to try to post some over the weekend I can do engine work, but computer stuff pains me. It was a huge time saver.

It sure would be. Thinking mine might need it again. Will be checking for sure soon. Thanks

 

[captainruss99]

Here goes. Set all the timing marks where they need to be. Remove the lower bolt of the exhaust sprocket. I used a 3' long 1/8x 1" flat bar from Tractor Supply. wedged it against the tensioner, and rested it against the sprocket bolt of the Intake cam. I then put side pressure on the flat bar, to insure it wouldn't slip off. Used some zip ties and vice grips to hold everything. Put zip ties on front sprocket and chain to hold it in place. Used a ratchet strap from the top of the flat bar to the front bumper with minimal tension, just to hold it from moving. Unbolted the sprocket, zip tied it to the chain, removed the cam, reshimmed. Once you get to this point, assemble everything, you're done. I would estimate about 3 hours total.

 

[cannondale27]

Here goes. Set all the timing marks where they need to be. Remove the lower bolt of the exhaust sprocket. I used a 3' long 1/8x 1" flat bar from Tractor Supply. wedged it against the tensioner, and rested it against the sprocket bolt of the Intake cam. I then put side pressure on the flat bar, to insure it wouldn't slip off. Used some zip ties and vice grips to hold everything. Put zip ties on front sprocket and chain to hold it in place. Used a ratchet strap from the top of the flat bar to the front bumper with minimal tension, just to hold it from moving. Unbolted the sprocket, zip tied it to the chain, removed the cam, reshimmed. Once you get to this point, assemble everything, you're done. I would estimate about 3 hours total.

Thank You! Still looks risky to me but thats for sure a huge timesaver. Worth it. I am going to get a measurement of chain tension before removal so I can compare it after using a method like you did. I just am not sure I would hear the click and surely dont want to take out guides from chain too tight.

 

[captainruss99]

Just enough pressure to hold it where it is. If anything did go wrong, you would then have to remove the tensioner, and re-set it, just like you did before. I read all the posts up to this point, boy, that's a lot of work. The Lighthouse method has a lot more risk. I've been an auto tech for 44 years, am a regular on ArcticChat, always ridden with Yamaha guys, but have been looking around here since they teamed up.

 

[cannondale27]

Just enough pressure to hold it where it is. If anything did go wrong, you would then have to remove the tensioner, and re-set it, just like you did before. I read all the posts up to this point, boy, that's a lot of work. The Lighthouse method has a lot more risk. I've been an auto tech for 44 years, am a regular on ArcticChat, always ridden with Yamaha guys, but have been looking around here since they teamed up.

Yes your method looks to me to be much more secure. I will give it a try for sure. Regular method sure sucked. Thank you!